Tub Removal Instruction - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
specwarCJ
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Thompsonville
Posts: 107
Tub Removal Instruction

Does anybody know where there is a step-by-step on how to and what to remove during tub removal? It would be nice if there was a play by play with pictures so that I knew what to plan for when it comes to disassembly. As well as what is required and what is optional.

I know there are a lot of you that have done this. And alot more of us that will or would do it if we had an idea as to how much you have to do and what pre-planning prep work could or should be done to make the job easier.

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post #2 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 02:44 PM
AbsolutXJ
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1953 M-38 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Farmville, Virginia
Posts: 237
Tub removal is fairly straight-forward for all these jeeps. Obviously my M38A1 is probably a touch simpler but I think they are all about the same.

Remove all the seats, rollbars, carpet, pedals, steering wheel (not the column), and anything else bolted to the actual tub. Make sure you bag and tag all of your bolts (trust me!)

Remove the hood, fenders, and windshield

Unbolt the dash and disconnect gauges and wires (label each wire with a piece of tape if you are re-using the original harness)

Disconnect the fuel filler tube and linkage for the parking brake

Crawl under the jeep and locate the body bolts (8 on my Jeep). Remove and save these bolts

After the tub is free from the frame, lift it up high enough to get a 2x4 under the front and rear. This will help with removal. Ratchet strap the frame to the boards and have three friends grab the corners. Lift and remove over the steering column and you're free.

I'm sure I've forgotten a couple things that the others will chime in on. Good luck!

Try this book if you're doing a rebuild. I borrowed it from and friend and its 10x the Haynes manual:
http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Rebuilder...0369125&sr=8-3

1979 CJ-7
1978 CJ-5 (Wrecked Awaiting Rebuild)
Willys M38A1 - project vehicle
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 04:05 PM
CJ51973
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Versailles
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I took about 30-40 pictures. Taking it apart is easier than putting it back together a few months later. Labeled every wire I disconnected. Ziplocs are important too. Everything I took off I duct taped a ziploc bag of bolts to it. Even if they are broke it will help get the right size replacement. Don't throw away old stuff until the new stuff you buy goes back in. Might need it to measure holes or something to confirm you have the right replacement. My tub was so wasted I only had to remove (cut) one bolt. When you pushed in the clutch the body picked up instead. Good Luck.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 04:10 PM
84MSRB
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: OH-IO
Posts: 750
Start removing bolts.
After a while try to lift the tub.
If it comes off, youre done.
If not- un bolt some more crap.
Try again.
Or go for precision and the ability to re-attach the new tub by following the above instructions.

1984 CJ7 Mud Slingin Rust Bucket
90 YJ tub
Ford Mutt 5.0( 69 block, 89 EFI)
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 09:01 PM
djui5
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2004 KJ Liberty 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbsolutXJ View Post
I'm sure I've forgotten a couple things that the others will chime in on. Good luck!
Just removed mine today. There might be some rubber belt attachments for the exhaust to the tub. Remove these. I took out the steering column. It attaches in a u-joint type of set up on the engine side of the firewall. Easy to remove and reinstall. You'll need to remove the plate and rubber boots for the tranny/transfer case shifters. The rear bumper should be attached to the tub just under the tail gate. Also wanna remove the rear tail/reverse lights, or at least their wires. There is a brake line attachment near the rear axles that splits the single e-brake line into a dual line. Need to unbolt this also. On the passenger side of the Jeep should be the lines for the heater. You'll need to remove these and keep a jug under them as they will drain radiator fluid. I think my CJ-6 had 10 or more actual body bolts holding it on. They're easy to find. Just look for the really fat washer/bushings. I think that is everything.

Randy Wright,
Apache Junction, Arizona

2004 KJ lifted/etc
1974 CJ-6 being restored
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
specwarCJ
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Thompsonville
Posts: 107
Thanks for all of the comments. Do they sell a body bolt kit for a 82 CJ. That way I don't have to worry about breaking them? Or do I just go to the hardware store and buy something close?
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-15-2009, 09:22 PM
djui5
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http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...umber=5462446K

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...p?number=64270

Randy Wright,
Apache Junction, Arizona

2004 KJ lifted/etc
1974 CJ-6 being restored
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