Tubs from the Philippines - Page 48 - JeepForum.com

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post #706 of 795 Old 02-21-2014, 11:11 PM
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCJ-5 View Post
I couldn't agreed more Fred. I am trying to set up a day for a friend of mine come over to see if my tub is in any way salvageable since I really don't want to go the aftermarket route. I'd still need to have a panel welded in to maintain the tailgate delete look.
Yeah, that's the problem with my tub....it is beyond salvage. I'd be lucky to get what Keith got for his old tub in scrap. Besides, who wants to get near a rusty old tub that smells like cat pee?


Fred
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1976 CJ-5
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post #707 of 795 Old 02-22-2014, 04:16 PM
momo2
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Just tried to bolt my fixed rear bench into my repli-tub. And i was not sucessful.
If i align the the rear seat bracket with the row of holes in the floor which is closest to the tail gate and, the front bracket of the seat is too much forward by at least two inches.

finger marks the hole




And here comes the question: Is the bolt pattern for the fold'n'tumble seat different from the fixed seat and md juan just put in the fold'n'tumble pattern?

Or is it the same pattern an md juan just put the holes in the wrong place?



The distance between the tailgate and the most backward row of holes is
14 3/4 inches.

The distances between this row an the most frontward holes is 19 7/16
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post #708 of 795 Old 02-24-2014, 08:22 AM
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I think I did read (or maybe saw in one of the videos) that the cowl section is hand formed and not stamped, but I can't be sure. It definitely looks had formed. My body was made in Nov. 2012 and was purchased from W/O. As far as the rear seat, I bolted my fold and tumble seat on just long enough to locate, mark and drill holes for the latched which mount to the wheel wells. I only used 1 bolt per side so now I'm wondering if the other holes line up. I'll try to check that this week. As for having to bend my hood, who knows, AMC might have bent it the other way to make it fit!

It still amazes me there is a company that makes Jeep bodies for us. And I will say that even with all the body work needed and drilling/modifying a few holes, I would buy one again and I would recommend the tub to a friend. If you think about it, you would have just as much fab work and filler if not more on a fiberglass tub. You would also have just as much on a factory tub or converting a YJ tub and you'd still have to deal with an old body where rust may have already taken a foothold.

I'm glad Rommel is here on the forum and working hard to make things better. You have to figure original OEM Jeeps are pretty rare in the U.S. and more so in the Phillipines, so good references are hard to come by. Combine that with the variations you get across all years and the variances in models that even came of the line together, how do you know what to use as a reference guide? A huge thanks to Keith as well for not only providing info to Rommel to make better bodies, but to us for use as a guide along the way for our restorations. That said, my cowl section is in great shape (don't think I wasn't tempted to splice the two bodies together) and I'd gladly ship it to MD Juan to keep for reference, though I'm not sure how practical that would be.

Keep up the good work Rommel, by the time my Jeep needs another body they will be perfect replicas!
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post #709 of 795 Old 02-24-2014, 11:06 PM
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Your build date of Nov 2012 makes me feel a little better GFox. That's when my tub was manufactured as well. Mine was drop shipped from Omix though so it has no modifications done to it whatsoever. I will have to get a set of wheelhouse baffles and also the formed area to clear the rear of the fuel tank is still available from Chrysler (used all the way thru the end of TJ production) so I will splice that piece in as well. I need to get the garage cleaned out and get to work I guess! I miss driving my Jeep!

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.


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post #710 of 795 Old 02-27-2014, 08:57 PM
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Can anyone speak to the quality of door fitment with the Repli-Tub? After using all-thread as a jig to space the hinges appropriately (12 3/4" on center) in order to mount the lower doors and make modifications to mount the strikers, I noticed the fitment isn't all that great. I've elongated the windshield bolt holes to get the hinges flush with the top of the tub and adjusted the hinges so the doors sit level, but it seems the door seals just don't sit right in the openings. I'm using a Bestop Supertop with 2 piece soft doors and it's not too big of a concern as they'll mostly be in place only when it is garaged and not driven. I'd like to see some pictures of full steel doors, half doors and soft doors. I realize the seals are new and will seat better over time (seals I put on my YJ with full steel doors last summer are getting much better) but I was hoping for the doors to sit more flush. I may try some steel half doors to see if they fit any better. This to me has been the most difficult part so far, followed by the Crown windshield. The price you pay for mounting aftermarket to aftermarket, I guess.
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post #711 of 795 Old 02-28-2014, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post
Your build date of Nov 2012 makes me feel a little better GFox. That's when my tub was manufactured as well. Mine was drop shipped from Omix though so it has no modifications done to it whatsoever. I will have to get a set of wheelhouse baffles and also the formed area to clear the rear of the fuel tank is still available from Chrysler (used all the way thru the end of TJ production) so I will splice that piece in as well. I need to get the garage cleaned out and get to work I guess! I miss driving my Jeep!
Keith mentioned in his thread that he had to splice in a piece in order to mount the gas thank. Is what your referring to above the same issue? The point where the gas tank shield attaches to the rear of body isn't correct?

Paul

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
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post #712 of 795 Old 02-28-2014, 06:19 PM
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No, that part on the bottom rear of the tub is now correct (though I'm not sure if W/O does this or MD Juan. Tonight I fitted the half doors onto my YJ and they really aren't fitting much better, so I'm happy to report that it's not an issue with the tub but just a poor quality door from Bestop.
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post #713 of 795 Old 02-28-2014, 08:42 PM
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I tried fitting my OEM doors to the Repli-tub I had and while the passenger side fit perfect, the drivers side had an ugly gap at the striker and below area. I tried adjusting it as best I could but it still did not look right so I scrapped the idea of using any doors at all on the Repli-tub. Still have my OEM steel doors in our warehouse at work sitting there collecting dust.

The new tubs are suppose to have the rear tailgate support corrected to clear the fuel tank. Previous tubs, like mine, had the piece straight across that interfered with the fuel tank. W/O use to cut of the the piece that interfered with the tank and I thought that was kind of sub par and weak rigidity. A boxed structure is much stronger than and thin angle piece that they were doing.

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post #714 of 795 Old 03-23-2014, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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New improvement on the CJ7 Flooring:


All for One at MDJuan!

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www.mdjuan.com.ph
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post #715 of 795 Old 03-23-2014, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RommelJuan View Post
New improvement on the CJ7 Flooring:

I'm going to have to go out and check my original tubs but I think the bolts were all 3/8" to begin with. 1/2" and 9/16" bolts are wayyyyy too big.

Good job adding the drain plug holes though.

How about the wheelhouses? Have the ridges been revised and the wheelhouse baffles with threaded holes for roll bar mounting been added?

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.


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post #716 of 795 Old 03-23-2014, 12:10 PM
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Ok I just went out and checked my YJ tub and also checked the factory CJ parts catalog. YJ and CJ rear floor pans are the same bolts and bolt patterns.


The front 4 holes (2 on each side) are 3/8"-16


The rear 3 holes are 7/16"-20


Those are used for mounting the seat belts on fold and tumble equipped and the rear seat bracket that also holds the seat belts on fixed seat models.


Also IIRC Keith had issue with the seat belt mounting threads on the B pillar. These are 7/16"-20 as well. (fine thread)

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.


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post #717 of 795 Old 03-23-2014, 12:17 PM
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CJ8 Floor

Rommel,
Does the CJ8 floor mirror these corrections and bolt patterns. Did you make the same changes to the Scrambler floor as well?

Thank you, Wallace
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post #718 of 795 Old 03-23-2014, 02:09 PM
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I'm glad to see that the bolt hole pattern has been ireoned out. I assume this effort will also reach the CJ5 tub? Also, the curvature of the cowl has come up several times lately, has that issue been addressed yet as well?

Paul

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
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post #719 of 795 Old 04-04-2014, 01:11 PM
kconnor123
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Anyone know when these fixes will be finished and a build run? How long till the dealers get em? Or are some already out there?

1978 CJ7 I6, 2.5" dik cepek spring lift, 0.5" shackle lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T 33's, 1.25" Wheel Spacers.

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Whats Next: Wide track swap, winch, new seats, eventually a 4.0 mpi swap from a 90's cherokee or wrangler.
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post #720 of 795 Old 04-04-2014, 01:23 PM
kconnor123
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Ok never mind, I just went back and read a chunk of these 48 pages and found they should be out there....

1978 CJ7 I6, 2.5" dik cepek spring lift, 0.5" shackle lift, Cooper Discoverer S/T 33's, 1.25" Wheel Spacers.

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Whats Next: Wide track swap, winch, new seats, eventually a 4.0 mpi swap from a 90's cherokee or wrangler.
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