I've noticed what may be a voltage problem. I should start by saying I have witnessed this on 2 different voltage gauges (1 old stock gauge and a new AutoMeter gauge), and with 2 different alternators (I run a Ford G3 180 Amp alternator which I just replaced recently). Most of the time the gauge reads just about 13V. I can blast the stereo and amp as much as I want with no apparent effect on voltage gauge. When I use the turn signals, the needle on the gauge shows a noticeable drop (needle bounces in rhythm with the blinker light) but doesn't go below 12V. When I turn on the headlights, the gauge drops to just a hair over 12V and sits there. If I use the turn signal while headlights are on, the gauge bounces between about 11.5 - 12V. Headlights seem bright (no dimming or flicker that I can detect). The battery seems to maintain charge without a problem. I've given the wiring a once-over and can't see anything that looks bad. Any ideas what could be the problem?
Yes, there are a lot of parasitic draw off that circuit and If your wires are starting to corrode under the insulation then the problem is getting worse.
We actually could find the major source of the voltage drop with a volt meter if you are interested in a lot of sleuthing. It would take me longer to describe the process than actually do it.
Yes, there are a lot of parasitic draw off that circuit and If your wires are starting to corrode under the insulation then the problem is getting worse.
We actually could find the major source of the voltage drop with a volt meter if you are interested in a lot of sleuthing. It would take me longer to describe the process than actually do it.
I'm assuming the draw (or at least the major culprit) is somewhere in the lighting circuit. Would I just measure resistance on each connection? I was also wondering if the turn flasher might need to be replaced too?
I'm assuming the draw (or at least the major culprit) is somewhere in the lighting circuit. Would I just measure resistance on each connection? I was also wondering if the turn flasher might need to be replaced too?
Would not be a bad idea to have your alternator checked for AMPS and VOLTS.
Also, load test the battery too.
When was the last time you checked ALL of your gnd. connections and cleaned your battery terminals?
LG
Battery terminals/cables are sparkling new. Alternator is less than a month old (had same behavior with old alternator). Grounds all LOOK good, but I haven't pulled them all off and cleaned them yet... was hoping to figure out which ones need attention rather than messing with all of them. Since the problem only occurs with headlights and or turn signals on, that's where I'm focusing my attention. Think I'll start taking components out of the circuit one at a time to see if I can narrow things down more. I have an extra headlight switch that I may install too.
You can check grounds same way as above. Just do it on the ground side.
If you ever look inside a ignition switch you'll wonder how all that current passes through that contact. You'll wonder why we worry about wire size when the contact in the switch is so small.
It was a big improvement when they started using relays on everything.
Even with good grounds I've noticed a voltage drop of 1 volt or so between neg terminal and engine block on various cars and trucks and still read .03 ohms on the connection.
I ended up hitting the I believe button because I could never get that last volt to go away.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.8K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!