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Engo LED Flush Mount Lights *PAIR* Flood or Spot 1,600 LumYukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon ZipRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits

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Unread 11-10-2013, 07:33 AM   #601
RommelJuan
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1980 CJ7 
 
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In the wake of Super Typhoon Haiyan slamming into the Philippines, relief organizations are calling on Americans to donate funds to their efforts.

HOW YOU CAN HELP

The American Red Cross has volunteers spread throughout the region and accepts donations online. You can also mail a check to your local American Red Cross chapter designating Philippines Typhoons and Flood in the memo line.

The U.N. World Food Programme is urging Americans to make donations to support its emergency food relief after Typhoon Haiyan. You can donate online or by texting the word AID to 27722 to donate $10.

AmeriCares is deploying medical aid and a relief team to Philippines, and says an emergency shipment with enough medical aid for 20,000 survivors is already on its way.

The Philippine Red Cross has deployed staff and volunteers across the region. You can easily make a donation through organization's website.

To donate to the Salvation Army's Typhoon Haiyan relief efforts, visit its website or text TYPHOON to 80888 to donate $10 and reply YES to confirm your donation. The organization uses 100% of all disaster donations in support of disaster relief.

Looking for someone in the Philippines area that is in your family or a friend? Google has launched a person finder for the storm, also known as Yolanda in the Philippines, where you can try and find out someone's whereabouts or enter your own information.

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Unread 11-10-2013, 05:05 PM   #602
momo2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post

No, sorry I don't. Never really took any pictures of the part about drilling the throttle hole and didn't notice I needed the outdent or dimple for the Heater until after it was painted.

Here's what I did if you can use your imagination.

For the throttle square hole, I used a 1/2 drill after locating the spot where it needed to be. After drilling, I hand filed the corners to make them square and test fitted the cable to make sure it fit like it was suppose too. Then, I purchased a long 1/2" carriage bolt where the square of the head fit through the new square hole. I put a large flat washer that just fit over the square of the carriage bolt, put the carriage bolt through the hole from the inside then installed another flat washer on the bolt on the firewall side. There was just enough of the square portion of the carriage bolt between the two washers that was in the sheet metal of the firewall. Then I screwed on a nut to hold it all together.

So what we have is:
a. Carriage Bolt
b. Flat Washer
c. Firewall Sheet Metal
d. Flat Washer
e. Nut.

Then we got out the MAPP gas torch and proceeded to heat the carriage bolt flat washers area until it was hot enough to bend the firewall sheet metal around the washers. Heat and bend until the correct angle was achieved without tearing the firewall sheet metal. Came out great and is very close to the OEM look.

Hard to see in the picture but the cable is installed in the modified hole.




As far as the heater unit mounting, it was one of the more difficult things to get aligned and drill the holes for the 4 mounting points onto the firewall. Careful measuring is all I can say to that! I think I actually used some clay that I stuck to the inside of the firewall and carefully mocked up the heater assembly where it would mount and pushed it against the firewall so the studs would leave a mark in the clay. Took the heater assembly out and used a transfer punch in the clay marks to mark the locations. I then used a very small drill to make pilot holes and checked the measurements distances of the holes so they matched that of the mounting studs of the heater assembly. It was time consuming to say the least but I got it done and maybe had to custom file the holes either a little bit so everything fit like OEM.

For the bump out or dimple, that I missed during mockup, I simply filed down the protruding shaft until it cleared the firewall.
Why would i need an angle or outdent for the throttle cable? I installed mine without and it seems fine.
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Unread 11-10-2013, 08:45 PM   #603
O1dSoldier
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New to the Forum - Interested in CJ5 Tub Improvements

Hi Rommell,

I have a '78 CJ5 (no tailgate) that I bought in 1987. I'm reseaching to do a full restore and have been going back and forth between fiberglass and steel for some time. Based on all the bad press I was leaning towards fiberglass until I stumbled on this thread the other day and I've read it with great interest.

I haven't seen much talk about the CJ5 tubs though. I'm assuming that all the various improvements have been carried over to the CJ5 tubs as much as possible but I haven't yet seen anything on the issue of reshaping of cowl to match the hood. Are those modifications in the works? Are there before and after pictures/diagrams of the CJ5 tubs as well?

I'm about 9 - 10 months out from needing a tub but when I am ready I would like to be able to order a tub that truly replaces my original without any modifications needed.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 01:46 AM   #604
RommelJuan
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Hi O1dSoldier,

There is a detailed discussion on the CJ5 Mdjuan tub in this thread:

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showt...ghlight=rommel

it is almost as spirited as this thread

Hope this helps.

Rommel
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Unread 11-11-2013, 04:34 AM   #605
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by momo2 View Post
Why would i need an angle or outdent for the throttle cable? I installed mine without and it seems fine.
The throttle cable is angled from the firewall to point upward like OEM.

The outdent is for clearance of a heater flap control axle shaft in the OEM heating unit.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 05:09 AM   #606
momo2
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So maybe the angle for the throttle cable is more important for the 258, which has the carb on the left side. My 151 has the carb on the right side an the cable is quite long, so there is no issue with that
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Unread 11-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #607
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Thanks Rommel. I'll check out the thread you mention.

I sent a note to Omix Support the other day asking general fitment questions and they replied stating -

"Our tubs are a bolt on solution for some one whose OE body tub is rusted or damaged beyond reasonable repair. There is never any re-engineering needed. some body work is needed to make them show room pieces but other than that they are a director bolt on option."

I responded back telling them that in my research I have found numerous online forums telling of a large number of issues with the bodies and specifically listed some of the fixes that have been asked for in this thread and not yet addressed. I am waiting for their reply with great interest.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 08:58 PM   #608
O1dSoldier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelJuan View Post
Hi O1dSoldier,

There is a detailed discussion on the CJ5 Mdjuan tub in this thread:

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showt...ghlight=rommel

it is almost as spirited as this thread

Hope this helps.

Rommel
The thread you sent me to seems to be largely a rehash of this one. I have a 78 CJ5 without a tailgate. all I'm seeing on both threads is diagrams of tubs with tailgates. Do you not make a tub without a tailgate for the 78?
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:14 AM   #609
RommelJuan
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yes we have that model
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Unread 11-12-2013, 11:37 AM   #610
O1dSoldier
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Thanks Rommel.

I'm glad to hear you have the tub w/o the tailgate. Do you have the same update diagram for this tub that you've shown for the model w/tailgate?

Also, I haven't seen anything addressing Keith's issue with the hood/cowl curve radius mismatch. Has that been fixed or are there plans to fix that? Is it localized to just the CJ7 Tub model Keith has?

I mentioned the radius issue in my note to Omix and they told me this issue basically doesn't exist or at least they've never heard of it (I've found it mentioned a couple times in forums) and the one time they've heard of it, it turned out to be the customer's hood was bent. It's troubling to me that the distributor appears to be unaware of all the issues that have been discussed in this thread.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:41 AM   #611
RommelJuan
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will make a diagram for you.

the hood cowl curve is fixed. I'll post a pic of this.

Rommel
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Unread 11-13-2013, 10:51 AM   #612
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelJuan View Post
will make a diagram for you.

the hood cowl curve is fixed. I'll post a pic of this.

Rommel
Sounds like everything, or almost everything is now fixed! Great Job Rommel!

Now.. Does anyone want to buy my new, unmodified, pre-improvement tub off me for a nice discount? It'd work nice for a mid-1979 or older CJ-7 quite nicely.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 11:53 AM   #613
O1dSoldier
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Hi Rommel,

Thanks for making the diagram, I look forward to seeing it. I know many other have thanked you for your hard work in improving your products and taking the time with us to listen to and address our concerns. That type of customer service and involvement is rare.

I've been chatting with Jay at Overland he has confirmed that he is now seeing the improved bodies coming in but says there are still some things his shop is doing to make them fully ready to install. I have asked him to detail what is still being done and will definitely pass on whatever it is he shares with me. I'm still a number of months away from being ready to acquire a body but my hope is that by then he will basically be out of the business of 'fixing' bodies because all the issues will be addressed at the factory.

Thanks again.

To others in the forum, my Jeep came without a tailgate and it's never been an issue. A CJ5 isn't big enough to carry much cargo. As I go through the process of deciding on fiberglass or steel (I prefer steel and am now leaning well in that direction thanks to this particular forum) but I find myself wondering if maybe having a tailgate versus not might be a good thing. I'm interested to know if any of you find it useful to have.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 09:48 AM   #614
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Rommel,

Can you tell me if the CJ7 tubs have been corrected and what distributors are selling them now?
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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:28 AM   #615
momo2
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Keith, did you need to enlarge or relocate the holes for the windshield hinges in the tub? On my repli-tub i can't get the top of the hinges flush with the cowl. They are about 1/4 too high which results in a gap between the seal and the cowl.
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