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Unread 09-21-2011, 10:18 AM   #16
WNC-84CJ7
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A little more on the rig. and my spacebar sticks, so if some words look like they are mating that is why.

Bought in Brevard NC off CL for a grand. Guy had it listed for 1050 and said everything worked and it ran. Told him I would take it without even seeing it, and picked it up the next day. I am a little more than an hour west of Brevard through some pretty decent mountains- not like the Rockies or anything just.....awesome. Visit if you haven't- you would dig it. Made the drive home without incident at about 40 mph the whole way. Filled it up in town, as the fuel guage does not work- do any of the original fuel g's work??

As I suspected, for a grand it was rough. More street than steel in the bottom of the tub, and the driver's side sill is trashed. The factory step (which I am looking for by the way) was in the back when I picked it up. Looks like somebody layed the whole rig into a tree on that side. Not violent like, just smooshed.

I knew I was bound for a new tub from day one and started looking. Furious CL searching and $300 yielded the blue mystery tub in the pics. Good floor where there is no floor in the Cinnamon tub. I am going to put new pans in the fronts. Still deciding on the aforementioned stretch to 8 dimentions. Maybe.

So- since purchasing my pieces I have been working on the tub, sanding and priming easy pieces, like mirror brackets and stuff, and spending WAY TOO MUCH TIME HERE!

More soon- class starting.

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Unread 09-22-2011, 10:58 AM   #17
WNC-84CJ7
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Anybody have experience with taking rear corners off? If it is super PITA I will just hammer them out and fill 'em. I don't want to cover up with armor. I have decided not to stretch to 8 dimentions. I will do a scrambler next.

I can take the corners off of the cinnamon, so the material would be free but the labor would be 2X.

The very last tub mounts on the body are no good. That boxed sheet bar, underneath the tailgate hinge mounting spot (and that spot for that matter) across the back needs to go. Can I just whack it off and replace it with a same dimention piece of boxed steel?

I will post pics of the specific spot I mean tonight.
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Unread 09-22-2011, 03:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNC-84CJ7 View Post
Anybody have experience with taking rear corners off? If it is super PITA I will just hammer them out and fill 'em. I don't want to cover up with armor. I have decided not to stretch to 8 dimentions. I will do a scrambler next.

I can take the corners off of the cinnamon, so the material would be free but the labor would be 2X.

The very last tub mounts on the body are no good. That boxed sheet bar, underneath the tailgate hinge mounting spot (and that spot for that matter) across the back needs to go. Can I just whack it off and replace it with a same dimention piece of boxed steel?

I will post pics of the specific spot I mean tonight.
It sounds like you are talking about your rear crossmember. I found one from a JF member for $50. You can use steel, but I think box stock would place your rear tub mounts outside the tub parameters. You would need to use channel, unless you're creative with the box!

I can't help with the corners, as my Jeep is perfect! I never had to remove a corner.
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 09-23-2011, 05:55 AM   #19
WNC-84CJ7
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I flat out fell asleep last night,so no pics- sorry.

Most of the build will happen in the spring, but I am doing a lot of the planning now. I will be a recently graduated dad with no job. As such, I am accumulating as many parts as I can now. I won't be able to afford a billion dollars worth of parts all at once in April or May. What I don't use I will sell or give away. That said...

The Jeep will be about 50/50 road/offroad. On the 5 to 25 mile trips I will break it out, but longer ones (especially with the family) will be done in the Liberty or the Volvo. That's not to say I wouldn't trek it out to the Davidson in Pisgah to fish (about an hour).

The offroad time would be typical trail time- not super steep rock crawling or insane vertical. I do however want to outpreform my brothers TJ. He is stock except for a 3" lift and 33's. He is still running the 4cyl but will probably convert in a year or two (new baby- sucker).

This leads up to my question. I have been reading a lot of posts about modifications. Should I do a spring over and/or a shackle reversal? I will need to begin accumulating parts now. You guys rule. Lemme know.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 02:54 PM   #20
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This is the back and bottom of the "new" tub where the tub mounts are. Yikes! The tub is sitting on its driver's side. Should I try to use some parts off cinnamon or fabricate something else from stock?

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Unread 09-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #21
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Don't use chemical rust converters. 2k epoxy in particular, and paint in general, don't really get along with 'em.

If you are looking for a good result... you need shiny clean bare metal to start with, and it's gonna cost far more and take far longer than you might think.

You can't really use sand on sheet metal without warping it badly, and blasting big stuff at home means TONS of wasted media... and bead is stupid expensive, like 30-50 a bag, and doing the tub might use 20 bags doing it outdoors.

Instead, drop tub off at a place that does large scale media blasting. While you might be able to do it yourself, what are you gonna do with the ton or so of sand you'll use blasting for weeks outdoors? Locally cost me 75 an hour for blasting on my frame. Probably around a grand on the whole tub. I paid 187.50 for 2 axles, frame, belly pan, and bumper... and yes, totally stripped down, gears out of housings is how I dropped stuff off. Only blast small stuff; I bought a HF upright blast cabinet for 200 that just about everything else fit in, and have only used 4 bags of blast sand (8 bucks a 40 pounder at Tractor supply) on virtually EVERY other part of the CJ. Everything that could fit in the cabinet went through it. (You do need a 5 HP or better compressor.)

Take it home and hit the whole thing with a 2k epoxy primer, then start on bodywork. Fix the corners, it's really really tough not to trap corrosion in the seams if you try to cut them out and replace. 2k epoxy is awesome because it can be used direct to metal and also as a sealer over modern fillers. After all bodywork, seal it, smooth it, base and then clear it.

Forget your original budget. If you're going to do a serious restoration... you're doing all the prep anyway, spring for the more expensive paint and primer. You'll be spending thousands more than you thought you would.

If not, and your budget won't stretch... sell the blue tub, carve the CJ parts out of the cinnamon tub dash, and do a YJ tub swap, because even a 'rust free' tub isn't. Scuff it, mod as required, spray it. Do NOT go to bare metal.

Oh... mines not done. It's in epoxy, most bodywork done, at a buddy's place. Even with him doing body exterior and paint, and before buying any paint, just primer... I'm about 4 grand into the project. Trust me, I know how far outthese things can get.


Another hint: drop frame off at the blaster's too. You'll have to remove ALL undercoating to allow then to get it done in a rational time. Clean, my frame took a little less than 2 hours. If I'd left it undercoated would have taken more like 12 at the blasters. Propane torch and a scraper gets the worst off; oxy/acetyline will burn the rest clean. Takes a day or so though. Worth it to save 750.
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The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 08:08 PM   #22
WNC-84CJ7
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Thanks 'Rider.

I am doing everything I can as best I can. I already have 2K primer, and have not -or will not- use the chem converter. My dad tried to get me to, and I shot that down. I am inversting in a blaster, I just dont know if I am getting a tank or a booth. I have a bazillion compressors. I can build a booth in the shop to recapture. I am not building a show truck. I want something nice to drive when I fish that can get me up the driveway in the winter. I hope to do a Scrambler after I am driving this one- that one goes ALL OUT - this is just for practice!

Chris
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Unread 09-23-2011, 08:37 PM   #23
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If you build a way to recapture the media, you may well be able to blast it all yourself. (It'll take you a Loooong time - but hey you'll own the equipment and get practice.)

Please... don't forget when you start spraying the coatings... most of the good stuff (like most all modern 2k stuff) makes you dead easily. Positive pressure mask is best, top quality filters at absolute minimum designed for the product hazards you'll be spraying. (I've seen some interesting ideas on using a Home Depot buckethead shop vac to supply positive pressure breathing masks...)


Another hint on stripping paint... be really careful not to gouge into the metal while stripping, DAs work better by far than rotating sanders. Every scratch you add you have to fill later....

Good luck, and keep updating progress. I look forward to it.
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97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

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The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 08:52 PM   #24
WNC-84CJ7
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I have definitely decided not to SOA at this time. I am gonna stay with my current tire size, and it would look silly. Not to mention the added stress bigger tires would be on my little 4 banger. But I am wondering about the shackle reversal. Everything will be off anyway. Opinions?
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Unread 09-24-2011, 07:00 PM   #25
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This post is merely to say that CLEMSON RULES and FSU.......sorry suckaz. FSU hasn't won in Death Valley in how long? ACC Championship Game- Georgia Tech vs. Clemson. Clemson wins goes to Orange Bowl. Easy.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 09:53 AM   #26
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Don't really have anything new. I guess this could go in the "What did you do your CJ today?" thread. The Jeep is now my DD after wrecking my car Saturday. I threw the soft top and flappy doors on and am taking it to school. Could I be getting about 22/23 Mpg?? Thats what my math says. Fuel gauge not working (shocker) so I am filling up often, and writing down my miles and gallons. The AMC 151 4 cyl with 265/75/15's 4 spd tranny (don't know which one yet) stock suspension and driveline (don't know ratios yet). Looks like the PO rebuilt the carb, but I am still getting a lot of coughing especially in a lower RPM situation. I still have all the smog crap on it, but will do the Weber swap, unless I do the 258. Any thoughts onj the gas mileage? Seems crazy good. Maybe I was just expecting too little. My 1999 F250 SD V10 gets 11.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 04:11 PM   #27
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A few of the guys get 20+ MPG, so it's doable.

Are we gonna start seeing Volvo parts going on the CJ??
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 10-04-2011, 10:14 PM   #28
WNC-84CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
A few of the guys get 20+ MPG, so it's doable.

Are we gonna start seeing Volvo parts going on the CJ??
Kinda funny you said that. As the Volvo was being loaded on the wrecker, I wondered how the wheels would look on the CJ. True story.
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"No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms. The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government"
-- Thomas Jefferson, 1 Thomas Jefferson Papers, 334
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Unread 03-27-2012, 08:16 AM   #29
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Been a few months because of some boring and sucky reasons. Won't bother with that. A few posts ago somebody mentioned the word "budget". There is no budget- meaning there is no money, not "the sky is the limit!!"

Started a couple weeks ago on the teardown. Had trouble with one body mount in the driver's side rear crossmember. Other than that, they all came out without a hitch. My goodness, the bottom of the original tub is a little... rusty.

I am fooling around with some rattle-can and brush-on Rustoleum products for the different parts of the rig. I buy a can or two when we go food or clothes shopping, that way I don't have to shell out larger sums I ain't got.
Using different primers and paints, this will be a kind of "field test" to see what holds up. My original thought of restoring to original is right out the window. That would entail $$ I don't have, and a condition that I would not want to mess up. This is a fishing rig, not a mall crawler. I can't be afraid to rub up a stump if I have to.

I did some of the firewall with high heat primer, and Rusto's silver high heat grill paint. Leaks should be obvious against this.

I also did some of the underside of the tub. testing out the rust reformer, the professional primer (great flow!), and the rubberized undercoating.

I have two body mounts that will need work. One by the driver's side

and one in the rear crossmember- not the one I had to drill though!
My other body mounts look great.



Will continue in a few....
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Unread 03-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #30
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I moved the old pics to a different album, so I broke the links- sorry. We will get plenty new ones. The new tub is in good shape. It has a few issues that I amkinda excited to try my hand at fixing. One is the usual rust by the logo. No pics there yet. Will post soon.

The other is the valance and body mounts in the rear. It is really the only place there is rust on the new tub.


Ironically (considering the rest of it) it is the only "good" part left of the old body.


I am going to cut em both off and swap em. I haven't welded in 20 years, but I am good with my hands.

The engine is the only thing that really sux here.


I don't have the flow for one right now (Sorry Ethan). But I graduate in May, and I told my parents if they wanna get me something for graduation, a motor for the jeep would be THE BEST. We'll see if they are paying attention. Yes I am 35 and graduating from college late, but mommy loves her "little boy" and wants to get him something.

As previously noted, have a Dana 300 on a T4 behind the AMC 150 4 cyl.
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