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Unread 11-21-2011, 06:13 PM   #1
shull360CJ7
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Bloomfield, PA
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Transmission Cooler line replacement

My TH400 cooler lines are in rough shape. They have been repaired (brazed or soldered, whatever the term is) and have been sleeved in a few places. They've leaked at different places and it's time I replaced them.

Does anyone have any experience with Classic Tube's products? Found them for sale through Summit.

I'm using my phone to post and unfortunately cannot post a link. Thanks for any suggestions.

Brian

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Unread 11-21-2011, 07:43 PM   #2
shull360CJ7
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Anyone?.....please, Haha.
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

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Unread 11-21-2011, 07:57 PM   #3
motiv8ya
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No experience with those, but when I did a 401/th400 swap on my 79' CJ7 I just got a pair of four foot long steel lines from the local parts store and used a hand held tubing bender to route them how I wanted. Saved a bunch of money. They had the proper fittings for the transmission. On the other end I just cut, flared and finished off with a short piece of rubber transmission cooler line to the trans cooler fittings.
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Unread 11-22-2011, 04:42 AM   #4
shull360CJ7
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I definitely thought of making them myself. The local parts place sells a flaring tool for $50, not sure of the price of the tube bending kit as well as lines, fittings and rubber hose.

I'll have to go to a bigger chain like Advance or Napa today and price it all out.

It looks like the lines were originally all steel from trans to radiator. Why did you use rubber line at the end? That's how mine are now and I thought it was probably because of flex.

Thanks
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

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Unread 11-22-2011, 05:30 AM   #5
Lordwrench
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I have same problem,I'd like to run flex braid but I'm not sure if you can adapt the fittings.
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Unread 11-22-2011, 05:54 AM   #6
mopar346
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I think the reason he used rubber hose is he is running an auxilary tranny cooler.

I bend my own for most stuff for a lot of reasons. Try Harbour Freight for the tools.

I haven't used Classic but I have used Fine Lines in fact looking at a complete set for my son's Camaro right now (the wife loves car parts in the living room). Most of those companies are the same and make quality stuff, the fit is usually good but may require minor tweaking. If you buy OE they will oxidize quickly, if you buy stainless they are hard to get to seal at times. This is especially touchy on tranny lines, you have to crank them down hard and if you aren't careful you can over tighten the fitting into the trannny.

Good luck.
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Unread 11-22-2011, 08:16 AM   #7
shull360CJ7
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I went to Advance this morning and between my daughter being a terror and a useless employee, I made it nowhere.

They sell a flaring kit for $35, looks kind of chincy. They also have a tube bender for $15, looks ok.

I asked if they sell steel brake line and he said "for what vehicle"?. I explained that I need an 8 ft. piece (to cut in half) so I can make my own lines. He looked at me like I had three heads.

I'm gonna run to Harbor Freight this evening and also stop at another parts store where I usually have better luck.

I have no experience with this. How does the flared line seal inside the fitting? Should I be left with one simple fitting on each end that spins around the line to allow it to draw into the tranny or radiator and create the seal? I need a moron diagram. The lines I have now have about three fittings in a row at each end and it just seems more complex than it needs to be.
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

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Unread 11-22-2011, 11:20 AM   #8
motiv8ya
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The lines I used are 3/8 O.D. and the fittings take a 5/8 wrench if that helps when looking for the lines at the store. I have a cheap little hand tubing bender that I used to bend and route them away from the trans, above the exhaust and to the right frame rail. When cutting the line in half make sure you have a fitting on each end and use a tubing cutter. I'm not sure what the fitting on the radiator end looks like because I never had them but the trans end will draw in and seal itself up. On the other end, I just flared it so it wouldn't pull out of the rubber line past the hose clamp. I rented the flare tool for autozone. The fittings on my radiator and trans cooler only take the rubber line so I had to use it. Here's a few pictures. I guess I need to fix my leaking vavle cover now that I looked at them.
image-3610071713.jpg   image-1171476077.jpg   image-3465190927.jpg   image-3103168230.jpg  
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Unread 11-22-2011, 11:44 AM   #9
shull360CJ7
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Thanks! I figured it was 3/8" by looming at it. I wasn't sure that a flared end with just rubber hose and a clamp was the way to go. I think a part of my problem is old rotted rubber too.

I'm gonna pick up the things I need this evening so I can hopefully tackle this Friday.
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

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Unread 11-22-2011, 03:50 PM   #10
shull360CJ7
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Got two 50" pieces of 3/8" line for $5 ea. at and some rubber line for $12 at Pep Boys. Got a flaring tool kit for $10 and a bender for $6 at Harbor Freight.

Now if I can just accomplish this without boning it all up!
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

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Unread 11-22-2011, 05:48 PM   #11
carnuck
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I buy the universal set for an '80ish Chev pickup with TH400 and do slight re-bending at the rad end. You can get a tube to hose coupler (I'm putting some on my Eagle soon)
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Unread 11-22-2011, 06:11 PM   #12
mopar346
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Not sure I ever seen an 8 foot hard line? As mentioned make sure you have your fitting on BEFORE you flare the line.

There are usually brass fitting that go into the tranny and the radiator that the lines screw into. It is designed this way so that if you cross thread something you haven't screw up a component just a brass fitting. Typically your put the fitting in first and tighten it and then thread your line in and tighten it hold the fitting with another wrench.

I typically don't like tieing the line to the frame without a rubber hose to absorb the flex and vibration, under certain circumstance it could cause an issue. If you choice to do it use a soft bracket as modiv8ya did to absorb some of it.

I have several style benders and I prefer my spool type when dealing with smaller lines (3/8 and down). It is compact and fits into places that other benders wont.
twocents.gif

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Unread 11-22-2011, 06:35 PM   #13
shull360CJ7
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The 8' ft piece was just a thought. Sorta like buying a 12' 2x for two 6' pieces, Haha. Had no clue what lengths they came in.

I am not going to attach mine to the frame at all. I plan to pull off the original lines and use them as a template for bending the new ones.

My setup now has three fittings going into the trans. The one that came on the line, going into another then another that goes into the transmission. Seems redundant. Can't I just thread the fitting that came on the line right into the transmission? Or should I have atleast one fitting in between in case I over tighten and damage the threads in the transmission housing.

Thanks for all the input guys. Just don't want to "rig" it and do as solid a job as possible.
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

Immigrant from the CJ world...be patient...I can be taught
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:58 AM   #14
shull360CJ7
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Update. Made a new line to replace the really bad one. Fixed and no leaks finally!

Lesson learned. Have the darn fitting all the way at the end before you start bending because it wont make it around the bends after the fact! $6 mistake.
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'98 Sport, 5 Speed. Green Emerald Metallic. Bestop soft top.
BDS 2" lift, AR steel wheels, 31"x10.5" Goodyears. Stock axles, stock 3.07 gears.

Immigrant from the CJ world...be patient...I can be taught
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #15
mopar346
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Priceless, sorry I didn't mention that tidbit, but I bet you wont forget it next time.

Thanks for the update, glad it worked out for you. One more thing under your belt.
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