tub mount bushings - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
somdfisher
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tub mount bushings

I bought new bushings for my 7 and I was wondering how people installed them.


O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #2 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 02:19 PM
keith460
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Are the bushings rubber with steel tubes or poly type?

If you have OEM type rubber ones then you will need to cut down the steel tubes except for two. The two that don't get cut down go to the front Toe Board mount just under the firewall and use the largest rubber isolator out of the kit to bolt up at the bottom. All other bushing tubes get cut down to within a 1/4" recessed when the bottom rubber isolators are in place so that they can compress down to the 2" washers when tightening them down.




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post #3 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
somdfisher
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I have the rubber ones. They have to be cut down a 1/4"? Are the bushings supposed to compress when tighted?

Thanks for the help, the PO used plastic pucks for most of it so I have nothing to compare to.

O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #4 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
somdfisher
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I have the rubber ones. They have to be cut down a 1/4"? Are the bushings supposed to compress when tighted?

Thanks for the help, the PO used plastic pucks for most of it so I have nothing to compare to.

O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #5 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 04:17 PM
keith460
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Cut down what ever it takes to get 2ea. of length "A" and 8ea. of length "B". Using a pipe cutter is best and yes the rubber bushing should compress some until the proper torque of 24 ft/lbs is obtained. 36 ft/lbs for Support Bracket-to-Rear Floor Pan which has no bushing.

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post #6 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 05:48 PM
Lordwrench
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Great info,Keith
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post #7 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 06:00 PM
yellow85cj
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Here's what it looked like when I used Keiths' measurement of 1 1/4" for the eight (As close as I could get it. Should be flush with the bottom of the bushing) . And what it looked like when I mounted it on my replacement frame mount (before I welded it to the frame). The frame mount I have is 1/4", the OEM is not quite that thick.






Currently in pieces - all of them
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post #8 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 06:53 PM
keith460
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Just like yellow85cj has his shown on the first two pictures is how they should end up. Once the large 2" flat washer is mounted to the bottom of the bushings, it will start to compress the rubber some until 24 ft/lbs of torque is obtained. That is enough torque to compress the rubber bushings and make a solid foundation for your tub to frame mounting.

I know a lot of guys make this mistake by not cutting down the steel tubes to proper length and then they wonder why the tub is still lose on the frame and makes a bunch of noises when hitting bumps and what not.

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post #9 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 07:07 PM
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Great info x 2

What would change when applying this info to a CJ5??
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post #10 of 22 Old 07-30-2010, 07:12 PM
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Good stuff!! I linked this to the FAQ Sticky for future reference!!

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #11 of 22 Old 08-08-2010, 01:47 PM
Splinter
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On my CJ5 the large rubber bushing shown in position 2 was on position 7. (rear mount) It appears to me that the large bushing has to go here because of the large hole in the frame bracket. The smaller bushing, sleeve and bolt go in from the bottom.




This picture from another build also shows the large size of the frame bracket. Can someone clarify this for me?
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-08-2010, 04:27 PM
yellow85cj
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All of the holes for the bushings should be the same size. All go in from the top.

In pics 1 & 2 the holes appear to have just rusted out. Time for some repair or a new rear cross member.

Currently in pieces - all of them
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-08-2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
somdfisher
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The holes just be a touch bigger than 1-1/4" to fit right. I had to fix a few rusted out mounts.

My last questions besides my closing comment, the bigger part goes in the top and the sleeve goes in the top as well right? Then use a washer on the bottom with the larger inner diameter part correct?

And cutting the sleeves with a pipe cutter is no walk in the park.

O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-08-2010, 06:14 PM
Splinter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somdfisher View Post
The holes just be a touch bigger than 1-1/4" to fit right. I had to fix a few rusted out mounts.


And cutting the sleeves with a pipe cutter is no walk in the park.
Heh, heh, bin there, I just scored it with a tubing cutter that opens to one inch and then used a hacksaw.
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post #15 of 22 Old 08-31-2010, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Are the bushings rubber with steel tubes or poly type?

If you have OEM type rubber ones then you will need to cut down the steel tubes except for two. The two that don't get cut down go to the front Toe Board mount just under the firewall and use the largest rubber isolator out of the kit to bolt up at the bottom. All other bushing tubes get cut down to within a 1/4" recessed when the bottom rubber isolators are in place so that they can compress down to the 2" washers when tightening them down.




There isn't by any chance one of these diagrams for the pre-'76 CJ's?
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