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Unread 02-24-2013, 06:53 PM   #1
aufan
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: nashville, tennessee
Posts: 115
Tucking 35"s without cutting?

Is this possible? If so with what type of lift and is it worth it in terms of center of gravity to clear?

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Unread 02-24-2013, 07:12 PM   #2
bajaviking
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What are your plans for the Jeep, just transportation, mild wheeling, hard wheeling?
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85 CJ7 4.3L FI/700R , 4:1 Dana 300 and 3/4 ton diffs.
76 CJ7 6 cyl/t18/Dana 20 pretty much stock
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Unread 02-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #3
aufan
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My goal is a dual purpose jeep one that is road/ show worthy but will climb trails with the best of them. I currently have a 4" rough country lift with 33's. i would love to go 35's and have full flex for the trails. I am fortunate enough to have a jeep that was well respected and kept by its previous owners and don't really want to cut the body. I am working on a scout front axle now to swap for my Dana 30. My jeep is going to a custom offroad shop to get selectable lockers installed and new lift in a couple of weeks. I was fist thinking rubicon 4.5" lift but. From what I've researched I will rub if I go to 35's . After talking with the shop they suggested I go soa for better flex and a smoother ride than sua. Im Just worried about center of gravity. My gut is that to go to 35"s ill have to cut.
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Unread 02-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #4
VooDoo2
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35's will hit the body without cutting. Even 33's will rub. Front end isnt too bad but moving the diff forward helps. The rear you have no chance without a chop.

This is a 3" body lift and 4" suspension lift and it hits the body still.

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Unread 02-24-2013, 08:49 PM   #5
bajaviking
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With a 4" lift you will have have to either trim or extend your bumpstops(or both) to keep the tires from rubbing.

Or, tubefenders in the front and TJ flares in the back.
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85 CJ7 4.3L FI/700R , 4:1 Dana 300 and 3/4 ton diffs.
76 CJ7 6 cyl/t18/Dana 20 pretty much stock
"It ain't been so easy but I guess I shouldn't complain,
I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane"
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Unread 02-25-2013, 05:28 AM   #6
NoNative
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Pretty sure 35s will fit fine if you go SOA. Use the search tool to research what you're getting into if you go SOA. From the threads I've read, it can be a major project. I think 35s will fit with stock springs SOA. There are some crazy pictures of a CJ with OME 2.5 YJ springs SOA that are pretty shocking. You hsould be able to find those without too much digging. Good luck!
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1986 CJ-7 Laredo, 258, AX15, AC Dana 30/44, Ox Lockers, Howell TBI, DUI, 4.5" RE YJ Springs, 1.25" BL, clocked & twin-sticked Dana 300 with Lomax 4-1, 4.10s, 33s, PB, 8000# winch, YJ Roll Bar, Factory 20 gallon tank.

1984 CJ-7 Renegade, 258, T4, AC, Howell TBI, DUI, 2.5" OME YJ Springs, 3.53, 31s, PB, Warn bumpers & 8000# winch, Factory 20 gallon tank

1984 CJ-7 Renegade, 258, Auto, AC, 3.31s, PB, Factory 20 gallon tank, Bone stock except for 31s
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Unread 02-25-2013, 07:09 AM   #7
aufan
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I am having a custom offroad shop install my lift/selectable lockers/high steer/ build new double cv rear shaft. BELIEVE ME im in it ($$$) to do it right . Just trying to nail down exactly what lift/ tire combo to go with since they will be setting all the geometry (high steer, front axle pinion/caster/perch angles and rear axle pinion angle and rotating perches).

My Three:

Rubicon express 4.5 sua with 33"s maybe 35"s down the road
Stock spring soa with 33"s maybe 35"s down the road
Rubicon 1.5" soa springs and 35"s


Heres how my jeep sits now. My initial thought was to trash the Rough Country and go Rubicon Express but the shop is telling me the ride quality of a SOA done right is night and day better than i high arch lift.
side.jpg   front.jpg   rear.jpg  
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Unread 02-25-2013, 07:27 AM   #8
jeepwhore
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If you want 35's and full articulation without cutting the tub I'd say go SOA with a quality spring....I think RE makes a 1.5" lift spring that is meant for SOA applications. (stock springs will fatigue much quicker). I run 35's with a 4" BDS lift, 1" BL and 1/2" shackles. I haven't hit the tub yet......but it most definitely will if I really tried. I think the only way to do SUA and get what you want is too add a heinous amount of body lift.....

If you do go SOA make sure the shop thats doing the work for you addresses axle wrap with an anti-wrap device of some sort. Preferably one that doesn't limit articulation.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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Unread 05-13-2013, 11:33 AM   #9
aufan
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: nashville, tennessee
Posts: 115
So here is the finished product:

35" tires
Scout D44 up frount with high Steer
SOA with 2.5 " YJ Lift Springs
No body cut
I could probubly get 6" to 12" higher in this pic but didnt trust myself to driving up on top of the fender without a spotter.
5.11.13-001.jpg   5.11.13-003.jpg   5.11.13-004.jpg  
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Unread 05-13-2013, 12:13 PM   #10
74Maverick
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So an alternative option that i have yet to test(still waiting in brake lines. Is a lift kit I just finished on my cj5. I put 4"lift springs off the front end of a wagoneer/j10 from superlift. Brand new with the smallest leaf removed they gave me 6" more lift than my roomates cj7 with a 1" body lift. On my jeep they look sufficient to clear 35s you will obviously need different shocks, i have no rears yet but my fronts are 2.5" lift rear shocks and they seem to be perfect. With waggy springs you can also rotate them to stretch your wheelbase a total of 4". The front half is 24.5" and the rear is 22.5. Cjs are around 44-45" total. I dont know how it flexes yet but just jumping on it, it doesnt feel much stiffer than my 2.5 BDS lift did. I should have some pics of it out after next weekend
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