Turtle71's 83 CJ7 project - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 186 Old 02-27-2012, 04:24 AM
doi
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Hi all,
I am newbie, need information about what is the different between gbox made by india and gbox made by usa i mean what is the basic different of them... Tks in advance

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post #62 of 186 Old 02-27-2012, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71
Here is a pic of the pieces I am talking about. I have the column torn down to the key cylinder, but not sure how to get to these parts. Anyone know how? Or should I try something else?
Not sure what is up with that last post but thought I would bring this to the next page so it might be seen and get some response.
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post #63 of 186 Old 02-27-2012, 06:17 AM
kvncot
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Not sure if this will help but check out Post # 763 from Ken4444 thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...l#post11745133

Easy's Good!
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post #64 of 186 Old 02-27-2012, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
Turtle71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvncot
Not sure if this will help but check out Post # 763 from Ken4444 thread. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ke...l#post11745133
Thanks for the help! Will check it out when I get to a computer later today.
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post #65 of 186 Old 02-27-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the links but the Fiero one is dead. Mine is a non Tilt version and appears to have the internal rack and sector gear set up differently. I've got mine down to this state right now (picture not actually my column).

Does anyone know how to get the upper column cover off so I can get to the rack and sector gear to to see if its causing the problem and possibly remove and replace it???
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post #66 of 186 Old 03-25-2012, 07:38 PM
amc75matador
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
Took a look at the rear brakes today. Jacked up the rear of the Jeep and put it on jackstands. The drivers side was spinning more freely than the passenger side. Removed the wheels so I could pull off the rusty drums.

Drivers side came right off, but I had to coax the passenger side drum off by tapping with a hammer, wiggling and pulling by hand.

I believe the shoes on the passenger side were making slight contact with the drum causing it to bind. I didn't really notice anything that indicated replacement was necessary. What do you guys think?
Brakes look to be new in this pic, the little horseshoe clip at 1 o'clock needs to be pinched closed bringing the ends together will allow it to stay put and keep it from sliding off the park brake retaining pin.

78 CJ7 Renegade 304, TH400, Dana30, AMC20 - RESTORING
88 YJ 2.5, 235/75R15s, softtop - DAILY DRIVER
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post #67 of 186 Old 04-04-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
Turtle71
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Originally Posted by amc75matador View Post
Brakes look to be new in this pic, the little horseshoe clip at 1 o'clock needs to be pinched closed bringing the ends together will allow it to stay put and keep it from sliding off the park brake retaining pin.
Sorry for the delay in replying...was not aware of your post until I went to update my thead. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll have to tend to that soon since I will be putting it on the road shortly.
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post #68 of 186 Old 04-04-2012, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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With some help from Skerr and mopar346, I was able to figure out how to get to the rack and sector gear in the column. Thanks guys!
Slid the rack out and pulled off the sector gear. Both looked slightly worn when comparing them to new ones I replaced them with. That being said I believe the majority of the problem was being caused by the weak leaf type spring (pictured to the right of the rack sticking up in the pic below) that puts pressure on the rack to keep it pressed down on the sector gear. Sorry for the blurry pic.


Since the spring was weak, when I would turn the key which rotates the sector gear, the rack would rise up until the teeth would lose contact causing it to skip instead of pushing the actuator rod and in turn, the ignition switch. I could not find a new spring anywhere, so I decided to try to re-arch the spring by bending it carefully. After we got everyting reassembled, it worked as good as new.
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post #69 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Since we already had things apart, I figured it would be a good time to refinish the corroded Grant steering wheel and try to get the horn to work while we were at it.
Before pic:

I searched a good bit, but found that there is not alot of detailed info on how the Grant horn mechanism works. I found some "how to" picture threads of Grant Steering wheel installs on various vehicles. With those and studying the parts we had and didnt have, we were able figure out how to do it.

Mine was missing a wire (pictured below) that has a metal, bell shaped piece on one end and a spade connector on the other.

That wire needs to be routed through the tube in the turn signal cam from the back to the front (see arrows in pic below) so that the bell shaped piece stays in contact with the metal ring on the backside.

Since that wire was missing, we had to fabricate something similar. The other end of the wire with the spade connector attaches to a prong on the top side of the fiber disc (2 pics above) that has a metal ring on the bottom side. This disc snaps up into the horn button which rides on a spring. When the button is pushed down, the metal ring on the disc makes contact with the steering wheel which activates the horn.
After pic:


Now the horn works....but it sure sounds wimpy! Oh well, will address it later. Other things need to be done so we can start driving/enjoying it a bit.
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post #70 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Next was installing the tunnel cover, shifter boots and knobs. The original cover was removed when we did the clutch, trans and transfer case. By the looks of the hack job on the shifter cut outs, I am assuming the Jeep had a body lift at one time. It looked like this after removal.

I had to peel off what seems to be some kind of adhesive bedliner type stuff before I could pry off the cover. Has anyone seen this stuff before??? It covers the floor completely. Not looking forward to peeling that off, but will be necessary for when I get to the rust repairs.


Found a used cover, refinished and reinstalled it with new trans boot. Cleaned up the original trans shifter knob and D300 boot since it was in good shape with no tears.
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post #71 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Happy to say, Dad and I were finally able to crank it up without issue and DRIVE IT!!!!

Clutch worked fine, trans shifted smoothly....and into all gears! Woohoo!
I was so happy with it I gave it a much needed wash.

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post #72 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 03:38 PM
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This was a very good day at your place!!
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post #73 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 04:05 PM
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
Turtle.... late to the party but was looking at the pic of your brake drum and if that is a pic of the driver side you have some things backwards. The self adjuster wheel should be toward the rear as well as the cable should be on the back shoe. The way it is now I am wondering if you have the right hardware on the left drum and vice versa.

Paul
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drumrear.jpg  

'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
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post #74 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Turtle71
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Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
This was a very good day at your place!!
It sure was! Driving it more did bring some other things to light. When going over bumps in the road, you would hear a "bang" as if the shocks were bottoming out. So this will probably be next on the list. The wander was not as bad as expected considering the size of the shackles.

I am considering replacing the shocks for a temporary fix to help the harsh ride. I intend on going with your shackle,hangers, etc. when I can afford to get the OME leafs and shocks.
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post #75 of 186 Old 04-13-2012, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Turtle.... late to the party but was looking at the pic of your brake drum and if that is a pic of the driver side you have some things backwards. The self adjuster wheel should be toward the rear as well as the cable should be on the back shoe. The way it is now I am wondering if you have the right hardware on the left drum and vice versa.

Paul
Thanks for pointing that out. This is how it was when I got it form the PO. Will have to figure it out as I have never done drum brakes. They seem to work well considering.
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