Turtle71's 83 CJ7 project - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Turtle71's 83 CJ7 project

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineSteering and more from Ruffstuff!The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!

Reply
Unread 04-13-2012, 04:33 PM   #76
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,781
I'm not sure they will self adjust the way they are now. Here is a good pic of the driver side without the axles in the way. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...l#post12567902

You can kinda make out the "L" for left stamped on the adjuster in my pic above. Under the star wheel it is also stamped "L" or "R".

__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2012, 05:02 PM   #77
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Ah, I see it. Will have to tend to that. Thanks!
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2012, 05:49 PM   #78
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,160
Looking good!

Yeah, the adjustment cam always faces the rear, just like the longer friction shoe. If you look close you'll probably notice your adjuster doesn't quite line up with the hole in the backing plate.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2012, 07:16 PM   #79
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Thanks!
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:43 AM   #80
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Correcting lift and OME YJ conversion (pics)

When I bought the Jeep, it had a shackle reversal, taller shackles and Rancho shocks and steering stabilizer. Not sure if the leaf springs are Ranchos or not.
Front Drivers side with Shackle reversal:


Rear drivers side:



Since the shocks seem to be bottoming out I was hoping to throw on some cheapies temporarily so Dad and I could drive and enjoy it a bit.
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:47 AM   #81
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Got alot of great and helpful responses at the previous thread I had (thanks guys) that can be seen here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/wh...-pics-1356348/

So it looks like we will need to correct alot of the previous owners home brew mistakes so we can get it ready for a real lift that will be safe.
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:49 AM   #82
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
I was planning on going with 32's or 33's at largest, and 2.5" OME YJ conversion possibly a 1" body lift if necessary. It doesnt have to have a shackle reversal system. No winch in the plans, but may use the hard top and doors in the short winters we have. Since we live in FL, theres not going to be any rock crawling in its future. I bought this for my dad and I to build together and have fun with. It will see a good bit of on-road use, but will also see some offroad trails and such from time to time. Let me know if I am leaving anything out that would make a difference.
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #83
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Originally posted ny LT1CJ7:
Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
I like and would recommend reinstalling a SRS since the spring mounts have been removed and something will need to take the place.
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Sh...1_2_7686_2.htm
Personally, the M.O.R.E. through the frame SRS is the best out there and it does not change caster.
Either way you go, It will require welding.
The 2.5" OME lift is a good choice, And you will need a 1" bl to clear 33's.
As far as rear shackles go, I'd check out Jim's. He's a local on here which makes a superior product.
http://crabtreetool.com/jeep%20products.html
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:53 AM   #84
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Do you think getting the shackle reversal would be easier than putting it back to normal?

Before you posted this, I had already sent Jim a pm since I have intended on using his stuff whenever the time came. This was his reply:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611
In looking at your pictures I have a few suggestions. Lets start with the rear.
1. You'll need to cut off the old factory shackle hangers. It'll be allot of work but it's pretty easy to do. keep in mind you've got a fule tank right there so be careful about safety. The only absolute way to prevent a fire is to take the tank off. That's your call, talk it over with your dad and see what he thinks. At the very least both of you need to be there so that while one grinds the other watches and is ready with a fire extinquisher. If you leave it on you might be able to shield the tank someway from sparks.

2. Do check the frame for rust and cracks back there. If it's too bad you may need to cut some of it out and replace it with new metal. It's a common problem to correct though.

3. You'll need a new set of the conversion hangers for your OME springs, great choice too. I'd use the 4" CJ style shackles for what your're doing. They will come with the proper bolts and bushings for what you'll need. The bolts will be greasable too and the bushings are Daytar poly ones.

Now for the front.
1. The shackle reversal in itself is a great idea but the person that did yours made some mistakes that are causing your driving problems. The factory set the caster angle to about 5 degrees postive, which it is best at. When the reversal was done they changed that angle and it's likely less. Which wreaks havoc on steering. If it were mine I'd take all of that off and go back with the shackles up front. If you do that there's more cutting and grinding to be done. You'll need to get the weld on spring mount, all of the bigger suppliers have them, and get that put back on. It's the one that holds the main part of the spring eye. They've moved everything forward when they did the reversal so some careful measuring is in order to get it back to the factory location. Sounds hard but it's not though.

2. Now you'll need to get the front reversal mount off. That's going to be pretty starighforward. About time something easier came along huh . Hopefully the factory bolt holes for the shackle hanger are not altered, I see no reason they'd have bothered them. Now it's just a matter of cleaning the frame up and bolting on the front conversion hanger. In doing that you will need to drill one extra hole on each side of the frame. Take a look at my build thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji.../index143.html on page 143 and I show this step by step. Use the same shackles on the front as you do the rear.

3. Sometimes when a shackle reversal is done the front driveshaft is shortened to keep it from ramming into the transfer case. Reason being is that the axle pivots towards the transfer case instead of forward like it does in the stock location. Check your driveshaft after you get everything back in place. It's likely they didn't change it since they moved the axle forward anyway though.

4. You existing spring plate is going to have to be modified for the wider front springs. The u-bolt holes are too close together and won't fit acroos the wider springs. You can do this yourself but I had a thought to run past you. If you like send me the plates and I will alter them for you, free of charge. I'll make sure the holes are right and everything fits. I need to do some research on a better way to manufacture some of these so this will help me out. I would also replace all of the u-bolts too. If you want be to line those up for you I can. I don't make them here but have a custom spring shop make them for me out of all USA stuff. Or you can order them online, whatever is easiest for you.

Hope this is helpful. I may have missed something along the way. If I were you I'd start a thread on correcting this as you go along. As you and I know we've got some great minds for help on here that are always right there to pitch in with great tips.

Thanks and enjoy your day!
Jim
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 10:55 AM   #85
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
For those of you who don't know already, Jim makes shackle hangers, shackles and kits that are of super high precision, quality and durability...not to mention they look great. All made here in the USA.

I'm going to try to start on this as soon as possible. Will be dismantling the PO's mess first, and them gathering all the necessary parts. Not sure what duty OME leafs to get, but will figure that out. Let me know if you guys have any tips or suggestions.
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 03:57 PM   #86
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
I guess the first thing we need to work on is cutting off and removing the old, welded on shackles and brackets. I have an angle grinder that I can put a cut off wheel on. Not sure if that the right tool for the job or not??? Also, may need to remove the gas tank first.
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-14-2012, 04:27 PM   #87
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,787
IN! I think you are making a good choice Turtle...
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #88
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Here are some more pics to show more of what I am dealing with. Trying to devise a plan of attack. Some things I can unbolt, others I will need to cut off somehow. Looks as though the rear crossmember/bumper was hacked up so I may need to replace that as well. Concerned about the steering box "skid" going away when I remove part of the front shackle reversal system. Also, I dont have a welder so I may need to farm some things out. What do you guys think?










__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-15-2012, 02:55 PM   #89
CoAce
Registered User
1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 325
Look into this..... You should try to figure out why they welded what looks like 2"x2" angle iron here.(yellow)
It is the cause of body damage.(red) It will also be a rattle / squeak if not corrected.
CoAce is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #90
Turtle71
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 565
Yep, I always intended to fix that crack when I finally got to the body. To me it looks as if they cut the rear crossmember on either side of the frame rails, then welded that piece on top. Shouldnt it have some body bushings in the area?
__________________
My slow 83 CJ7 Build:[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/turtle71s-83-cj7-project-1136836/[/url]
Turtle71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.