With it you can have the front axle turn and free spin the back.It helps with crawling around things like trees or whatnot. Same with the back one,so you don't have to unlock the hubs. Makes wheeling even better than hitting the gas and holding on.
Twin sticking allows you to opertae each axle indepentantly. You can have 2wd low front only, 2 wd low rear only, 4wd low, 2wd high rear only and 4wd high. U can also gain 2wd high front if you remove the interlocking pills from the shift rails. But beware because you can accidently shift 1 axle into high and the other in low if you remove the interlocking pills.
1980 CJ 7--3" Black Diamond, 1" body, locked both ends, 4.56, 35x12.50x15 SS LTB, "family" cage
OK, so I have figured out that you can change your single stick Dana 300 to a twin stick. My question is way, what advantage does it offer? Is it just a cool thing?
For 90% or more of us it's just the 'Cool Factor',
Unless you have lockers front and rear, really big tires and get into really tight places, you won't have to do a front dig to get out,
And most of us don't have front axles/driveshafts that will allow you to do a front dig without breaking something.
Front digs are normally done when you have a really tight turn to do,
And the Dana 30 front end won't take a hard front dig to make turns like that without breaking lockouts, U joints, drive shafts, ect.
Remember, full on lockers don't turn very well, and large tires makes it MUCH more difficult,
And in the situation of a front dig, you usually have to turn the front wheels to full lock then hammer the throttle to drag the front end around.
That will kill front axle U Joints (and sometimes ball joints/splinles) faster than you can replace them!
Front digs are cool on flat land, set one rear brake, nearly piviot around a rear tire, but it's impractical for most highway/trail riding, and it's worthless in deep mud since you will just sink the front end trying to do a dig most times.
The exceptions are rock crawling when you are trying to get TIGHTLY around an obsticle or mud bogging when you need to 'Slip Steer' the front around...
I've done twin sticks on my trail jeeps, but never really found a need for it since every time I try it with a D-30 I break parts,
The climber is a different story, but no one in their right mind uses a D-30 in the front of a climber...
Actually, the front axle failure due to playing with twin sticks was the motovation for upgrading the front axle in what later became the climber.
Front wheel only drive is good to limp back to the trailer when you wheel hop and break the rear drive shaft or break a rear axle...
Depends on your transfer case how easy it is to do.
Getting the shifter rail from an IH Scout makes it a snap since you get the rail that works great, and you get the extra shifter at the same time...
There are kits made for about every transfer case if you buy aftermarket and don't scrounge for the parts...
For me is was the ability to actually shift the D300 without having to stop and rock it back and forth for 5 minutes. With the twin stick I can shift the front axle in and out as needed without even having to come to a complete stop. I shift the front axle out to make sharp turns then put it back in to keep going after rounding the turn. I use this a lot on the trail. Before I got twin sticks I could hardly shift my D300 at all. It would get stuck in gear.
Mine has already paid for itself, dropped the rear drive shaft when the rear yoke on it shattered, put the rear axle in neut/ wired the drive shaft up to the frame and threw the transfer case into front 2wd high and drove home.
85' CJ7, 258 I6, "Team Rush" Weber 38/MSD 6A, T-176 4-speed, twin-stick Dana 300, DANA 30 fore - AMC 20 aft with stock 2.73 gears, 31" tires, 8k winch, "Dirtworx" rear bumper/tire carrier. My Daily Drive, JustEmptyEveryPocket
Its a cool factor my father installed on the jeep but you have to make sure its in 4hi all the way had it jump oout a few times and causing me to get stuck . so now i make sure eachstick is all the way back for 4 hi
What you do not get to choose is 2Lo at all or 2H or 2 Lo for the front axle alone.
This is incorrect. You do get 2 low front only as well as 2 wheel low rear only. When you twin stick you get everything excelt 2 hi front only. UNLESS you remove the interlocking pills in the shift rails, internally within the t-case.
To touch on what some have said. There is the cool factor but for me, it allows me to drive around easier on the trails without having to back up to make alot of turns. I primarily stay in 2 low rear only for the trails. I then engage the fron axle for each obstacle I need 4 wheel drive.
So the primary purpose for my twin stick on my d300 is for the turning radius since I am fully locked front and rear. And I paid about $100 for my Stainless Steel setup.
I'm not completely understanding the improved turning radius unless it is coupled with independent rear brakes (parking or otherwise). My only thought is that you guys are locking the e-brake and just letting the front jump and buck in the direction you want to go until you get aimed where you want it. If this is the case I would think that would be hard on parts.
Careful your character's showing