[John Strenk]

But I need a switch like this:


anyone have something like this?
Or an old junk piece of equipment that would have one inside?

[JeepHammer]

John, let me look, I have some rotary switches around here someplace,
but for the life of me I don't know where they are just this minute...

Do you need that long stem?
And how many positions/circuits are you looking for?

[86cj74.2L]

I have a rotary drum switch I removed the mechanical stop on when I made a manual positioner for the stepper on the BBD. Not using it any more. Ill see how close it looks to your request.

[John Strenk]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

John, let me look, I have some rotary switches around here someplace,
but for the life of me I don't know where they are just this minute...

Do you need that long stem?
And how many positions/circuits are you looking for?

The shaft just needs to be long enough to hold a knob. It needs 4 poles with at least 4 positions.

Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L

I have a rotary drum switch I removed the mechanical stop on when I made a manual positioner for the stepper on the BBD. Not using it any more. Ill see how close it looks to your request.

What a great idea! I can throw that into the test box also.

What my idea is to make one and send it around like the tie rod flipper thingie that is going around so others can test and calibrate their gauges.

[JeepHammer]

That's a REALLY good idea for that stepper motor!

I will have a look today.

I used two of those rotary switches on my old truck when I lived in Whittier CA. for thief prevents
With about 8 positions each, you had to have BOTH in the correct position before the truck would run.
I had two vehicles stolen out there, and the third one wasn't going ANYWHERE.

JOHN, Since this is a user thing, send me some details via PM.
I'll help with the hardware.
These guys did me a big solid with that winch deal, so the least I can do is return some of that good will.

How does this look?



Looks like two poles, five throws, so you might have an 'Off' position, or you have expansion room if something else comes up...

Say the word and it's yours along with a 'Spare' or two.

[John Strenk]

That would be perfect!!

[86cj74.2L]

The idea on the manual stepper was to try and find the optimum position for them after bypassing the 'Puter.

It did work but needs refined some. Want it? It's yours. Send me an address. If it stays in my desk drawer any longer I may rob more hookup wire off it for other projects. It could be duplicated with 4 buttons labeled 1 to 4. But the drum switch was around so I used it. Just keep spinning it and if all is good the stepper follows.

[86cj74.2L]

I was much happier paralleling the dizzy wires and having it still control mixture. I control timing.

There was always a rich spot somewhere I didn't like..plug color and A/F ratio wise. Hooked up to computer and put needles back to factory and back to white plugs with a brown shadow on one side.

[John Strenk]

I found that the computer will turn the motor 23 times to make sure the needle is seated and then back it off 13 turns for a default position.

I'll send you a PM

[John Strenk]

How did you parallel the dizzy?

[86cj74.2L]

Sorry if this is winded

Originally with the junkyard HEI failure to get rid of pinging.(2006) and the gear mesh not being centered on the cam I did the nutter thing. Spent too much time trying to get the needles in the perfect spot so I was as close as possible to stoch if I made it stoch at 55mph it was lean at 25 to 35. Of coarse if I made it stoch at the lower speeds it was higher then I wanted at highway speeds. Granted I was in the middle of discovering how crappy the single metal gasket for the intake and exhaust was at sealing and not having the intake bolt holes level with the exhaust and the manifold always comming loose and causing vacuum leaks.....

I had this idea that I could mount the rotary switch in the dash and just dial in the stepper to get what I was shooting for.

Anyway I had the MSD up and running so grabbed some shielded Belden cable from the scrap bin at work and ran the wires back up to where I cut them out of the harness.

Later I got some correct color wire and redone everything between the dizzy, MSD and MCU. I used weather packs and ran wires from dizzy to onside of weather pack as well as soldering wires from that same connector up to the harness that goes to MCU. Then put the other half of the connector on the MSD.

Now if there is a problem i can unplug the weather pack connector from the MSD and plug the stealth HEI into the original connectors, reset timing and hook coil back up to factory harness and I'm done.

With the computer in control if BBD and my fluke meter on average the O2 sensor voltage averages .6v driving down the road in most all conditions.

Funny I thought the stepper was a 100 count. That may equal to the turns you noticed. I knew it ran the stepper in and out then set in middle untill it was told to take over at 135 degrees.

[John Strenk]

4 poles, 100 counts about 25 revolutions.

[86cj74.2L]

I set up the switch to ground the poles in their proper sequence.

Sometimes it was glitchy like contact issues.

Like I said it can probably be improved upon. If I would have kept using it I would have grabbed a connector from JY.

Here is a picture. The white wires towards battery are the weather pack connectors. May be able to see the twisted pair going up to the firewall for the computer

[John Strenk]

You probably needed a make before break switch so you can activate two motor poles at the same time.
Some thing like this:

1,1&2,2,2&3,3,3&4,4,4&1,1,...

That would make it much smoother to turn the motor.

[86cj74.2L]

Here is a picture of it.