I know I've seen this discussed in other threads but can't seem to find them now. Even after sitting for one day, I have to crank and pump the pedal for 1 to 2 minutes before it'll start. Once it starts, it'll start easy for the rest of the day. I've heard of people installing check valves in the fuel line back by the tank, just wondering if that solved the problem for anyone here. Initially when trying to start the jeep, there is fuel shooting into the carb, is that just from the bowl, but the line has drained back into the tank ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had a carter with a manual choke and the first thing I did was get a weber. That helped a lot.
[COLOR=DarkGreen][FONT=Century Gothic]All the Jeeps I've owned
79 CJ5 258 six with a weber (current vehicle) T18/Dana20
81 CJ5 258 six (driven out of Alaska thru Canada in winter with a softtop)
75 Jeep Wagoneer 360V8
79 Jeep Cherokee 258 six
Before I replaced the distributor, I thought I had a fuel problem too. If I let it sit for a couple days, I would have to crank like hell to get it to start. I thought the carb was drying up. But then I kept reading about HEI conversions so for the heck of it, I bought a DUI. Starts instantly all the time now. I always thought my old ignition system was in good order but apparently it wasn't.
It's a 1 barrel Carter. The choke doesn't seem to work either, I don't think that should cause a problem like this but I've had fuel injected trucks for so long, I'm learning carbs all over again. Just got the jeep (77 CJ7, 258 from a 75 I think) a couple months ago, trying to get it inspectable so I can work out all the bugs. I'm sure the carb needs a rebuild, and I didn't think about the distributor as a possible cause. Oh, and trying to start it earlier today, FRIED the solenoid, little bit of smoke etc. I'm new to jeeps and this seems to be a somewhat common issue with them. Just trying to figure out why.
PacFanWeb is right an the fuel pump has one way valves in them However a 77cj might have a leakey fuel line that is sucking more air than fuel and allowing the gas to drain back:
This one was almost impossible to see until I took the tub off.
And yes the choke is important also. It should completly close for the first 5 seconds of trying to start your jeep and then open it up part way. In a couple of min you should be able to open it fully. Learning how to use a mechanical choke is important.
Also the 77 CJ has about the worst possible ignition system on it. The Prestolite I had was nothing but problems. Get rid of it and put in a GM HEI or if your good at wiring a later model CJ Motorcraft with the TFI upgrage. The GM HEI is easier to install since you have to replace the whole system anyway.
Thanks for the info, that might explain the way it runs too. And from what i've been seeing browsing for parts, I should be able to replace the thermostat in the choke ? It's an automatic choke, but not electric. I'll have to take some time this weekend and give it a better look.