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Unread 06-08-2010, 02:05 PM   #1
abernut
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Vacuum Lines after Nutter Bypass

This site has provided a wealth of info so far.

Mike (mmerlina) has been a great help.


I recently bought a 85 CJ7 with the I6 258.
Right now it runs like poo.

I have found a lot of the vacuum lines have been cut or plugged. I was originally going to reconnect all the lines back to stock. But after realizing that it was going to take a lot more than just some hose lines, I have decided to do the Nutter Bypass.

The electrical seems pretty easy.
Can anyone give me an easy "noob" guide to the post-vacuum lines configuration.

What needs to be plugged, re-routed, yanked out and thrown away, etc.

Thank you.

Mike A.

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Unread 06-08-2010, 03:10 PM   #2
VACJ7
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It really depends how much of the emissions stuff you plan to leave in place. This site has great info on how everything ties together. Table of Contents
In the "what controls what" section, you can ditch everything controlled by the computer or feed the computer since you bypassed it with the Nutter.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 08:28 PM   #3
abernut
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I just want it to run strong (highway/light off-roading)
There are no emission laws here.

Here is what I got done tonight.

I rerouted and connected the new wires. Using a drill to twist the wires was a great idea I got from this site.

Then I was getting ready to start on the vacuum lines but noticed someone had cut and plugged a lot of mine.









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Unread 06-08-2010, 08:38 PM   #4
LightWalker
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I'm interested to see what kind of responses you get. I've got a new-to-me 86 model that needs some vitamins under the hood. The Nutter looks like a good place to start.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 08:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abernut View Post
This site has provided a wealth of info so far.

Mike (mmerlina) has been a great help.


I recently bought a 85 CJ7 with the I6 258.
Right now it runs like poo.
Please define "poo". Greater detail of your symptoms would help greatly.

Is the problem at idle, cruise or just everywhere?

You could still have dirty idle tubes, ignition issues or a vacuum leak somewhere?
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Unread 06-08-2010, 08:43 PM   #6
abernut
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yea, it seems like it should make my new-to-me 85 CJ7 run a lot better. Right now it is struggling. I got all the way up to 60MPH today...and this is with my foot glued to the floor. And I am only running 31X10.50s

This would of probably been a lot easier if someone before me didn't screw with all the vacuum hoses.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 08:50 PM   #7
abernut
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It just doesn't seem to have any power.

I do hear a lot of blowing or sucking under the hood. (besides the fan)

I started the Nutter Bypass this evening. Completed the electrical.
I looked over the site you suggested.

So I can disconnect all of the following:
Carburetor Fuel Mixture
Ignition Timing
Pulse Air System
Idle Speed (Sol-Vac)
Altitude Jumper Wire
Knock Sensor
Coolant Temperature Switch
Oxygen Sensor
10" & 4" Vacuum Switches
Thermal-Electric Switch
Wide Open Throttle Switch

And make sure the following is connected properly:
Air Cleaner Air Doors
EGR System
Electric Choke
Manifold Heater
Evaporation Canister
PCV Valve
Decel Valve
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Unread 06-08-2010, 09:05 PM   #8
VACJ7
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The things controlled by the computer are no longer controlled after nuttering.

Carburetor Fuel Mixture
Ignition Timing
Pulse Air System
Idle Speed (Sol-Vac)

So you have to set idle speed and fuel mixture manually as well as ignition timing. Most cap off the pulse air system. Mine was missing.

The things that feed the computer become useless. Unless you want to clean up the engine bay and remove the computer harness you can just leave these items alone. They are not doing anything.

Altitude Jumper Wire
Knock Sensor
Coolant Temperature Switch
Oxygen Sensor
10" & 4" Vacuum Switches
Thermal-Electric Switch
Wide Open Throttle Switch

I kept my EGR and charcoal canister functioning used with the CTO. Even after I ditched the BBD and went with a MC2100 I kept them. The pic of your charcoal canister above has the purge signal vaccum line capped. So the canister will collect fuel vapor but without the signal, will not be sucked back into the engine to be burned.

I would definitely tripple check for vaccum leaks. Especially around the intake.
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Unread 06-09-2010, 05:25 AM   #9
Mike Romain
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These might help you:

Vacuum Hose Hook Ups - JeepForum.com

question about carter BBD
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 06-09-2010, 05:49 AM   #10
abernut
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I adjusted my throttle manually by removing the stepper motor from the back of the carb.

The write up I was following says "Adjust the stepper motor needles in the carb so that the shoulder sticks 1/8” into the carb" but I have also read a LOT of write ups that say to "pull the metering pins all the way out of the housing" or "fully extend the needles".

Which one do I follow?

Thank you once again.
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Unread 06-09-2010, 06:12 AM   #11
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abernut View Post
I adjusted my throttle manually by removing the stepper motor from the back of the carb.

The write up I was following says "Adjust the stepper motor needles in the carb so that the shoulder sticks 1/8 into the carb" but I have also read a LOT of write ups that say to "pull the metering pins all the way out of the housing" or "fully extend the needles".

Which one do I follow?

Thank you once again.
Putting the air bypass needles full into the carb is running full rich. Yes it will run like that but it will be a pig that blows black smoke on the highway and drinks gas. Like that original article said, it won't pass emissions that way.

It will run fine off road and at lower speeds because the idle circuit mix screws control the lower end mostly.

The computer runs these air bypass pins in the center of their travel which matches up with the high speed jet setting inside the carb.

I am the one that even questioned John Nutter himself on these settings. I have 'nuttered' a lot of 258's in both CJ's and YJ's over the years and all the ones I did had to still pass the emissions test on the ASM2525 dyno machine.

So I played with mine and a friends first and found I/we got great emissions numbers when running the air bypass pins where the computer ran them, in the center of their travel. Go figure eh. So I have done all the rest like that over the years with the same results. One gent even posted he passed California emissions with the wiring only changed and manually set tup, he left all the 'stuff' on.

We also all get over 20 mpg highway with one friend recently emailing me about getting a sweet 25 mpg with his stock CJ on stock sized tires. This is up from 15 before we started. he 'did' do a carb kit also which helps any old carb and his stepper was seized.

I just swapped over to a 93 4.0 HO engine and put that same old 86 BBD carb and intake on this engine and just got almost 21 mpg of mixed driving with some 4x4 use even thrown in there. 375 miles on a tank and still not on E yet. I like! Gotta check straight highway driving soon for mpg.
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 06-09-2010, 06:53 AM   #12
abernut
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Thanks Mike.
I will leave mine where I set them last night, with the shoulder approx. 1/8 from the rear in-side wall of the carb. I am assuming the shoulder refers to the point on the pin where it starts angling towards the tip.

These older jeeps should come with a warning..."Your significant other may leave from feelings of neglect" As soon as I get home from work I put my new 8 week old daughter in her swing, bring her out side with me, and stay under the hood until it's time for dinner.
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Unread 06-09-2010, 08:12 AM   #13
abernut
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I found where I was getting confused.

Here is how mine is set up. There is a single hose going to the Dist.


And in the write up he inserts a T connector.


Do I need to worry about where the line was originally going?
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Unread 06-09-2010, 08:22 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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Yes, you have to worry about it. There needs to be a T fitting there to send a line to the CTO valve which I can see with two open nipples on it in the first photo, down under the right side of the carb.

From the CTO, a line then goes to that missing one on the charcoal canister over on the drivers side firewall.

Forget about the vacuum canister over under the battery, it is now trash.

The two capped lines on the carb are supposed to be capped now.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 06-09-2010, 08:51 AM   #15
abernut
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This is my CTO Valve correct.


If so, there is nothing connected to it, maybe another reason my CJ is lacking.

Can I follow this schematic to hook up everything I need with the Nutter By-Pass


Thanks mike.
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