Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant
To start a carb engine with an automatic choke, you have to give the gas pedal at least one shot to the floor to both prime the carb with gas and allow the choke plate to close tight. In real cold weather, several shots may be needed. This should allow it to start up.
Having issues with a cold start and needing a prime means bad choke or upside down gas filter usually.
So be sure that the choke plate up top closes after giving it a shot to the floor of the gas pedal. If it stays where it is, it may be seized causing both your starting and high speed issues.
OK, just looked at that photo, the choke pull off is 'way' out of whack, the arm is all bent up stopping the choke from closing. This makes hard starts. I also can't see if there is a power wire going to that black cap on the valve cover side of the carb. This wire is needed to open the choke. If the choke is stuck where it is, there is your previous running problems. It needs to be closed to start and open to run or it bogs bad at high speed.
The gas filter sits level and has two outlets, the center one goes tothe carb and the top one goes to the return line.
If the canister is bad, then it can blow the idle totally off. I would first unhook the line from the canister to the PCV valve and block the line or just hook the PCV to the back of the carb for that test.
You 'can' set the timing with just the starter, not running. I use whiteout or chalk and mark the notch on the harmonic balancer and the 8 deg mark on the engine side scale so I can see them easy, then have someone turn it over while watching the timing light. It will still flash at the right time for a start so you can get it real close, then fine tune it after it gets running. The timing will change when it runs, it has two timing circuits, one for start and one for run.
They normally just start right up after a Nutter bypass though, did you change anything else or loosen off the distributor? OOPS, you put a new distributor in also??? (reread the thread)
There is always issues when you take a bad runner and severely modify it. If the mods weren't part of the bad running trouble, you may just add to your misery by introducing a whole pile of new variables. Some folks can not get them to run after the nutter, some (lots) of folks especially can't get them to run after new distributor, etc.
What kind of distributor did you put in? Did you make sure the rotor got clocked so it points at #1 wire post when the engine is at #1 on the compression stroke?
Those carbs (or 'any' carb) are supposed to get a tune up kit put in them every major tune up or every time you need sparkplugs. most folks don't do this. A carb kit runs about $20.00 and is easy to put in and really should be done before the nutter bypass.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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