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post #151 of 186 Old 10-04-2012, 07:34 PM
Skerr
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Sexy!!!


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post #152 of 186 Old 10-04-2012, 07:41 PM
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Bigger tires, then you'll need lower gears, then you'll think why not get a locker. Then you think well if I'm spending that much I may as well upgrade the axles to Dana 44s or a set of Currie 9" or even some all out full blown Dana 60s with high pinions and ARBs on both ends! Then you'll want a different tranny! Then hydro assist steering! See how it happens. It's like cancer! It spreads! Next thing you know you'll wake up thinking about this stuff and just think it all started with some new springs.


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post #153 of 186 Old 10-05-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
Turtle71
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Yes Sir...the MAW's (might as wells). I am very familiar with this already and trying to keep it under control.
I have some axles with 4.10 gears waiting to go in. Besides that, the only other major things I will be tending to are the rust areas and repainting. But first up are the tie rod ends and an alignment to take some play out of the steering hopefully.

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post #154 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Sexy!!!
Thanks Scott. Looking better for sure.

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post #155 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Since I noticed some play in the steering a while back, I have tried to find things that could cause it. I tightened a bolt on the steering box bracket that was slightly loose. Then noticed the tie rod end on the passenger side of the drag link had some slop so I replaced that one and the one on the other end attached to the pitman arm which was a pain. Tried the BFH method of knocking it loose...then heat...then loaner tool pickle fork...then loaner tool puller...then combination of tightening puller and hammering in pickle fork underneath puller, repeating this several times FINALLY made it pop loose with a BANG! Then I installed the new drag link/ends.

After doing this I did one of the driveway alignment steps to set the toe closer to spec since it was out. I loosened the clamps on either end of the tie rod and and used a pipe wrench to rotate the tie rod. I was only able to get a few fractions of a turn on it before I ran out of threads on either end. It looks like the toe needs to come in a little more but it appears that the tie rod itself is too long (no more room for ends to pull in). Has anyone else run into this....or have any suggestions?

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post #156 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 05:44 PM
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No more threads visible on the long part of the tie-rod?

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post #157 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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No more threads visible on the long part of the tie-rod?
Unless I have my drag link and tie rod terms reversed. I have seen some call the the rod part between the two knuckles the "tie rod" and the part between pitman arm and passenger knuckle the "drag link". Is this right or do I have it backward?
I any case, what i am referring to is the rod between the two knuckles, not the one connected to the pitman arm. Rotating this is supposed to adjust the toe from what I have read.

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post #158 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71

Unless I have my drag link and tie rod terms reversed. I have seen some call the the rod part between the two knuckles the "tie rod" and the part between pitman arm and passenger knuckle the "drag link". Is this right or do I have it backward?
I any case, what i am referring to is the rod between the two knuckles, not the one connected to the pitman arm. Rotating this is supposed to adjust the toe from what I have read.
Yes you have it correct, how much is the toe off? Have you measured it?

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post #159 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yes you have it correct, how much is the toe off? Have you measured it?
Have not measured it yet, but I could see it was still out slightly. It is across town at my folks house so I'll have to measure it the next time I get over there. I was just surprised that I ran out of room for adjustment on the tie rod.

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post #160 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71

Have not measured it yet, but I could see it was still out slightly. It is across town at my folks house so I'll have to measure it the next time I get over there. I was just surprised that I ran out of room for adjustment on the tie rod.
Looks can be deceiving, the way I measure mine is take a block of wood or a concrete block and put one beside each tire then lay a 2x4 up against the wheel and tire so that you can have something to measure to on each side, measure in front of the tire then behind it.

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post #161 of 186 Old 10-09-2012, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Will have to check that out.

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post #162 of 186 Old 10-10-2012, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Here are some pics I took today to show how it looks now. Actually looks pretty straight.



Whats funny is, I took front and back measurements of the front tires and if they are accurate, it is actually towed in 3/4 of an inch now. It is supposed to be 1/8 to 1/4" from what I have found. I neglected to take before measurements since it definitely looked out.

All I can figure is, I may have been thrown off visually by the uneven tire wear that occured before I bought it and replaced the extremely worn wheel bearings.

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post #163 of 186 Old 10-10-2012, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention that I took it for a drive after replacing the drag link/ends the other day and again today. I noticed the steering definitely felt better since there was less play. I realize it may never steer like my daily driver, but feel like there is still room for improvement. The thing is, I have never driven another CJ for comparison.

I suppose newer tires with even treadwear will help, along with a professional alignment. Been searching craigslist for newer tires for months.

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post #164 of 186 Old 10-10-2012, 11:00 PM
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Some of the guys have good success setting there own toe-in. I did what you did, and I didn't like how it felt. I had it done at a shop, and it felt much better. Of course, this is on brand new tires, which makes a HUGE difference. I also recently changed out the steering box, which improved it 100%. Then, today, my son added a steering stabilizer, which I forgot we had! It further improved the steering. I can let go of the wheel, take a short nap, and the 5 runs straight down the road. Compared to my 7, the 5 is a little spooky! It is very quick to steer. You have to pay attention when driving. It might get less spooky with more time behind the wheel, as we just got it on the road. My 7 is night and day different. My 7 has a good steering box, all new bushings up front, new springs, bearings, etc... all new up front, and I can steer it with one finger. Literally. But it also has good tires. Yours look pretty worn. You have made all the same upgrades, haven't you?

Let me add this... after all that we did, and I KNEW it was all tight, Clay turned the wheel back and forth while I watched up front. That's how I discovered the steering box had loosened up even though it had been torqued. You should try that to see if anything at all isn't right. It is a sure-fired way to find an obvious problem quickly.

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post #165 of 186 Old 10-11-2012, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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I'll have to get recheck the steering box as I have not since we re-torqued it. Yes all bushings are new. Still need to change the sway bar links but don't think that would affect steering play. Where did you get the steering box?

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