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Unread 01-22-2008, 11:33 AM   #1
gwalls
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tub mount bolts

When I removed my tub I had to cut 3 of the bolts to get it off. One is in the rear tailgate area and the other 2 are on the side. I bought a stud remover and the nuts inside the braces broke loose. What have you done to replace these.

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Unread 01-22-2008, 12:10 PM   #2
Stan99
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I had the same problem. I have fixed a couple of them, but I have two left and would also like to here how other people have done it. Below is how I have done it and some ideas of what to do for those last two.


I had to do a tub swap and the new tub I got had 4 bolts that are done! 1 in the front, both of the ones under the seats and one by the back bumper. The one in the front is easy because you can access that one, so I plan on just using a washer and a nut. For the one by the rear bumper I cut it open and put a new nut and welded a new cage over it. For the two under each of the front seats (one on each side). I can only come up with two ways, one is to do the same as what I did in the rear by the bumper or cut an access hole behind the bolt and just use a new washer and bolt. If I go this route I would have to make a face plate that is removable so I could access these if I ever need to take them out. Now I have been doing all of this with the tub off and sitting on its side, so I have had allot of access to all of the bolts. To back track a little to get the old bolts out, what I did was take a 1/4" chisel and a nail punch and beat the old nuts and the little cage until the spot welds broke. Be careful when you do this to make sure that you donít destroy the tub. What I did was just give each side a couple taps until it broke free. Not to hard!
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Unread 01-22-2008, 12:17 PM   #3
gwalls
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Thanks. I was going to just weld in some flange nuts but the hole is bigger that the nut. Any other ideas?
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Unread 01-22-2008, 01:07 PM   #4
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The Last 8 pics or so show cutting out the driver side rear mount.
http://www.certifiablejeep.com/freejeep/freejeep38.php
I had to do both sides along with one other.

First 8 pics or so show cutting out the passenger rear mount.
http://www.certifiablejeep.com/freejeep/freejeep39.php

The one in the center of the body took some heat and a bolt extractor. Worked pretty good. Heat up everything but the bolt if you can and that way it will all expand except for hte bolt. A good dose of PB Blaster doesn't hurt either.

cb
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Unread 01-22-2008, 01:51 PM   #5
gwalls
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When you cut that access window to get the nut out, removed bolt and then retapped did you weld it back in from the access window or from the outside surface? Mine have busted loose like that.
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Unread 01-22-2008, 02:04 PM   #6
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There are actually two "fingers" that hold the square threaded plate in place. These "fingers"allow it to move around. If you weld it in place, you will not have the flexibility to move the plate around and get the bolt in from the bottom.

So, I just bent the fingers back over and secured it that way. As long as you put it all back together with anti-seize, you won't have an issue taking them back out again.

I pushed through the "fingers" when I was trying to drill and tap the bolt. I had the tub out and on its side, so I was really pushing on it.

If the "fingers" are rusted clean through, you might want to fab a little piece of sheetmetal that will fit over the threaded plate and then tack weld that in place over it. Again, you want a little movement of the plate to help it line up when you put it back together.

cb
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Unread 01-22-2008, 03:04 PM   #7
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heres what i did, I had my tub off the frame and flipped over so it was pretty easy to do. I cut a flap in the channel and removed the old square nut and welded in a new one and bent the flap back down and re-welded it closed.





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Unread 01-22-2008, 11:02 PM   #8
Stan99
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Im glad to see that I am not the only one that did the repair this way. Any problems torking the bolts back in, did the nut spin at all??? Thats what I am worried about.
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Unread 01-23-2008, 03:35 AM   #9
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I had no spinning issues to speak of.
When you are putting them in, you aren't putting a whole lot of stress on them (I would think) as you are pulling them towards you and the bottom surface of that plate is somewhat rough, so it connects against the bottom of the tub and you sandwich everything.

Removing them is when you really start to torque on them, especially the rusted ones.

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Unread 01-23-2008, 08:00 AM   #10
gwalls
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Thanks. Mine is upside down on some saw horses doing some patch repairs in floors and rockers. I've got to do something with these bolts before having bottom of tub sprayed.
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Unread 01-23-2008, 01:22 PM   #11
Fjguercio
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RUSTED BOLTS, Ugggg!

Good ideas but the post about heating up should be tried first. My neighbor has accetaline tanks and came over and showed me how to use them. Got the NUT CHERRY RED and the bolt turns nicely. This a post with more detail talking about Lubricant, Cracking Rust, Days Working, and the removal of threaded stud. THIS IS THE TREAD I POSTED ABOUT A MONTH AGO.

I had the same problem getting the bolts out of the skid plate and needed to replace the transmission mounts, clean paint skid & frame & shims, trans seals. The PO already snaped off 2 bolts, and I snaped off 1 then started asking around. THIS WORKED REALY WELL AND WANTED TO POST IN CASE YOU WERE NOT DONE YET AND IT MIGHT HELP OTHERS IN THE FUTURE.

You can try penetrating lubricant for a few days but hard to get to threaded area. HARD TO REACH THREADS since covered with the skid plate and the shim and the threads you need to reach are inside the frame.

Since I knew the bolts were stuck, I ground off the three remaining bolt heads, TO remove the skidplate. You will also need a jack stand or jack under the trans or bellhousing. Then use your penetraint lubricant and hit the studs/bolts with a hammer in different directions trying to crack the rust crust that has formed. The next day add penetraint and hit again, and maybe another day. First try Vise Grip twisting back and forth and may come out. I got one out with vise grip. Then I heated the NUT area with acetalene tanks till red, put a vise grip on the stud and twisted back and forth till it came out and it went well. Heating you get a much cleaner threads on the nuts also.

If the bolts broke off FLUSH at the nut it is a bit harder, there is nothing to grip to. I Drilled a hole large enough for a stainless steel screw, 12size or so. Heated up the nut till glowing again and use the SS screw, I used a philips screw, to thread into the hole. USE STAINLESS STEEL because it is stronger than pot steel in cheaper fasteners and will allow more torque to be applied. Once it bites in the hole it threads the broken off stud INTO the frame. Since there are no rusted threads on the exterior of the frame/nut once you get it to move, it goes in easy. Fish the stud out with a magnet on the end telescopic stick, very common now and cheap. There are 3-4 holes in the frame in that area for fishing the nut out.

If you try an EASYOUT, even if you get it to move. I do not think you will keep the bolt turning the length of rusted threads. I remember there being an inch of threads or so in the frame. EASYOUTS work well if you can wire brush the external threads that will need to go thru the bolt. I have limited success with easy outs and the boltouts.

Take a bolt to hardware store or fastenal and buy SS bolts. Lube the Nut again, something good PB Blast, or anti sease, before assembly and should be ok till the next removal time or owner.

Accetaline Heat Works, propane tank was not hot enough.

Last edited by Fjguercio; 01-23-2008 at 01:37 PM..
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