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Unread 11-09-2013, 04:00 AM   #16
Matt1981CJ7
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The closed and heated factory air cleaner is superior to any open design, in my experience.

It sounds like you're well on your way to understanding your CJ.

Good luck,

Matt

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Unread 11-09-2013, 08:17 PM   #17
SouthernGypsy
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I tried disconnecting the under-dash computer today to see if it could be removed, but then the Jeep would not start. From what I can tell it has already had the by-pass done but would just crank but not start. Any ideas? I read everything in those pages over again and am not seeing anything that would account for that, most of them make it sound like since everything under the hood in the way of O2, sensors, etc. is already disconnected that I should be able to just remove the computer totally but didn't work out that way.
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Unread 11-10-2013, 04:37 AM   #18
Matt1981CJ7
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If the Nutter Bypass has been done, the computer can go away. That's the whole purpose for the mod.

I think there is a derivation of the mod, which leaves the computer-controlled ignition, but not the carb, or vice versa. Perhaps that's yours.

You will have to trace wires, and poke around with a test light and multimeter, to know for sure.

Matt
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Unread 11-10-2013, 11:05 AM   #19
SouthernGypsy
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Well I figured out the wires they have added are not the bypass, in fact not sure what they are, they go to the coil instead of the distributor. So I started doing the nutter bypass myself and have the nice long twisted orange and purple wires that I got off inside about 2" from the computer and pulled out of the harness (I didn't cut them off at the firewall, doing it closer to the computer gives me much more length) but when I went to find the Orange and Purple wires at the Ignition Module, I only have an orange wire, this one does not have a purple wire at the Ignition module. Did they use some other color (like light grey) some years?
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Unread 11-10-2013, 05:52 PM   #20
SouthernGypsy
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Finally figured it out, got the computer and all of it's wiring removed, the diagnostic connector removed, all of the needless sensors removed and the holes plugged with proper plugs, and all of those wires removed, in fact the single larges wiring harness under the hood is completely gone. Must have saved 3-6 lbs of weight off the vehicle just removing all that crap.

All I have now is there is whatever now unused or needless wires running thru the main harness. There is a wide flat plug coming out of it near the brake booster between it and the engine that now has nothing plugged into it, and there is a relay there in that area that has 4 connector and I can't figure out what it's for but it has a heavier ga. red wire coming into one connector, another heavier red wire coming off another connector, a very light colored baby pule greenish-yellow wire which used to go to a sensor in the manifold but is now not connected to anything coming out of one of the plugs, a wire that goes to ground out of the other. Can't find it in any of the schematics.
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Unread 11-12-2013, 12:07 PM   #21
wm69
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Have any pics you can post? Depending on what that Laredo looks like, it might be a good builder for you. Laredo specific parts (Steering wheel/horn button, seats, leather wrapped grab bar, etc) bring pretty good $$$ if in good shape, so you could sell the Laredo stuff and modify it like you want. Before you do so I would post pics of it as well. Sounds like it's been modded to the point where it would be a good candidate for a driver, but no longer a collectible.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 11-12-2013, 05:38 PM   #22
SouthernGypsy
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We went for a ride in the Limited on Memorial Day to view some of the remaining fall colors...
img_0012.jpg   img_0009.jpg   img_0010.jpg   img_0014.jpg  
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Unread 11-12-2013, 06:43 PM   #23
SouthernGypsy
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Been driving the Limited for days now, in fact have already put about 600 miles on it, runs perfect, starts right off every time, hasn't used a drop of oil yet once I fixed the broken PVC system and replaced the valve cover gasket which was leaking. We have found that the Laredo is coated on the underbelly with grease and oil, some fresh. The Limited has some oil on the underside but all fresher looking and I think most can be attributed to the valve cover gasket, I washed most of it away after we replaced the gasket and it's not coming back. Despite it's nice body and strong engine I am thinking the Laredo is more served as a nice builder but unfortunately a bit larger build than I personally want. My dad only wanted one to run around the ranch during the winter and play with a little, then sell it next spring (I know someone will come along soon enough who will trade him something for it).

So we're back to him keeping the Laredo for nwo and me deciding to either keep the Limited and doing some minor mods to make it like I want keeping the original parts, or sell it and buy one already built fairly close to what I want. Since I don't want to mud with it or anything like that and mainly want a "touring" Jeep that I can tune to get the best gas mileage that I can but still be able to take off down gravel roads and even offroad in the hills in scenic areas but no serious rock crawling and certainly no deep mud the Limited is already 90% what I was looking for, of course an older 2 door Wrangler would serve for what I wanted as well but I just happen to like the CJ-7's. The mods I would like would be maybe a small lift (using springs, I don't like body lifts) just enough to clear maybe a 31x11.50-15 or 32x11.50-15. I even wondered if a 31x11.50-15 would fit now, or at least after I replace the body mounts. I don't like body lifts but that is one flaw with the limited, the body mounts are squished and cracked and I think really should be replaced with a new kit (anyone know the best kit to choose?) which alone will probably return a half-inch of height to the body even in stock size just because of how much these are squished down. I know 33's are popular but I just don't want to go that large. I also don't really know if I want to go as wide as a 12.50 on width. Will have to try and find some pics of these with the 31 and 32 inch height tires with the 11.50 width to see how they look. The tires on it right now are 30x9.50x15. The other thing I'd like to change is to dress it up a little, I'd really like aluminum wheels not only for the looks (though the body colored wheels are growing on me) but aluminum wheels have less unsprung weight and ride/handle better plus the weight loss. I was thinking about a few stainless accessories, I always wanted one with the stainless hinges but the body colored door hinges and the two-colored windshield hinges actually look kinda good on this one. So maybe just smaller stuff like the spare tire stop and license plate bracket (current black one is rusting where the plate was against it). I would like to put a winch on it, one of the low-profile models like the Warn XD9000i series. Inside I would like higher-backed bucket seats in front with the headrest and the flip-and-fold style rear seat with the adjustable headrest. Have the floorboards all Rhino-lined and put in new carpet, the carpet is in good condition but you can see a distinct difference in the shade in parts that have and have not been exposed to the sun any. I would also be wanting to put in a CD player which would mean the original dash would have to be trimmed to a square hole, and while I would do it properly and neatly with a perfectly shaped hole and filed edges, it would still be a very permanent change to an original unmolested dash. How to mount better speakers without cutting anywhere else and not having them sit out in speaker boxes on the floor (something I just don't personally like) would be another issue. I know there are some nice looking speaker mounts that even add a dome light and mount to the roll bar and look factory, but I am not sure if you have to remove the nice original factory padded roll bar covers this Limited came with to install them. Also defiantly want the hard half-doors and some kind of soft top for the summer just in case it rains, maybe a bikini top that can be quickly deployed.

Basically we want a comfortable fun Jeep that we can get on either the interstate, route 66, old backroads, or even back country gravel roads and without fear of it breaking down or guzzling a tanker full of fuel cruise out to Colorado, Montana, or Utah and go driving up in the mountains, etc. or just cruising on the scenic by-ways of our country. I'm a retired Army Ranger and my girl is a early-out Air Force flight nurse and our carriers have kept us all over the world since we have known each other (she's 12 years younger than myself) and we now want to get out and see the country we have spent so much time overseas protecting. I grew up with Jeeps, my first vehicle was a 2 door Cherokee Chief, I've had a dozen of the Cherokees and now approaching a dozen Grand Cherokees the last several of which have been Overland editions and while they are real Jeeps they aren't the same feeling on a road trip as the CJ's I grew up with and drove when I was young. My girl also grew up with Jeeps, learned to drive in one and her dad always had CJ's when she was a kid, we both miss it. So though I am new to restoring one and have been away from the CJ/Wrangler style body for awhile, we're certainly not new to them altogether.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 09:38 AM   #24
wm69
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You can run 31x10.50's with stock springs if they aren't sagging. Put new body mounts in (easy) and if need be, you could do a 2.5" lift OR you could add slightly longer shackles (like 1" longer than stock; don't go bigger than that or it will mess up your steering symetry). 31.10.50's are the best looking tire on a stockish Jeep IMHO. I have three CJ's, and all of them have 31's (well, one is in the process of getting 31's; got them in Monday). Two have 2.5" lifts, the other is stock.

If you do put new seats in, the old ones would be rare as they are Limited only (assuming they're original) so you could sell them to someone restoring a Limited. If I were you, I would keep them, and ALL original parts that you remove just in case you ever want to put it back to 100% stock.

As for a stereo, does it have a factory stereo now? You can put a Tuffy or similar console in that has a slot for a stereo. This allows you waterproof, secure place for stereo that also doesn't require cutting the dash. I wouldnt cut the dash. 5 1/4" speakers go behind the factory speaker grills, and you can put 6x9's in the back using these. Sound good, no permanent modifications, and don't clutter up the interior.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vertically-D...ht_1158wt_1362

YJ 1/2 hard doors will fit. If you want 1/2 doors, look for a set of YJ lower steel doors, paint to match, then get a bestop supertop with soft 1/2 uppers for a YJ (YJ and CJ soft tops are interchangeable)

I'll have a Warn XD8000i for sale in the near future (got to get my 8274 project finished). I'm in East Arkansas about 90 miles east of Little Rock.

That Jeep looks VERY nice. For what you want to do with it, I would keep it and enjoy it, but I would think before I did anything permanent to modify it.

Dad's Scrambler has 4400 miles on it at the moment. I have a lot of things to do to it, because I don't ever intend to sell it, and I want to drive it at least a little bit. That said, I won't be doing any permanent modifications to it, just in case my kids or grandkids want to sell it after I'm gone. I'm just keeping any stock parts that are removed, and figuring out ways to add what I want without doing anything that can't be undone. For example, I have a Tuffy console that will get a Sony FM modulated single CD player, which I will pipe through an original Jeep AM/FM/CB radio in the dash. Going to add an FM modulated AUX hookup too for the ipod. Rocker guard/side steps mount by steel plates that sandwich the frame so no drilling required. I have some Conn-Ferr Shackles that are like .5 inches longer than stock, so those will go on when I mount the 31's. I got in earlier this week (currently has 30.9.50's like yours), and I'll keep the original shackles just in case.

I've even kept the original AMC marked belts and hoses, which I replaced just due to age, even though they look ok.

Like I said, nice Jeep, and for how you intend to use it, I think I'd keep it.

The collector guys tend to frequent www.CJ-8.com, and there is a "other limited edition CJ's" section over there. I would post it up over there as well. Several of those guys have Limiteds and can offer input.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 11-13-2013, 10:22 AM   #25
Gigemags05
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Just a little tip that someone mentioned earlier, and I am trying to be productive so don't take it the wrong way.

Shorten your posts. A lot.

There are a lot of guys who could add valuable advice and knowledge that are passing over this thread because of the novelesque posts. They are also kind of hard to follow.

For instance, a lot of people didn't get to the part that you are a retired army ranger and your girl was in the air force. Thank you both very much for your service! I think you have a beautiful jeep. I agree with whoever said to just keep the original parts for anything you replace.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 12:26 PM   #26
SouthernGypsy
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That's good to know that 31's will clear ok with a stock suspension.

The only truly permanent thing I was thinking of would have been the radio hole, everything else could be undone and I was indeed going to keep the original pieces. I did some more searching last night and did decide against any body lift. I was hoping someone maybe made a very small, like 1/4 or 1/2 so nothing needed to be modified at all and it didn't create a gap, I know that's not much but sometimes with larger tires a tiny amount can help but I couldn't find any smaller than 1" on the market and you have to trim the fan shroud with a 1", not sure if it's small enough to create a gap or not. I had just remembered helping a friend once with a truck and for it a company had offered a replacement body bushing kit that added 1/4 above stock with the advertizement that it was enough so that even after the bushings "settled" after awhile it would still end up being what was supposed to be the stock height, sounded perfect for what I was thinking but apparently no similar thing is offered for the CJ's.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 12:30 PM   #27
SouthernGypsy
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No, no problem at all and thanks for the suggestion. I have thick skin so wouldn't have bothered me anyway, on my monitor neither of even my longest post are more than 2 paragraphs long, like my post you replied to had about 1/2 of a paragraph, then a full one, then another 1/2 of one for a total of just two full ones. I do suppose if someone is reading on a phone or smart pad or has an older monitor with the narrower width I guess it could end up looking like a novel.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 01:42 PM   #28
wm69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernGypsy View Post
That's good to know that 31's will clear ok with a stock suspension.

The only truly permanent thing I was thinking of would have been the radio hole, everything else could be undone and I was indeed going to keep the original pieces. I did some more searching last night and did decide against any body lift. I was hoping someone maybe made a very small, like 1/4 or 1/2 so nothing needed to be modified at all and it didn't create a gap, I know that's not much but sometimes with larger tires a tiny amount can help but I couldn't find any smaller than 1" on the market and you have to trim the fan shroud with a 1", not sure if it's small enough to create a gap or not. I had just remembered helping a friend once with a truck and for it a company had offered a replacement body bushing kit that added 1/4 above stock with the advertizement that it was enough so that even after the bushings "settled" after awhile it would still end up being what was supposed to be the stock height, sounded perfect for what I was thinking but apparently no similar thing is offered for the CJ's.
Replace your body mounts and it will sit up a hair more than the original 25-30 year old mounts.

I have this CD player added in my Jeeps.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-In-Dash-P...ref=pd_sxp_f_r

Hard to find now but they're out there.

I also added ipod jacks to them as well. Keeps factory look in the dash, while adding CD and ipod access. Use Pioneer speakers in dash and rear boxes. Good sound, not a tremendous amount of money, and again, still looks stock.

One other thing to consider. Console mounting is waterproof. Most Jeeps leak behind the dash, so if you put an aftermarket head unit there, they get killed by water. The OEM radios are pretty water resistant.
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85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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Unread 11-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #29
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Hahaha, with these mounts it will probably gain more than a hair, when I say they are bad, I mean they are baaaad. Probably the worst thing I have found on the Jeep, some of them have massive cracks that go all the way through them, in several of the ones I can see easily they have at least two large cracks and the chunk in the middle is pushing out and that whole side is flattened down. The only other rubber (or anything) on the whole Jeep that i've found that's also bad so far is the rubber bumpers on the spare tire carrier. I found a kit on eBay last night with all of those and new square end-cap fillers (though mine are still there) in a single kit for $12 so those should be here this weekend or Monday. Even though I can't make it rattle with my hand I'm wondering (hoping now that I've ordered a kit anyway) if that is the rattle I sometimes hear when I hit bumps from that corner.

If I mounted one in a console though that would also mean modifying the Jeep from original, it already has a nice matching factory floor console, the lid even matches the seats, and the key is the same key that the doors and lift gate uses. Also has nice cup holders and an area for other stuff, but no place for a radio.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 04:20 PM   #30
SouthernGypsy
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I'm really liking the sounds of the urethane body mounts but some people have said they ride rougher and transmit more vibration, I'm wondering just how much difference there really is. I was considering the DAYSTAR black kit (KJ04002BK) that you can pick up for $55 with free shipping, I noticed several people said that's probably the most complete kit on the market. I'd like to know the sizes of all of the bolts, I'd go to the hardware store and buy all new identical bolts in stainless if I knew the exact sizes of all of them, so never have to worry about them rusting as bad again (assuming they are). I thought I seen a list somewhere (may have been on this site) once that listed each of those mounts, the exact location, where it's easiest to access it from, and the exact size and length of each of the original bolts in each location. But now that I actually WANT to find that page, of course I can't, search didn't turn up anything.
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More Mopar Muscle Cars, Grand Cherokees, Cherokees, and ATV's than I care to count!
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