U joint re-tard? universally challenged Help? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-20-2009, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
spoonkilr
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U joint re-tard? universally challenged Help?

Ok so the drive shaft is out on the work bench(clips off) and used the socket method to get the caps moving....but one the cap clears the yoke I can't get the cap to slide off?? It is jammed ??? I believe the problem to be 1000 years of trail dirt build up on the joints? Am I missing something? I have replace ujoints before and never had this much trouble!!! more crud cutter???...more beer??? More hammer??? I appreciate your time!Bob
ps 86 cj 258

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post #2 of 12 Old 07-20-2009, 10:18 PM
1986cj
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More hammer? Socket method. I have always had good luck with sockets and a big vise if no press is around. Find a socket that fits the cap and one that is larger than the yoke end. Put it in a vise and press the smaller scocket into the joint and press the cap into the larger socket, This has always worked for me. I have never tried to hammer one out myself.
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 12:01 AM
jeepmaster03
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Hammer works with this method if no big vise or press. I used to do this a very long time ago. Try and soak with PB blaster, and apply some heat to the yolk of the shaft and then give it a whirl. If that don't work another beer sounds about right!
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 08:19 AM
jhebrew
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I was originally thinking bigger hammer but then I had a new idea. Check to make sure there is not any grease zerks hanging you up. Once all is clear, drive that puppy through all the way and pull the first cap out. Then reverse the process and you are good to go..... hopefully. Good luck
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 08:23 AM
ACAD_Cowboy
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Having just done the u-joints on my jeep, here is the quick and dirty.

The socket method is good for getting things started. Once you have the joint driven off center, flip it over and use the hammer and some PB blaster. You want to hit the yoke/shaft, not the cap. You don't even need to hit it hard, just enough to get the yoke to bob in your hand. This motion will cause the cap to "rise" in the yoke and eventually just pop out. The repeat for the other side.

Once you have the joint out of the yoke, dress the yoke with some 1500 grit wet/dry paper lubricated with some grease. This burnish the surface and make the new caps much easier to install.

To install, you have to take the two caps off the joint. Slip the bottom cap into the yoke then thread the joint in, then place the top cap on the top side. I find that a slight coat of grease make this whole process go easier. Lot a lot, just a dab rubbed into your fingers to slick it. To start, a good whump with a dead blow hammer and a socket with get it all moving. Then, like before you flip the shaft and tap the yoke or shaft depending on room. As before the cap will rise in the yoke, then repeat for the other side.

If you have access to a press this all becomes very easy, as you would just press them on and off. To center the joint, install the clips and repeat the tapping game while working the u-joint, you'll feel when the joint is centered as it will be really easy to swivel it.
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 08:32 AM
CSP
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Hitting the yoke is the best way if you don't have a press, provided you hit the yoke at the right spot. You don't want to come close to the ears around the ujoint. This method introduces a harmonic vibration which works the ujoint cap out. We got one out of some farm equipment once with this method that a 50 ton press wouldn't touch.

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 08:51 AM
ACAD_Cowboy
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And either a soft face or dead blow hammer. If you use a heavy hard face hammer, you run the risk of mushrooming the yoke or the cap. A mushroomed yoke is a PITA to fix as you need a reamer or broaching tool and about a weekend of free time.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 09:48 AM
Ziptie2k2
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Had one somewhat like that once, I torched the center section of the u-joint out, and beat each piece out separately. Of course I allowed the shaft to cool on its own.

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post #9 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 11:16 AM
JeepHammer
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The big question is...
Is this U joint being serviced or replaced?

If it's a replacment and you don't care about the old joint,
Push one cap out as far as it will go one way,
(Yes, hammer on the arms alternately so you don't wedge the cap that's pressed 'IN' as it's going out....)

Then use the arms sticking out to drive the punched in cap out as far as it will go...

Then the body of the U joint will clear the caps,
then you can bang away at the caps (punch them 'IN' until they fall out) or use something to punch them ahead 'OUT' of the yoke.

Remember, almost ALL U joints have a heavy pad on one side for a grease fitting.
If you drive that heavy pad 'Down', it will hit the yoke before the cap clears on that side and the cap won't come all the way out.

Leave that pad 'UP' while you are driving, and the other side of the 'X' will punch the cap all the way out.

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post #10 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 12:16 PM
OMR
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I'll vote for more beer - more beer always fixes everything

otherwise, what everyone else said should work!

Mark

'86 CJ7 - 258 - Howell - 'Rushed' - 2.5" sl, 1" bl - T5 - d44 rear - 33 x 12.5
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
spoonkilr
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I praise the men of the forum

Well gentleman...before I could Read any of the responses last night I got impatient and opted for more BEER and....Bigger hammer!!!! all the suggestions I just read is basically how it went down!! The joint were in need of desperate replacement. I beat them in to submission without jacking up the yoke! Through some scrapping probing..spraying and scrubbing..I beleive the joints were the originals!!!yikes I would like to buy beers for everyone who is so helpful on here everytime I go re-TARD!! thanks again you guys!!Bob
anybody know the napa part number on the ujoint for an stock 86 driveshaft?? it is going to be a trail spare!
Tom Woods is making a stop in my neiborhood soon!!figuratively speaking
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-21-2009, 09:41 PM
OMR
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See - what did I say ... beer always works

Don't know the part number, but you can look it up on line - try the Napa web site, or the other online suspects ....

Try an fork over the money for a good quality joint like Spicer(sp?) or something.

Do be careful with Napa though ... I bought some u-joints for my Dodge off-roader .... they didn't fit, I even took the joints and the drive shaft to Napa (our local one will press them for a small charge ... even they couldn't get them to work ... cheap import crap .... )

Good job on not messing up the yoke ... easy to do ... clearly your not the tard you think you are



Oh, and since your in Kali. you can buy a beer anytime we may meet up ...


Mark

'86 CJ7 - 258 - Howell - 'Rushed' - 2.5" sl, 1" bl - T5 - d44 rear - 33 x 12.5
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