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Unread 01-19-2012, 04:56 PM   #16
SlikRic
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When you go to put the cover back on do your self a favor and get some Allen head bolts, makes the removal and all alot easier.

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Unread 01-19-2012, 08:47 PM   #17
Ken4444
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When you attach the new valve cover, do your reasearch on how to do it, what kind of sealant to use, and how to not overtighten the bolts. These things can be tricky to keep from leaking, although most people seem to get it done OK. My experience on the other hand, hasn't been so great
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Unread 01-21-2012, 08:54 PM   #18
dslywalker
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I used a 1/4" drive--7/16 swivel socket.It work but still a *****. Allen bolts like mentioned would work better
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Unread 01-26-2012, 01:49 PM   #19
gmgreen
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I am replacing the valve cover as I write this. I got the front and rear bolts out real easy. I was lucky I could get a socket on it. I took off the two cap screws off and here is my stupid question. Do I just pry the cover off ? I'm sure I should take a razor knife and cut between the cover and old gasket.
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Unread 01-26-2012, 02:08 PM   #20
kharmajavah
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Give it a few knocks with a rubber mallet. When I replaced mine after buying the Jeep, I think it was the original gasket. It took a few knocks to break the seal, but it gave eventually without prying.
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Unread 01-26-2012, 02:26 PM   #21
SlikRic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dslywalker View Post
I used a 1/4" drive--7/16 swivel socket.It work but still a *****. Allen bolts like mentioned would work better
I was able to take it off in 10 minutes, after switching to allen head bolts
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Unread 01-26-2012, 02:58 PM   #22
gmgreen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kharmajavah View Post
Give it a few knocks with a rubber mallet. When I replaced mine after buying the Jeep, I think it was the original gasket. It took a few knocks to break the seal, but it gave eventually without prying.
That's exactly what I did. Got one side to lift and the cover came right off. That original gasket is going to take some time to get off. I am lucky all holes have been drilled all I have to do is bottom tap them. Looks a little nasty in there. The CJ only has 18,000 original miles.
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Unread 01-26-2012, 04:19 PM   #23
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Use allen bolts easily found at Ace and get a set of long hex drivers so you can put a torque wrench on them. Harbor has a cheap set or you can get a good set here...

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...X-BIT-SKT-SET/
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Unread 01-26-2012, 07:49 PM   #24
gmgreen
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My new valve cover came with allen head bolts. Just need to get long hex drivers.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 05:40 AM   #25
chooster5000
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put the racing studs in for the valve cover instead of the bolts thats what i did for my motor because of the rear bolt. you can tighten them really easy and all you need is the t handles, be sure to remove them because they fall off. lol
imag0468.jpg   imag0471.jpg  
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Unread 01-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #26
Matt1981CJ7
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I got lucky and found an aluminum cover that uses the original 2 mounting bolts on the top of the cover. No need to drill or tap additional holes, and I don't have to mess with difficult to reach bolts.

I used a heavy bead of the Right Stuff gasket maker, and tightened the bolts with my fingers just enough to mush the bead a little.

I've put approximately 5K on the engine since and no signs of a leak, so far.

Matt
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Unread 01-27-2012, 07:16 AM   #27
keith460
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Even though I have an aluminum valve cover on my engine already, I really like the looks and design of the one above that Matt1881CJ7 has.

Where did you get that one? Who makes it?

I see you have a bolt through the oil fill cap because I know they are prone to leak. I found several ways to stop the fill cap from leaking and after experimenting with a few replacement plugs, I use one that stays in place and no leaks.

Got the cap from McMaster-Carr and the seal below it from Ace Hardware. It just pushes down and seals on top of the cover. Takes a little bit of force to get it off though but, I'd rather have it tight then loose.







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Unread 01-27-2012, 07:31 AM   #28
Matt1981CJ7
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Keith,

Thanks. It was made by Westside Performance.

Unfortunately, they don't manufacture it any more, even though it's still listed on their website. I was able to talk the rep into searching his shop for a remaining straggler. He called me about 30 minutes later, and said he found the "last one" buried deep in the attic of his shop. I snagged it.

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Unread 01-27-2012, 10:58 AM   #29
gmgreen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Even though I have an aluminum valve cover on my engine already, I really like the looks and design of the one above that Matt1881CJ7 has.

Where did you get that one? Who makes it?

I see you have a bolt through the oil fill cap because I know they are prone to leak. I found several ways to stop the fill cap from leaking and after experimenting with a few replacement plugs, I use one that stays in place and no leaks.

Got the cap from McMaster-Carr and the seal below it from Ace Hardware. It just pushes down and seals on top of the cover. Takes a little bit of force to get it off though but, I'd rather have it tight then loose.







Did you use any sealant on your cork gasket? It looks like you didn't.
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Unread 01-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #30
keith460
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The only thing I used was CRC Copper Coat Sealant Compound. Applied it to one side of the cork gasket and let it dry to a tacky feel I also applied the same sealant to the surface of the cylinder head until tacky and then bolted the valve cover, with gasket in place, onto the head.

Never leaked once, even after having the valve cover bolts loosen up on me. Took them out and applied 'blue' non-hardening Loctite to the bolts, followed by a internal star lock washer. Torqued them to spec and have not had a problem.
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