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Unread 03-10-2015, 09:48 PM   #1
I6CJ7
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Upgrading axles, what width?

What width and strength axles would you recommend or are running yourselves?

I'm wanting to be comfortable on 35's to 37's with wreckless abandon.. Simply because i drive my CJ7 everyday, as well as to and from the trails. Currently rocking the stock 30/amc20 with 33's and an sm465. No point in dumping money in those.. I'm thinking a high pinion 9" front, and maybe a dana 60 rear? I'd like to keep the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. And be able to run 15" wheels, so no giant discs. As for width I'm thinking about 61"? That's the stock JK width, should be good for a CJ I'd think. Price is an object... I may go with a crate frontend of i can't find something simple and easy. since the front is the most important to get right.

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Unread 03-10-2015, 09:55 PM   #2
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If you do go Dana 60 in the rear, make sure it is 35 spline and not 30. Staying five lug is going to require some custom parts and a HP 9" in front is also going to be 100% custom.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 11:11 PM   #3
I6CJ7
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That's what I've been reading. Lotta 30 spline 60's floating around... Not worth it.
Yeah, Hi-9" is custom, I'm open to all ideas on this. 44's seem only marginally stronger than 30's. I like the 9"s for being 70lbs lighter than 60's and also being upgradeable to 40 spline axle beef.. And of course 3rd members are easy to work on.
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Unread 03-10-2015, 11:24 PM   #4
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I have a currie rockjock 60 for sale! 35 spline, chromoly, air locker. 60"WMS, 5x5.5 bolt pattern too!

Oops
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Unread 03-11-2015, 02:13 AM   #5
I6CJ7
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I just might be interested, tried to send you a pm but your box is full. Pm me your email?
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Unread 03-11-2015, 07:05 AM   #6
orange150
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Not sure if you're interested, but I've got a front D44 out of a ScoutII with 4.11s for sale: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/...4-11s-2961705/
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Unread 03-11-2015, 07:29 AM   #7
HackFabrication
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I6CJ7 View Post
What width and strength axles would you recommend or are running yourselves?

I'm wanting to be comfortable on 35's to 37's with wreckless abandon..
A couple choices depending on how much money you want to spend...

Stock widetrack width is good. Wider will get you a bit more stability, but will push the tires outside the body. Install bigger fender flares and they're covered. But personally, I don't like the look of the large flares. However, if your local laws prohibit tires from being outside the body, you have no choice.

Although Dana 44's would be okay, the wreckless abandon statement raises issues...

Custom Dana 60's would fit the bill. Dana 70 or 14 bolt is overkill.

Ford 9" front/rear. Currie still supports the CJ platform and sells axles:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...frontends.aspx
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...axleparts.aspx

Dynatrac used to support the CJ platform, but as many aftermarket mfg's, they have moved on to the TJ/JK platforms.

This is the company that rebuilt/regeared/upgraded my stock D30/AMC20 axles: http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

Obviously, they can make pretty much whatever you want. I'd also consider going to a different bolt pattern/spacing and run 17" wheels.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 07:35 AM   #8
j33pman
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a set of Scout 44's would get you to around 60" WMS and cost a lot less than a high 9 and a 60 combo.

It all depends on what you want to do with it, I'm getting ready to build one myself with 4.56's and an ARB
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Unread 03-11-2015, 07:51 AM   #9
Solidkm
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While I agree the 30 spline rear 60 is less desirable it will work. Don't forget the full floating aspect of the equation. The shafts are still 1.30/1.31 inch same as the 8.8 except there isn't any weight on the shaft thus lessening the load.

If you found a deal on a 60 you could run it and then upgrade to 35 splines down the road. Again only if you found a screaming deal and the width you wanted.

Beware of some front hp9s. They are really the TC8.8 ring gear. Which is still no joke
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Unread 03-11-2015, 09:13 AM   #10
1tonmut
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14 bolt rear and dana 60 front combo is cheap and strong , the 14 bolt full floater can be set up at 63 inches wms to wms with the right hubs , they are easy to find and cheap as dirt and practically bomb proof , they are just about the easiest gears to set up and a 14 bolt can be built and set up with disk brakes for a few hundred dollars.
If you use a dana 60 front to match then the drivers side needs shortened 4 inches and the passenger side perch that's cast into the casing will then be in the correct position to center the axle housing ,so you only need to weld on one perch on the drivers side and the width ends up at about 65 inches wms to wms .
So you end up at 63 inches in the back and 65 inches up front but you would have to change to bigger wheels than 15 inch.
They can be found in matching front rear sets in 4.56:1 on the cheap.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 11:30 AM   #11
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The only issue with the 14b is the pumpkin is huge! So you need a good size tire to warrant it. But yes .... Cheap and strong. Great option. The hubs he was referring to are the cab and chassis hubs. They will put you at 63". You could run cheap H2 wheels too. They are 8 lug and 5.5 back spacing.

Also... If you decide To go big .... Check out a pair of axles from a military GM CUCV truck. 14b rear. Pass drop LP60 4.56s and Detroit lockers front and back. That's a banging set up on the cheap.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 11:44 AM   #12
I6CJ7
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14 bolt is just too big and heavy. You need 40's to justify running that low hanging pig. Plus then i think it'll start handling more like a truck than a lightweight jeep. Not to mention, the ole 258 isn't going to like lugging around that monster weight.

I hadn't considered full float rear or not, i know it adds weight but also considerable strength. I could see that being useful in the future as things get added. Current plan is a selectable locker in the rear and and open front. I've been able to go almost anywhere with open diffs and a smart skinny pedal. More fun that slowly crawling over everything haha. I think a Hi-9 front is what I want. But I'd consider a 60 for the right price.

You talked about adding just a spring perch to the driverside. But I'm going to stay spring under, and all the 60's I see have the cast perches for spring over. How does one fix that? Machine shop? Or use the flame wrench and torch/grind it down to add a perch to the bottom?

I also know i shouldn't let wheels dictate my axles, but I just got some new ones that are 15x9 3.50 bs, that i reallllly like. So I'd like to continue using those. They kick the tires out a good bit now and throw mud just going down a gravel road... So i am concerned with wider axles and these wheels.... I too hate the look of the wider plastic CJ flares. Just looks funky... So crawler fenders of some sort may be in order, or at least something that can be thrown on for the trail.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 11:52 AM   #13
Solidkm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I6CJ7
14 bolt is just too big and heavy. You need 40's to justify running that low hanging pig. Plus then i think it'll start handling more like a truck than a lightweight jeep. Not to mention, the ole 258 isn't going to like lugging around that monster weight. I hadn't considered full float rear or not, i know it adds weight but also considerable strength. I could see that being useful in the future as things get added. Current plan is a selectable locker in the rear and and open front. I've been able to go almost anywhere with open diffs and a smart skinny pedal. More fun that slowly crawling over everything haha. I think a Hi-9 front is what I want. But I'd consider a 60 for the right price. You talked about adding just a spring perch to the driverside. But I'm going to stay spring under, and all the 60's I see have the cast perches for spring over. How does one fix that? Machine shop? Or use the flame wrench and torch/grind it down to add a perch to the bottom?

Check out the pictures on my build in the signature. Granted that's for a TJ. Can cut the casting and weld a regular old spring perch at your desired width
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Unread 03-11-2015, 01:06 PM   #14
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I've read the first post a couple times now and I am a bit biased but I'd recommend looking at Toyota axles. Full size diffs with 3.5 BS rims is going to be wide as a freight train. Toyota axles in stock form can take a pretty good beating with up to a 35" tire and since cost is of concern you can upgrade them as money permits.

You'd be changing bolt patterns but you can get a 59" track width with 1.3125" dia., 30 spline shafts (35 spline D60 shafts are 1.365"). Drop out third member with many desirable factory gear ratios available and tons of aftermarket support.

Thy only have an 8" ring gear but they have been proven to take a beating on up to 37" tires without a lot of work.

Just something else to ponder.
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Unread 03-11-2015, 02:17 PM   #15
Solidkm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore
I've read the first post a couple times now and I am a bit biased but I'd recommend looking at Toyota axles. Full size diffs with 3.5 BS rims is going to be wide as a freight train. Toyota axles in stock form can take a pretty good beating with up to a 35" tire and since cost is of concern you can upgrade them as money permits. You'd be changing bolt patterns but you can get a 59" track width with 1.3125" dia., 30 spline shafts (35 spline D60 shafts are 1.365"). Drop out third member with many desirable factory gear ratios available and tons of aftermarket support. Thy only have an 8" ring gear but they have been proven to take a beating on up to 37" tires without a lot of work. Just something else to ponder.
35 spline Dana 60 shafts are not 1.365"

And you can't put TOYOTA axles under a JEEP. That's like putting a dress on your son. I don't care how nice the dress is !

Jk!
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