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Unread 03-05-2014, 11:41 AM   #46
hp_lovecraft
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Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
My new procedure is to just tap the throttle enough to set the choke and turn over engine. It starts all by itself just before the oil pressure builds. No throttle pumping.
That used to be my procedure, but now I'll push the pedel to the floor, then start with throttle 1/2 way.

The reason is that the choke will rarely stick shut when cold. If I drive like that, it eventually fouls the engine, and I'll need to clean the plugs. Flooring the throttle forcing the choke to open slightly, and unsticks it as well.

Otherwise, I have no trouble, even below zero, as long as the choke is set right, and working correctly. I have a climatic choke, and adjust it every spring, and fall.

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Unread 03-05-2014, 02:27 PM   #47
mb_24
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It's funny. I almost have to relearn how to start a car. Been 20 yrs since I started anything with a carb that wasn't a lawn mower or a dirt bike.

It used to be two pumps and then a 1/2. She doesn't like that.

Then again, what woman does😜

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Unread 03-05-2014, 02:58 PM   #48
243
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I sold my Big Bear 400 4x4, when I buy a replacement it will be FI, and I won't yank it off to bolt on a Mikuni

Same with a motorcycle, FI all the way.

Lawnmower, if I have the option.
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Unread 03-06-2014, 04:05 AM   #49
John Strenk
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Originally Posted by 243 View Post
I sold my Big Bear 400 4x4, when I buy a replacement it will be FI, and I won't yank it off to bolt on a Mikuni

Same with a motorcycle, FI all the way.

Lawnmower, if I have the option.
Get a John Deer Diesel. Direct injection.


Or a JY TBI
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,8677.0.html

Or bolt on:
http://www.ecotrons.com/products/sma...injection_kit/


Come to think of it my RC airplane is Supercharged and Fuel injected.
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/13106
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Unread 03-06-2014, 02:08 PM   #50
243
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Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Get a John Deer Diesel. Direct injection.


Or a JY TBI
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,8677.0.html

Or bolt on:
http://www.ecotrons.com/products/sma...injection_kit/


Come to think of it my RC airplane is Supercharged and Fuel injected.
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/13106

Thanks for the links John, very cool information
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Unread 03-09-2014, 07:45 AM   #51
McCalljeeper
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84 cj, 4 cyl

In my rig, you pump the throttle pedal 3 times, fire it up, don't touch the pedal until high idle has finished. Then it's warm and ready to go. If you touch the pedal before it's warm, the high idle position on the carb linkage disengages. Jeff
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Unread 03-14-2014, 08:18 PM   #52
Pacfanweb
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Originally Posted by McCalljeeper View Post
In my rig, you pump the throttle pedal 3 times, fire it up, don't touch the pedal until high idle has finished. Then it's warm and ready to go. If you touch the pedal before it's warm, the high idle position on the carb linkage disengages. Jeff
Pretty much this. This is how you drive any vehicle in the cold. I don't start my Suburban up when it's cold and just drive off.....I COULD, but I don't.

Same with my CJ when it was stock. I COULD start it up and drive right off....but you don't do that to your motor.

but...if yours won't run right when it's cold, then it's not right.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 09:33 PM   #53
243
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Pretty much this. This is how you drive any vehicle in the cold. I don't start my Suburban up when it's cold and just drive off.....I COULD, but I don't.

Same with my CJ when it was stock. I COULD start it up and drive right off....but you don't do that to your motor.

but...if yours won't run right when it's cold, then it's not right.

I sure do, fire it up and start driving, but it's two miles out of the neighborhood and about five to the highway, easy enough to keep the rpm's down around 1200.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 10:30 PM   #54
SouthernGypsy
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Originally Posted by McCalljeeper View Post
In my rig, you pump the throttle pedal 3 times, fire it up, don't touch the pedal until high idle has finished. Then it's warm and ready to go. If you touch the pedal before it's warm, the high idle position on the carb linkage disengages. Jeff

It shouldn't work that way. The fast idle should come off in steps. A single 3/4 down press of the pedal should set the fast idle, a second 1/2 down pump should give you some extra fuel to start on sub-freezing days. The start step (about 2200 RPM) which a tap of the accelerator after starting will immediately release to the second step (1800 RPM) which is your regular cold fast idle, at that point you should be able to drive immediately. Once it has warmed up just a little it should then step down to the final step of the fast idle (1200 RPM) which it will run at for a bit before finally coming completely off of the fast idle (choke no longer in control) and now be on normal idle (800 RPM). If it's working correctly it wont come all off at once just because you touched the pedal and you should not have to "feather" it or anything like that to get it to run smoothly when cold.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 03:41 AM   #55
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by SouthernGypsy View Post

It shouldn't work that way. The fast idle should come off in steps. A single 3/4 down press of the pedal should set the fast idle, a second 1/2 down pump should give you some extra fuel to start on sub-freezing days. The start step (about 2200 RPM) which a tap of the accelerator after starting will immediately release to the second step (1800 RPM) which is your regular cold fast idle, at that point you should be able to drive immediately. Once it has warmed up just a little it should then step down to the final step of the fast idle (1200 RPM) which it will run at for a bit before finally coming completely off of the fast idle (choke no longer in control) and now be on normal idle (800 RPM). If it's working correctly it wont come all off at once just because you touched the pedal and you should not have to "feather" it or anything like that to get it to run smoothly when cold.
Your engine must just scream at you running high rpm like that when cold! Wow, 2200 rpm on an ice cold engine....

Mine is bad enough at the correct fast idle of 1850 rpm. My second step is a nice 1200 rpm and my idle is a smooth 700 or so.

I also live in the real cold and several pumps are needed to prime it when in sub 0 temps. That is where the stock timer choke fails me. It comes off too soon so I didn't always get the second step. I had to do it like the other poster, leave my foot off until I had heat or I was 3 foot driving it. I went manual choke.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 08:50 PM   #56
86cj74.2L
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Post a video, cold start to driving down the road...really, I would love to see it

Hows this?
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Unread 03-15-2014, 09:45 PM   #57
SouthernGypsy
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Wow that guys having to crank it a long time in that video, mine starts almost as soon as I touch the key. I will have to video mine starting.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 09:57 PM   #58
86cj74.2L
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Wow that guys having to crank it a long time in that video, mine starts almost as soon as I touch the key. I will have to video mine starting.
In my climate I prefer to get oil pressure before starting it. It sat for two weeks so that helps prime the oil passages and put gas back in the fuel bowl.

I use to not set the choke at all until I saw oil pressure. Some here like that concept.

But it turns over long enough before the engine lites off for me and starts without pumping the gas and oil pressure is all but instant.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 10:32 PM   #59
SouthernGypsy
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In my climate I prefer to get oil pressure before starting it. It sat for two weeks so that helps prime the oil passages and put gas back in the fuel bowl.

I use to not set the choke at all until I saw oil pressure. Some here like that concept.

But it turns over long enough before the engine lites off for me and starts without pumping the gas and oil pressure is all but instant.

Yea, we're not THAT cold here in Arkansas and mine always shows oil pressure instantly when it starts so no issue there for me.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 10:46 PM   #60
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Here is mine being started... Just videoed and uploaded it so you could see.

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