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Unread 03-14-2011, 01:15 PM   #16
JoonHoss
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I'll pull up a chair.

90 weight is fine in your D300.

congrats, and welcome to JF

Hoss

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Unread 03-14-2011, 02:26 PM   #17
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Nice find. Is that a mystic paint changing between blue and green? Also looks like you have a shackle reversal on the front end. Your rear shackles are also longer than stock. Stock shackles are 3" hole to hole so if you measure yours, the amount of lift is half the difference in additional length. So if your shackles are 5" hole to hole, they are 2" longer but that equates to 1" worth of additional lift.

For the camber problem, the destroyed bearing is a nice find. Out of all the things that can cause camber issues, a bad bearing is probably the easiest fix. To get the hub and rotor the rest of the way off, remove the outer bearing(sounds like it fell out in pieces), reinstall a single large washer and thread on a nut. Grab a hold of the rotor and pull it toward you. Sometime you have to give it a good jerk for it to pop off. You're basically dislodging the rear seal in the hub to get the entire hub/rotor assembly to come off.

If I misunderstood and you already have the hub removed and you have bearing metal embedded into the spindle metal, we really need to see pictures of how bad it is. Not sure if something like that can be repaired or if it will require a new spindle.
Thanks for that info about the lift. Will have to measure later to see. My dad just got this pic for me, of the spindle/bearing piece. The arrow points to what I believe is part of the bearing still on there.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Unread 03-14-2011, 02:29 PM   #18
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
I'll pull up a chair.

90 weight is fine in your D300.

congrats, and welcome to JF

Hoss
Thanks! We will be taking care of all the fluids soon hopefully.
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Unread 03-14-2011, 02:33 PM   #19
Coiz
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That is the inner race for the inside bearing. They should only be a light interference fit. You should be able to pull that off. Try a puller or a couple screw drivers prying at the same time. If worst comes to worst, cut across the face in a couple places with a die grinder and break it into two pieces.
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Unread 03-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #20
Turtle71
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Thanks for the tips. Will have to try them tomorrow. I forgot to respond about the paint. Its just a blue on the front that fades/changes to green. Not sure what it will end up once I get the rust spots fixed.
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Unread 03-15-2011, 02:34 PM   #21
Turtle71
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Had to resort to the dremel method, but its off now. Does the spindle look too scored to reuse? I definitely need to replace the hub as there are pretty big gouges in it where the bearing that came apart was riding. Anyone know if I can get a hub local?
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Unread 03-15-2011, 03:02 PM   #22
Coiz
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I'd probably clean it up and reuse it as long as the new bearing race fits like it is supposed to. Can't help you about finding a hub locally but it sounds like you are looking for #26 on this page, make sure you get the correct 5 or 6 bolt hub depending on your locking hub design. Promo code forum9 gives you 10% off if you end up ordering it through Morris4x4.
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Unread 03-15-2011, 04:58 PM   #23
Turtle71
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Nice! Its half the price of local stores even before the 10%! Thanks for the info! I know I'll need at least the inner bearing, the rest look fine but I'm debating whether to replace them all. Will also need the seals.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:10 PM   #24
Turtle71
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Its been slow going, but we got a few things done so I figured I would update the thread. Used some emery cloth on the spindle to smooth out a slight ridge created by the desintegrated inner wheel bearing. Refinished the dust sheilds and hubs by wire brushing them and using Rustoleum Rust Reformer and Gloss black engine enamel. Then with the help of a combination of kickingprop's http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/se...-pics-1037029/ and also Ken4444's http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...l#post11145723 I replaced the passenger side damaged hub along with inner and outer wheel bearing and races, inner hub seals, the cork seals for the outer locking hubs (they were cheap and i had to order parts anyway), brake rotors, pads, anti rattle clips, calipers and hoses. I won't do a write up on this one since it would be redundant to the threads mentioned above. Thanks to all that take the time to do threads like those they help a ton!

Here is the end result:
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Unread 04-26-2011, 09:27 PM   #25
Turtle71
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Now we will move on to the rear brakes to see if they are dragging like the fronts were. I plan on putting the rear of the Jeep on jackstands and spinning the wheels by hand to see how they feel.

Another thing I am contemplating is whether or not to go ahead and install the single diaphragm booster I pulled out of a 93 YJ.

Installing the booster itself doesnt seem too difficult, but I am unsure if I should use the old or new proportioning valve. From what I have found, some use the old and some use the new. Another shot:

I know its not a dual diaphragm, but figure it will still be a decent improvement over my current manual setup.

If anyone has suggestions, feel free to chime in.
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Unread 04-27-2011, 07:18 AM   #26
LSUtiger
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The single yj booster is fine. That's what i have. As for the prop valve, I used the old because it was a lot less work. Just take the lines off the old mc and bend them to the other side and bolt the new one in. No new lines to run. I also couldn't get the old prop valve off without damaging the lines to it.
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Unread 04-27-2011, 03:21 PM   #27
Turtle71
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Originally Posted by LSUtiger View Post
The single yj booster is fine. That's what i have. As for the prop valve, I used the old because it was a lot less work. Just take the lines off the old mc and bend them to the other side and bolt the new one in. No new lines to run. I also couldn't get the old prop valve off without damaging the lines to it.
Good to know. I thought I might run into some difficulties removing the old prop valve and replacing with the new. I'll probably just use the old one unless some one has info about the new one being a significant improvement. Picked up a coupler today to extend the push rod. Just need to find a die to thread the rod.
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Unread 04-27-2011, 06:12 PM   #28
Turtle71
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Took a look at the rear brakes today. Jacked up the rear of the Jeep and put it on jackstands. The drivers side was spinning more freely than the passenger side. Removed the wheels so I could pull off the rusty drums.

Drivers side came right off, but I had to coax the passenger side drum off by tapping with a hammer, wiggling and pulling by hand.

I believe the shoes on the passenger side were making slight contact with the drum causing it to bind. I didn't really notice anything that indicated replacement was necessary. What do you guys think?
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Unread 04-27-2011, 07:04 PM   #29
twinstickd20
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Dragging a little is not bad, put it all back together and go drive it and see how it feels, anything is better than the manual brake set up and the yj setup should work good for your needs. Looks like you have a good start (wish mine was in that good of shape when i started) and btw I remember saying the exact same thing about mine when i first got it and now 2yrs later and a little more than I like to admit invested, I believe my plans changed somewhere along the way but I dont regret it at all.
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Unread 04-28-2011, 12:22 PM   #30
Turtle71
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I've got family up in Nashville. I checked out your thread a few weeks ago. Your CJ looks nice! Wish I had some of your fab/welding skills.

Trying to get some things together to be able to put the booster in. I need to find a die that will be able to cut threads on the rod so I can extend it using a coupler. Also thought a small tubing bender would come in handy to get the existing hardline to the other side of the booster. I may end up bleeding it as is with the manual setup just so I can drive it a little while I am getting the booster ready. Does anyone know if the dies at Harbor Freight will be able to cut threads on steel?
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