[CJ Chet]

Originally Posted by bdmonist

One stick controls the front and the other controls the rear - Hi - N - Low for both. You have to remove the pills(interlocks) in the TC in order to get Front High only. This will however allow you to accidently put the front in high and the rear in low which will explode your case.

You can modify the shift rail without actually removing the pills. Here's a link:

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi

[NHwheelin]

Heres a link to do a twin stick conversion for cheap money
http://7slotgrille.com/tech/twin/index.html
i am going to try it on mine in a few weeks.

[hansw3]

Good article in 4x4wire. Thanks for the link! A little scary to think about grinding on the shift rail, but I do have a spare D300 just in case.

[OldSailor]

Originally Posted by 82cjman

on the d 300 with the twin stick can you put the rear in neautral an front in high

Without modifying the D300 itself, you can get the following combinations with a twin-stick installation:

Rear wheel drive - high range
Rear wheel drive - low range -- only with a twin stick
Four wheel drive - high range
Four wheel drive - low range
Front wheel drive - low range -- only with a twin stick
Neutral

You cannot normally get front wheel drive high range. There is a detent inside the D300 transfer case that prevents the front axle being in one ratio and the rear axle being in a different ratio. That same detent prevents the transfer case from going into front wheel drive high range.

You CAN get front wheel drive high range by going inside the transfer case and removing the detent. However, you will no longer have the safeguard against different ratios selected for different axles.

About the only time you'd need front wheel drive high range is if you damaged your rear driveshaft and wanted to drive home on the front axle. In that case, you'd be better off just removing the rear driveshaft and putting the transfer case in four wheel drive high range.

If you have a full floating rear axle with lockout hubs, you can get front wheel drive high range by putting the transfer case in four wheel drive high range, locking the front hubs, and unlocking the rear hubs. But your rear driveshaft would still turn in that instance.

[CJ Chet]

If you do the shift rail mod in the link above, you will be able to get front-wheel-hi and still have that safeguard.

[hansw3]

Took my spare D300 shift rails out last night. I'm going to try grinding the flat spot in that one first and seeing if it works before modifying my short output shaft version. I allready have the transfer case out having just replaced all the seals. I probably don't need Front Wheel drive high, but I want bragging rights...

I would not removed the "pills". No way would I trust a buddy or anyone else to not shift front and rear axles into different range. I would just not be comfortable with that.

[CJ Chet]

WOW! You let someone else drive your Jeep! (Not even my Wife!)

[hansw3]

Just a little with a close eye. My buddy did over steer it and almost slam into some parked cars one time now that I think of it. I would probably be the most likely candidate in screwing it up anyhow. NO WAY is my wife trying to drive it though!!

[BESRK]

The need to be able to use Front Wheel High would be rare. If you had a rear driveline failure, you'd still have to remove the rear driveshaft or it would be spinning via the rear axle. In that case, you could just use 4 Wheel High. On the trail, I use Front Wheel Low quite a bit. I would just install the twin stick and call it good.

[hansw3]

I followed the procedure listed in link posted by CJ Chat. It works great.

[RARECJ8]

the only read advantage to twin sticks is the ablility to burn the front. this for most recreational wheelers would likely not be needed. W/ a standard D300 one may still get 2lo in the rear- just engage low range and leave front hubs unlocked. A alos run a klune-v under drive for more gearing options.

That's it, no other real advantage.

Once on a steep trail ride i was in low range and both ARBs engaged-- about 3/4 to the top of the long climb noticed the front tires were not spinning lke the rear-- oops, i was in 2lo and locked, so you can go a long way like that and not even need the front. Still, its better to have all 4 pulling than not and yes, front burning is helpful is rare occasions, i just doubt the $$ and time needed to gain an extra lever and for rare use.

JMO

mb

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by muddmonky

i have herd about people puting a "twin stick" in there t-case. what purpose does it serv if any.


and if its worth it can u put one in an automatick 1980 cj7 with a d-300 t-case.

Last question first...
Not hard, easy to do, and only necessary if you are going to do 'Digs' either front or rear...

Add an extra stick, I used the factory one, and whip up some shift rod end sockets,

I stole these pictures, but they are better than I take anyway....

Longer bolt to hold the extra stick,



Another shot of that,



The only real fabrication,



Pictures are worth 10,000 words in this case...

[Cherokeester]

I use my twin sticks often. I like having the all the options. I also have the Tera-low kit which I HIGHLY recommend.

[John N]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

The only real fabrication,



Pictures are worth 10,000 words in this case...

That picture is one of mine and a set I made. It's a bit different than the ones on 7slotgrill. I added those tubes to stabilize the plate on the shift rod, there's zero slop in the plate, when done this way. The tubes are just bushings out of the hardware bins at Lowes.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by John N

That picture is one of mine and a set I made. It's a bit different than the ones on 7slotgrill. I added those tubes to stabilize the plate on the shift rod, there's zero slop in the plate, when done this way. The tubes are just bushings out of the hardware bins at Lowes.

Sorry John, I couldn't remember where I got the pictures, but they have guided me on more than one Twin Stick upgrade!

OK, Picture credit to 'John N'!

Like I said in my first post, I swiped the pictures, and couldn't remember who posted them originally, but the concept works GREAT!
Even the shaft stop on the pivot bolt works well!

I picked these pictures up 4 or 5 years ago, (From John N, thank you again!) and they really opened my eyes on how easily this could be done!
We were buying the shifters with remote cables before this!
This is Just TOO easy!

I didn't want to post them on any web site until I found out who took them...
But a BBS forum is a little different!

Do you mind my using them? If so, I'll remove them from here...