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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 01-16-2012, 07:47 PM   #46
Turtle71
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1983 CJ7 
 
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Location: Jacksonville, Florida
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A buddy of mine had a few hours of free time this weekend and gave me a much needed hand on the next few things. We used a regular floor jack on the ground and a ratchet strap hooked to the seat frames and routed through the tunnel cover hole and under the transmission for support. After getting a little help from dad and lining up the splines on the input shaft, it went in until almost an inch left to go. I remembered reading in MoC's thread among others about this same issue. Following his lead, I used the whack and wrench method. For those of you not familiar with this, you use a piece of wood on the back of the tailhousing and whack it with a BFH, then thread the bolts connecting the trans to the bellhousing and snug them up with a wrench, repeating this process until its done. Worked wonderfully! Thanks for this tip MoC...along with all my other questions via pm.


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Unread 01-16-2012, 07:55 PM   #47
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinstickd20 View Post
Glad to see your back at it again.
Thanks man, me too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Congrats on the progress. I guess I am not the only one building a new shed!!
Thanks! Yep, but we are just trying to catch up. You are much faster than we/I am...with the Jeep and the building..excellent work by the way! All in good time I guess.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 08:00 PM   #48
Turtle71
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Then the trans mount went on. Does it look like its in the right place??? Its a T5.

After that, the transfer case went on fairly easily in comparison.

Thats how it sits right now supported by jack stands. Hopefully I will have a few more hours tomorrow to do the driveshafts, skid plate, shifters and clutch linkage.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 08:10 PM   #49
twinstickd20
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Trans mount looks right.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 08:35 PM   #50
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looks like you have done allot of good work, keep it up.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 03:12 PM   #51
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinstickd20 View Post
Trans mount looks right.
Thanks for confirming...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjdogtoy View Post
looks like you have done allot of good work, keep it up.
I appreciate that...trying to keep it up now that the hard part is done. Just gotta find time.

Didn't have as much time as I thought I would today. But I managed to install the drive shafts, speedometer cable, transfer case vent hose and some of the shifter linkage for the D300.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 03:23 PM   #52
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Can anyone confirm what type of washers are pictured in the lower right of this diagram??? I'm guessing its 2 normal washers and 1 spring type washer in the middle. They go on the shaft that the shift lever is on but on the opposite side.
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Unread 02-24-2012, 05:18 PM   #53
Turtle71
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Finally had some time and got a few things done since I last updated this thread. We installed the rear crossmember/skidplate.

It was very difficult to line the bolt hole up with the proper holes in the skid. I read multiple threads on different ways to do this but none worked for us. Ended up doing an X pattern with the bolts at the 4 corners, rotating threading each of them in a little at a time. Then threaded in the the remaining bolts in the middle of the others and then tightened them all down. Worked out pretty well.

Next was the clutch linkage which went together pretty well until it came time to attach the clutch pedal return spring. The old one had broken when I had taken everything apart. The new one was much different the the original.

After doing a bit of reseach on the forum, I realized the new spring was for the setups which hooked to the back of the clutch pedal arm. Turns out that some CJ's had this and others, like mine had a different spring that attached through a hole in in the arm. I could not find one in the usual places, but in one of the threads I found, some members found a universal spring in the Help section of AZ or Advance. Sure enough, I found one that was almost identical to the original, just needed to be cut to size. I also used a little heat from a propane torch to bend a hook in the right area. I used the one on the bottom.


Next was the rear main seal which I suspected of leaking. I decided to do the motor mounts as well since I was going to have to take one out anyway to remove the oil pan. It looked like the passenger side mount was more in the of the oil pan so we did the drivers side first. When I removed the mount and bracket that attached to the engine, there was shim type plate in between the two.

From top to bottom: old mount, shim plate, new mount.
I asked around on the forum. Some members had this, some didnt. According to keith460, they are meant for additional strength. I cleaned them and painted them along with the engine bracket and reinstalled.


I know there are different ways of installing motor mounts, but heres what worked best for me. Since I removed the engine bracket as well, I simply dropped the new mount in the frame bracket, then took the shim plate and engine bracket and slid them in between the mount and the engine. The holes where the engine bracket attaches dont line up perfectly. So I loosened the bolts connecting the trans mount to the skid. Then used a jack underneath the bellhousing to carefully lift the engine until things lined up. Turned out to be alot easier than some of the horror stories I read about.
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Unread 02-24-2012, 10:00 PM   #54
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After removing the passenger side motor mount and the oil pan, the rear main seal was next. Sorry, didnt take many pictures at this point, but it has been covered many times by others here on the forum with better detail. I used the how to on MoC's build page for reference along with a few tips.


Wire wheeled and painted the oil pan.

Layed on the new one piece rubber seal and tied it loosely to the pan with sewing thread to keep it in place when reinstalling it. Used rtv in the corner areas where it looked like it needed it. Once I had it in place, I threaded in the bolts at the 4 corners, cut and removed the thread and put in the rest of the bolts. It seemed to take forever to torque them all. Next replaced passenger side motor mount, the bar between the frame rails, and the starter.

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Unread 02-25-2012, 01:19 AM   #55
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Unread 02-26-2012, 08:58 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC View Post
Thanks MoC!
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Unread 02-26-2012, 10:37 AM   #57
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The few times I ran the Jeep before doing all this work, the power steering pump was very loud and kept getting low on fluid. It looked pretty beat up. Covered in grease and looked like someone had pryed against the resrvoir to adjust the belt at some time and dented it.



In the pic below it shows where the hose fittings on the back are located. The return line seems to be different from others I have seen as well as the new unit I will be replacing it with. Normally the return line is routed through the triangular hole in the middle of the bracket. For those that dont know, the square hole above that is what you use to adjust belt tension. Just use a 1/2" drive in it for a leverage point.

It was obvious that it was on its last leg, so I decided to replace it, and clean up some things along the way. Wire wheeled, primed and painted the brackets and pulleys. Flushed the radiator, and used JB weld on a bracket that was coming loose off one side. Then painted it with a light coat of high temp paint and also painted the fan.


Next, replaced the upper and lower rad hoses. Found cracking on either end of the return hose for the power steering. Since it was extra long from the previous routing configuration, I just cut off then ends an got rid of the cracked areas which allowed me to reuse it with the new pump.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 01:41 PM   #58
Turtle71
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The battery tray was rusted through. After the new one came in I noticed that not all of the supports were included.

So I wire wheeled, primed and painted the old supports and painted the whole assembly to match.


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Unread 02-26-2012, 04:47 PM   #59
Turtle71
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As you can see I finally reinstalled the battery after charging it. Ready to start this thing up...has been a long time coming. Started doing my checks on fluids. Oil...check, coolant...check, PS fluid...check. Keeping some extra ready for replenishing when needed.

Poured a little gas in the carb. Turned the key and it starts up on first try..........and dies immediately. I noticed the key seemed to stick with the starter going and did not spring back, so I turned it off and tried to start again......nothing.

The key cylinder always felt a bit off and it was sometimes difficult to get it back to the lock position so I could get the key out. Tried to start it several times. Sometimes it would seem to click and jump past the start area. I could see the rod moving down on the column, but could get a hold of it to move it manually. The rod also seemed to have a slight bend in it.

Seems as though the issue could be in the cylinder area, but I read somewhere that the switch down on the column had a spring in it that is supposed to push the rod back (and in turn rotate the key counter clockwise) which mine was not doing so I decided to replace both the switch and the key cylinder.

After getting all back together its still doing the same thing!!! I have read about the sector gear and rack that is activated by the key cylinder, so this may be my next step. Got to figure out how to get to them first. Does anyone have any other ideas?
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Unread 02-27-2012, 04:20 AM   #60
Turtle71
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Here is a pic of the pieces I am talking about. I have the column torn down to the key cylinder, but not sure how to get to these parts. Anyone know how? Or should I try something else?
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