Transmission and Transfer case swap - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-29-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
SDF
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Transmission and Transfer case swap

Hey I have a 1978 cj7 and I was wondering if it would be compatible with a t176 four speed and a Dana 300, with stock 304 V8?
Any input would be appreciated.


Last edited by SDF; 04-29-2013 at 09:41 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-30-2013, 12:54 AM
jp360cj
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Yes it will bolt up. What Trans do you have now? And what are you looking to accomplish with the swap?

off the top of my head you'll need new driveshafts, t176 skid plate, and I believe a new Trans tunnel cover. I would also replace the TO bearing and clutch while its out

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-07-2013, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
SDF
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Thanks for the info, I have a t150 and I thought, correct me if im wrong but it would be cheaper to swap then to redo the syncros and all the seals and such
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-07-2013, 04:18 PM
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That depends on how good a deal you get on parts and who is doing the work for each situation.
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-07-2013, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
SDF
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That is very true, how hard, it is a transmission but, how hard would it for a pretty mechanically inclined person to rebuild?
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-07-2013, 05:09 PM
roboto65
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The 150 is an easy rebuild just got done with mine and as long as you take your time and lay everything out you won't have an problems, heck other than a press you can rebuild the 150 for less than 150.00 thats a Master rebuild kit and snap ring pliers.

They say money can't buy happiness but it can buy Jeep parts...and Jeep parts make me really Happy.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-07-2013, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
SDF
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Thanks man.
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-12-2013, 12:14 PM
notlost
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I'm putting a 1978 258 into my 1982 cj5 with the original t177. This was a factory 4 cylinder vehicle so I'm using the bellhousing that came with the 258\t150 combo.
The problem I have run into is the flywheel holds the clutch plate so far back that it contacts the front bearing retainer on the t177.
Are you having the same issue?
I see that the 1978 258 and the 1982 258 have different part numbers for the flywhee. Are the newer flywheels thinner? If it is then the newer flywheel would be the easiest fix, but this raises another question. Does the clutch arm pivot point sit further aft on the t150 bellhousing to accommodate the deeper flywheel and clutch set? If it does, will my slave cylinder work? I'm considering useing a pipe cutter to shorten the bearing retainer to keep the heavier flywheel and t150 bellhousing. Thanks for any info you can provide.
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-12-2013, 12:19 PM
notlost
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I said clutch plate. I meant clutch disc. Sorry for any confusion.
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-12-2013, 01:56 PM
jp360cj
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The flywheel balances the rotating assembly, so if you change it you'll need to have it balanced. Do you know the newer flywheel is thinner, or are you assuming/guessing?

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-12-2013, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj View Post
The flywheel balances the rotating assembly, so if you change it you'll need to have it balanced. Do you know the newer flywheel is thinner, or are you assuming/guessing?
The balancing only applies to the AMC V8. This case is a 258 and the flywheel is neutral balanced. They can be changed with any other AMC based six cylinder, including the 4.0 with no issues related to balancing.

My first thought is the clutch disc oriented correctly? There's an engine side and a transmission side and it is marked usually.
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-13-2013, 08:50 PM
notlost
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj View Post
The flywheel balances the rotating assembly, so if you change it you'll need to have it balanced. Do you know the newer flywheel is thinner, or are you assuming/guessing?
I'm assuming. There is about $90 of price difference with the older flywheel being more expensive. I assume it has more material in it, but there could be several resons for the price differance. Just thought someone might have experience with the swap.

The cluch splines up to the shaft, goes in about an inch, then stops before the engine reaches the bellhousing. About 3/8" short. I pulled it out, put white grease on the end of the bearing retainer and put it back in. When it made contact I turned the engine by hand and then pulled it back out. I found white grease on the cluthc disc and scrape marks on the front bearing retainer. The side of the clutch disc that says "This side toward flywheel" is toward the flywhee.
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