Valve cover replacement (am i missing a bolt somewhere???) - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-22-2007, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
valkadesh
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Valve cover replacement (am i missing a bolt somewhere???)

Long story short....i got a new valve cover for my 258 85' CJ7. I easily removed the 3 bolts from the passenger side, and I then removed 4 bolts from the drivers side that had hold down mechanisms. Am i missing a bolt or two somewhere, from what i can tell i've got them all, but the cover certainly isn't coming over even though it's fairly loose....

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post #2 of 8 Old 07-22-2007, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
valkadesh
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Answering my own question. My valve cover is only about 1/8 of an inch off the firewall so that back bolt is completely hidden. So much for this upgrade for now
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-22-2007, 09:13 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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A loose valve cover is not a good thing. And yes, that bolt in the back is a pain in the rear. When I installed my valve cover I gave up on the rear one, but it was leaking slightly in that area so I finally forced myself to get one in there. With the right socket extension, you can push the firewall metal back far enough to barely get it on the bolt, and you should be able to tighten it down. Just remember not to tighten too much.

Also, not sure if you knew it or not, but you do have to tap the 2 holes on the driver side for the aftermarket aluminum valve covers. The stock plastic valve cover uses spacer thingies that tighten down on the driver side head bolts.

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
valkadesh
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Well i can't even get a pencil down there much less a socket of any size. I'm guessing my motor mounts are sagging a bit (go figure after 20+ years). I'll probably try to jack up the engine to change those out and at the same time take off the old valve cover and replace it.

As close as it is to the firewall right now, there is zero way of even seeing that bolt, much less getting a socket on it to get it out!

Thanks for the tips though.
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 10:04 AM
JoonHoss
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if your motor mounts are that bad, replace them first (simple task, cheap part).

you can't see the bolt, but it's not that bad to get at, with an extension.

when I did mine, I replaced the back bolt with a stud, which seemed to make it go alot easier.

there are many, many threads worth reading in this section, with a lot of helpful tips.

Good luck!

Hoss

"Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped."
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 01:00 PM
SuB8HaVeN
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I couldn't see the bolt on mine either, and I had to struggle to even touch it with the tips of my fingers. The firewall metal is fairly flexible, so I just pushed it back while slipping an extension down there and I finally got it on. It just takes a LOT of patience, that's all...

1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
valkadesh
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When i say i've got less than a 1/4 of an inch clearance i'm not kidding. I really think my motor has slipped back, it has to be. I can't even come close to getting a ratched back there.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-23-2007, 02:28 PM
JoonHoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkadesh
When i say i've got less than a 1/4 of an inch clearance i'm not kidding. I really think my motor has slipped back, it has to be. I can't even come close to getting a ratched back there.
do you mean that there is less than 1/4" between the back bolt and the firewall, or less than 1/4" from the valvle cover back edge to the firewall?

you can't get to it with a straight ratchet and extentension, you'll need a wobbly on a 3/8" ratchet...

Hoss

"Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped."
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