Tubs from the Philippines - Page 20 - JeepForum.com

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post #286 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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We have created jigs for our CJ7 tubs to make sure the holes are aligned






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post #287 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 05:21 PM
Moparmandjh
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Very nice, I am already writing my essay to Santa Clause.........

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post #288 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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lol. that's early

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post #289 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 05:28 PM
roboto65
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I see a New CJ5 tub in my future very nice Juan

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post #290 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 10:11 PM
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Nice looking jig. I'm just thinking out loud here as I look at the pictures.

I know it's impossible to completely retool overnight and you have to keep the production line running I'll just point out a few things I see going on where improvements can be made.

I'll quote the first picture with a couple items circled:



The large oval is a weld that goes completely across the tub floor. Do you have machinery large enough to make the entire floor pan one stamping to eliminate this weld? Also the ribbing in the main floorboard area seems to be very weak/undefined to me compared to the factory tubs whereas the ribbing in the rear floor section and the wheelhouses is bold and crisp just like the originals were.

The smaller oval is of the transmisison tunnel hole, which should be enlarged to accomodate the newer transmissions in the 1980-86 CJ7 and 87-95 YJ Wrangler. This tunnel hole is the same from '80-95 so that's a lot of tubs covered.

Next picture:




Here we have different colors.

In yellow we can see there is no baffle in the rear wheelhouse. This is really needed on all tubs to mount the roll bar to and also the liquid check valve and rollover valve mounts here. It also protects the fuel filler hoses from debris from the tires. All CJ'7's had these baffles as do the YJ Wrangler tubs. One rib on the wheelhouse needs part of the rib "paused" to make way for the roll bar mounting. I believe one of the other tubs pictured earlier in the thread was set up this way. Was that one a YJ tub?

In green it would be quite handy to get all the nut plates welded on and proper holes for battery tray mounting.

In Blue the bulkhead connector hole isn't the correct size and two holes missing to mount the fuse panel bulkhead connector

In Red there should be an oval hole for clutch linkage rod to pass thru firewall.

In Purple/Violet is where the angled throttle cable square hole and reinforcing rib goes.

If you keep at it Rommel you may eventually be able to produce pieces better than AMC/Jeep was rolling out in the 1980's

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.

My Rebuild/Restoration Thread, In Progress
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post #291 of 792 Old 03-18-2013, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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thanks for the comments. Will get right on it.

Guys please help us source the right tubs that we can use as samples. We will gladly make a deal if you need to replace your old tub

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post #292 of 792 Old 03-19-2013, 10:49 AM
Renegade82
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blackcj7laredo - The yellow circle. I'm seeing the baffle there. Are you not? I don't see the dimple hole in the center but the rest seems to be there.

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post #293 of 792 Old 03-19-2013, 02:52 PM
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
blackcj7laredo - The yellow circle. I'm seeing the baffle there. Are you not? I don't see the dimple hole in the center but the rest seems to be there.
No the baffle is not there. The baffle is ahead of the crossmember and you can clearly see in the photo that it is not there.

'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.

My Rebuild/Restoration Thread, In Progress
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post #294 of 792 Old 03-19-2013, 06:21 PM
contdevelop
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Juan- I am down in Texas where the Jeeps dont rust "as bad" as the rest of the country. If you are serious about it, i can really look here for one thats straight and somewhat rust free. But I am not in a position to buy one.
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post #295 of 792 Old 03-20-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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I will email you straight

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post #296 of 792 Old 03-20-2013, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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Hi Guys,

We are looking for samples of the following seats. Hope you can help:



Best,
Rommel

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post #297 of 792 Old 03-22-2013, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
RommelJuan
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Hi Guys,

A lot of people have asked for information about our primer paint.

Here it is:











Cheers,
Rommel

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post #298 of 792 Old 03-22-2013, 07:20 AM
keith460
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Hmmm, my primer paint came off with an air nozzle and was the reason why I had it removed with soda and plastic media blast.






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post #299 of 792 Old 03-22-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelJuan View Post
We are now implementing the correct rear splash pan/tailgate support or as we call it the rear crossmember.

Our old one was straight and did not have a depression to make way for the gas tank and check out our new implemented change side by side with the original.:



Guys, Again I thank you for all your help. And as promised I will implement all the changes and corrections that you will share with me and the rest of the Jeep community in this forum!!
I was wondering why and would like to make a suggestion. Why not buy some of those cheap Taiwanese/China made Wheelhouses, Fenders, Hoods, Rear Corner Panels and use them as templates for implementing design updates?

As I said in an e-mail, they are cheap and flimsy 1mm sheet metal so they are not the same thickness as OEM or what is produced by MD Juan. But, one of the benefits of these cheap type of crash panels is the fact that they are duplicates in dimensions and hole placement as the original Jeep versions. I have had the fenders in my hand and even though they are full of missed and weak spot welds, wrinkles from the thin metal, they have "correct" hole size/placement for side markers, fender flares, mounting and accessories like the OEM versions.

I even bought a pair of rear Wheelhouses for $49.00 each just to get the support Baffle Plates out of them to use on your Repli-Tub that did not have them and one of the things I noticed with them was all the holes for mounting the factory Roll Bar and Spare Tire Carrier were of correct size and location. A tape measure and a pair of veneer calipers don't lie!



There is even a place in the USA that makes the rear crossmember in correct OEM configuration as you are now doing and only wish I knew about it before I made my own.

Classic Enterprises: http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php




As you can see, their Baffle Plate lacks the holes in the center and the mounting holes for the fuel system check valves.

Classic Enterprises Rear Crossmember




Sort of a catch 22 situation here, MD Juan makes OEM thickness sheet metal parts but lacks the correct holes and some features of the originals and then we have cheap Taiwanese crash panels that are E-coated primer with correct features and holes but are paper thin that nobody wants.

Somebody needs to take advantage of this and come out on top.... it would be well received and noted in the never ending Jeep CJ body repair panel business IMHO.

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post #300 of 792 Old 03-22-2013, 10:53 AM
jayzcj5
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Hey Rommel,

I have following this thread. Nice work by both you and Keith. I guess you now know how serious the jeep community is. I have a 1980 CJ5 tub that I was about to start fixing. Not all that bad, just the usual spots. I live 30 minutes from QUADRATECH and would be willing to bring it to you for a deal on a new one. My question would be what kind of turn around time do you think until I could get a new corrected version. I see you are working fast on this matter so good job on that front! If you have enough donations already then please disregard...thanks!
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