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Unread 02-19-2013, 07:04 PM   #16
teh603
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So here's a question. Why are the CJ-5 and 6 tubs so much more expensive than those for the 2A and 3? I'm seeing almost a thousand dollars' price difference on my end.

Edit: Ok, here's a second. Are you likely to ever start making grilles?

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Unread 02-19-2013, 07:31 PM   #17
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh603 View Post
So here's a question. Why are the CJ-5 and 6 tubs so much more expensive than those for the 2A and 3? I'm seeing almost a thousand dollars' price difference on my end.

Edit: Ok, here's a second. Are you likely to ever start making grilles?
One thing to keep in mind: Anything that is stamped "Willys" or "Jeep" and the grille design are trademarks and must be licensed by Chrysler. That's why you see the $500-$1000 premium price increase on the stamped tubs. At the manufacturing level it probably only costs them about $5 to stamp them.

On the stamping note.. To be entirely correct, all YJ tubs and CJ tubs used 1984-86 were stamped "Joop" and not "Jeep"
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Unread 02-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #18
teh603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post
One thing to keep in mind: Anything that is stamped "Willys" or "Jeep" and the grille design are trademarks and must be licensed by Chrysler. That's why you see the $500-$1000 premium price increase on the stamped tubs. At the manufacturing level it probably only costs them about $5 to stamp them.
I'm aware of that. The difference seems to be about $500 or so, and I'm not all that concerned about having "JEEP" on the tux-in-a-barn. What I don't understand is the extra $1000 for just being a CJ-5. The CJ-3B tub still costs about the same as a low-hood.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 08:28 PM   #19
keith460
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Originally Posted by teh603 View Post
I'm aware of that. The difference seems to be about $500 or so, and I'm not all that concerned about having "JEEP" on the tux-in-a-barn. What I don't understand is the extra $1000 for just being a CJ-5. The CJ-3B tub still costs about the same as a low-hood.
The CJ-5 tub is much more complex than a CJ-3B tub and that means more cost to manufacture.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 08:31 PM   #20
BlkCJ7Laredo
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I'm going to be really upset if MD Juan actually takes everything we're telling them into account and starts making a top notch tub after all the work this one that I have is going to take to get ready. It's still worth it more to me than the even higher amount of work the YJ tub would have taken to be ready and still turn around and rust on me in a year or two.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 08:37 PM   #21
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That was always in the back of my mind when doing all the modifications.... NO RUST ANYWHERE!
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Unread 02-20-2013, 04:44 AM   #22
momo2
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I just got all the neceassary modifactions done on my repli-tub, all in all it took about 40 hours to get everything right. Most of the issues have already been documented by Keith, especially the fabriaction of a new tail end splash guard consumes a lot of time and work. But one of the most annoying things when it comes to fitment ist that the shape of the cowl section doesn't match the shape of oem hood. There is a difference of about 0,5 Centimeters (sorry, i'm from Europe). It looks quite ugly and cannot really be corrected in an easy way, apart maybe form putting on loads of bondo. I think Keith has a picture of that in his restoration thread.

I also have a question about the black primer on your tub. My paint shop says it could be some form of e-coating already. The Morris 4x4 website (that's a big US-Dealer) states that you have a new primer formula and use a five stage process of rinse and dip baths, so maybe it's really e-coating. Also i tried to rub off the primer with laquer thinner and i didn't went off which is also an indiaction for e-coating, so maybe you can clarify on that. Have to say that i got my tub only four months ago, so maybe this was not true for older tubs from MD Juan

Last edited by momo2; 02-20-2013 at 05:12 AM..
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Unread 02-20-2013, 04:52 AM   #23
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Cowl section of the Repli-Tub where the front edge is suppose to match the contours of the OEM Jeep hood is without a doubt one of the worst features that is an eyesore to look at.



The wavy line of the Repli-Tub, which I think is hand formed on a block of wood or something, compared to the straight crisp line of the OEM hood.



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Unread 02-20-2013, 06:16 AM   #24
contdevelop
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Keith- I heard the after-market tub is much thinner than the stock tub. Is this true?
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Unread 02-20-2013, 06:24 AM   #25
momo2
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Not true, sheet metal has the same thickness
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Unread 02-20-2013, 06:31 AM   #26
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quick thanks to every contributing positive feedback that was asked for and especially to Keith for his detailed work on this and MDJuan for looking for a way to improve their product.

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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 02-20-2013, 10:03 AM   #27
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by momo2 View Post
I just got all the necessary modifications done on my repli-tub, all in all it took about 40 hours to get everything right. Most of the issues have already been documented by Keith, especially the fabrication of a new tail end splash guard consumes a lot of time and work. But one of the most annoying things when it comes to fitment is that the shape of the cowl section doesn't match the shape of oem hood. There is a difference of about 0,5 Centimeters (sorry, i'm from Europe). It looks quite ugly and cannot really be corrected in an easy way, apart maybe form putting on loads of bondo. I think Keith has a picture of that in his restoration thread.

I also have a question about the black primer on your tub. My paint shop says it could be some form of e-coating already. The Morris 4x4 website (that's a big US-Dealer) states that you have a new primer formula and use a five stage process of rinse and dip baths, so maybe it's really e-coating. Also i tried to rub off the primer with lacquer thinner and i didn't went off which is also an indication for e-coating, so maybe you can clarify on that. Have to say that i got my tub only four months ago, so maybe this was not true for older tubs from MD Juan
Pictures posted of the mismatch of the OEM Hood-to-Cowl section.

I would not trust that so called E-coating because it is NOT. It is merely a cheap primer that is used to protect the body from salt water contamination from shipment across the great Pacific Ocean to here. It easily came off with a blow gun and plastic media blasting. E-coating is an expensive process and one must have special equipment and chemicals to apply. E-coating does not come off so easily even with sandblasting. I would compare it to good powder coating which is also difficult to remove.







Took the media blaster about 15min to remove every trace of the black primer applied by MD Juan Company. Came off very easy and if you failed to remove it, you are going to have your finish coat coming of in big chunks of paint peelings.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 10:07 AM   #28
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Keith- I heard the after-market tub is much thinner than the stock tub. Is this true?
Definitely not true. All steel is the same gauge thickness as the factory steel.

Heavier at the support structures like OEM and body panels are also the same 18 gauge thickness.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 10:15 AM   #29
momo2
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Maybe MD Juan could clarify on the e-coating/primer. I think Keith had one of the earliest tubs and mine was build not long ago. Also mine looked quite tough when it came to paint, so maybe something has changed
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Unread 02-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #30
miami-boy
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Hi people,
I also have a new body and can join with Keith only concerning the missing holes for the heater housing. Even the holes in the windshield frame are not a perfect fit. The cutout for the gearbox is for the "old" gearbox versions, so cut too small. it lacks the angle for the tailgate ropes (I do not at the moment as they call themselves)
It lacks the "guards" in the wheel arch, rear left and right. The cutout for the rear lights cable ebendso missing the cut for the tank neck.
Then I have the feeling the body is not right, "square" I hope you understand what I mean. I had problems at least in the body properly to fit the body mounts / to set the framework and then to put the screws.
It lacks the plates for the electrical wiring on the driver side.
The holes for the roll bar also missing .... Now everything is not so bad but it obviously attracts still lots of rework to the new body .... we have here in Germany some people it deters so to buy the body!
I keep you posted too!
Greetings from cold Germany
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