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Unread 02-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #31
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Looks like we all have the same list of complaints. And Keith is 100% right on the primer. My tub was built and shipped in December 2012 and is cheap primer. It is not a well adhered and tough smooth coating like an OEM e coat is

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Unread 02-20-2013, 11:38 PM   #32
Cutlass327
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Miami-boy, I am thinking they may have left out the rollbar holes to leave it adaptable to the different versions. I know my bar bolts to the top of the wheel house, whereas the newer CJ has the bar on the top and then also the floorboard in front of the wheelhouse. Plus then if you want to swap in a "family" bar, you don't have to fill in an holes...

Just my thoughts.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 02-20-2013, 11:53 PM   #33
miami-boy
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Oh ... yes I think you're right ... with the holes for the roll bar I forgot about it are indeed different ... but in the end I think we all have the same problems with the body .... with me the primer holds good, but has a slightly rough surface. My painter said, but that it is still in order. I have all the welding points rewelded again and the overlapping plates sealed with sealing. Now wait times what my painter ready brings

regards from germany
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:30 AM   #34
EBCJ7
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I applaud your initiative at trying to improve your product. I agree with CherryCj7 the best thing you could do is get a CJ7 and replace the tub. Because if your like me you can be told whats wrong and how to fix it but unless you do it yourself it doesn't sink in. Like being told bolt holes not lining up but not knowing how far they are off and in which direction.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 02:11 PM   #35
MoC
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If you want to pay shipping I will load you a CJ7 to practice changing the tub on. :-)

Nice to see interest in improving your product. Hat is tipped..
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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #36
77t18a
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Mr Juan....I also applaud your coming here to find ways to improve your product ! I just hope you have an idea of what size market your company COULD have if these tubs were made correctly. I am currently doing two frame off's on CJ5s. But because of the problems I have seen others have on this web site using your companys tubs,I have decided like many,many others to repair my tubs instead of buying two of yours. I suggest you learn all you can from this thread, make the improvements needed to have a first class product and keep in touch with all of us here on this site and you, my man, WILL reap the benefits of your hard work ! We will ALL be happy to keep you in business. These CJs will never die around my house. My twin boys can't wait till they get my pair of CJs. Now my daughter wants one! So you can see that the next generation is eager to keep them going on and on! So again, Thanks....and take PRIDE in what your doing and do it right. It will pay off for you and your company...77t18a
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Unread 02-22-2013, 03:13 AM   #37
dsfd722sts
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so the new tub doesn't have the "bracket" on the firewall, like shown in the picture with the red firewall, the bracket on the right side of the trans tunnel. I am doing a conversion and I want to cut mine off, what is it used for ? also any negative to media/sandblasting blasting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Firewall Section:

Firewall section could be improved with some additional holes and some of the factory locations for certain items for fitment like the heater/defrost assembly. It is hard to explain without your company actually having possession of the heating unit duct work and other various components that attach to the firewall from inside. One of the hardest things to do was to locate and drill the 3 mounting holes for the heating/defrost unit to the Repli-Tub firewall (Repli-Tub is what we refer to your units that come from the Philippines here on the Jeep Forum).

One of the first problems I had was fitting the heater fan motor through the hole that is already in place by your company. Because the top cowl section opening for the fresh air duct was not on centerline, off by a 1/4" from center, it forced me to convert to a popular upgrade of a larger fan motor. The hole is correct size and location but mounting the duct work on the upper plenum forced the assembly towards the passenger side by a 1/4". Therefore, a larger hole had to made slightly off center from existing hole.



There is also a bump or dimple in the OEM Jeep tub that allows a shaft from the duct work to clear the firewall after the heating/defrost unit is installed. I had to grind the end of the shaft in order for it to not make contact with the Repli-Tubs firewall once installed.

The throttle hole is missing and it is angled and a square hole. I drilled the hole in the factory location and then filed the corners to make square.
Once the square hole was made, I used a carriage bolt fitted with washers bolted in the hole and then carefully heated the sheet metal around to bend it to the proper angle.

It would be nice if the two strut brace brackets attached to the firewall upper section were in place. These are needed to provide additional support for the front grill.

A larger square hole opening is needed for the engine compartment electrical bulkhead connection to pass through on later model CJ's and YJ's.

There's no hole for the washer fluid hose or a hole for the nozzle on the top cowl section. Maybe not to important in states were it does not rain so much.

No battery tray mounting holes. 3ea. needed.



No bracket for the E brake assembly or Parking Brake.

No threaded backing plate for the Battery Tray.

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Unread 02-22-2013, 04:09 AM   #38
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsfd722sts View Post
so the new tub doesn't have the "bracket" on the firewall, like shown in the picture with the red firewall, the bracket on the right side of the trans tunnel. I am doing a conversion and I want to cut mine off, what is it used for ? also any negative to media/sandblasting blasting?
That bracket is a heat shield for the factory 4 and 6 cylinder engines. I don't think it's a big deal that it is not there from MD Juan Co. because if you want to add a V8 engine, it more than likely must be removed for clearance purposes.

There's also a smaller bracket to the right of that one that does not come with the Repli-Tubs, holds the two brake lines coming off of the frame mounted Proportioning Valve. Again, don't think that one is really necessary either but I did cut mine off the old tub and transferred both to the new tub. One of the problems having those two brackets in place, it was hard for the painter to apply paint behind the brackets. A few spots I had to use a brush to get paint in there.

Pictured below are the brackets that were transferred and or fabricated to the Repli-Tub firewall.

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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:21 AM   #39
RommelJuan
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sorry for the absence

Hi guys,

Wow. I just left the thread a couple of days and boom! So many inputs.

Very much appreciated guys. I will go back to our engineering team and address each of te issues and get back to you as soon as I can.

The Cj5 and Cj7 are much harder to make than the flat fenders. They require bigger dies with deeper draw.

We don't have much samples of original tubs here in the Philippines so we just worked with the samples that we had.

Thanks to this forum we have so much more information than ever before.

My promise is that we will try to incorporate all your comments into our current production as soon as possible. And have a better product for all the Jeepers who need it.

For the primer, I will give you a detailed report on what we use and even the composition of it.

We are currently using galvanized annealed sheet metal fro the flat fenders and we might eliminate the primers altogether for it. But right now the round fenders (cj5 and cj7) still uses our regular primer because when we use the galvanized material the metal breaks.

Kieth thanks for all the great photos and info. We really appreciate it.
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Unread 02-22-2013, 03:30 PM   #40
mirage100
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If you can make a drop on cj7 body that I don't have to do fab work on I will buy one today.
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Unread 02-22-2013, 05:33 PM   #41
RommelJuan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Definitely not true. All steel is the same gauge thickness as the factory steel.

Heavier at the support structures like OEM and body panels are also the same 18 gauge thickness.
yes we use all 18 gage steel:



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Unread 02-22-2013, 08:22 PM   #42
SKT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoC

Hat is tipped..
...it's a dry heat!

I would seriously like to see a quality venting windshield made for CJ-7's!

Something similar to some of the early CJ-5's:

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Unread 02-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #43
RamblingCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKT

I would seriously like to see a quality venting windshield made for CJ-7's!

Something similar to some of the early CJ-5's:
X2......or just quality windshields in general. I've heard nothing but tough reviews for the aftermarket ones.
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Unread 02-22-2013, 08:58 PM   #44
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelJuan View Post
Hi guys,

Wow. I just left the thread a couple of days and boom! So many inputs.

Very much appreciated guys. I will go back to our engineering team and address each of te issues and get back to you as soon as I can.

The Cj5 and Cj7 are much harder to make than the flat fenders. They require bigger dies with deeper draw.

We don't have much samples of original tubs here in the Philippines so we just worked with the samples that we had.

Thanks to this forum we have so much more information than ever before.

My promise is that we will try to incorporate all your comments into our current production as soon as possible. And have a better product for all the Jeepers who need it.

For the primer, I will give you a detailed report on what we use and even the composition of it.

We are currently using galvanized annealed sheet metal fro the flat fenders and we might eliminate the primers altogether for it. But right now the round fenders (cj5 and cj7) still uses our regular primer because when we use the galvanized material the metal breaks.

Kieth thanks for all the great photos and info. We really appreciate it.
Rommel,

I would suggest that you get together with one of your main distributors of the tubs in the US (Omix or Willys-Overland) and ask them to source you some straight (although maybe somewhat rusted) OEM tubs for various years, perhaps 1976-80, 1981-1986, and 1987-1995 and crate them up and send them to you the way you send new tubs to them. Then you'll have the real thing right there to get the smaller details discussed in this thread corrected. The biggies are the firewall, cowl and rear body mount section as Keith has described already.

Thanks for taking the time to find out what all of our concerns are!
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Unread 02-22-2013, 08:58 PM   #45
keith460
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I've been corresponding with RommelJuan via PM and we are discussing some of the issues with the Repli-Tubs and the Taiwanese paper thin aftermarket collision parts. The aftermarket pieces out of Taiwan and China may be E-coated but that does not make-up for their poor quality and fitment but their dimensions are pretty accurate.
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