Transdapt bolt in sbc mounts - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Transdapt bolt in sbc mounts

ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO December Specials at Jeephut.comAlloy usa heavy duty ball joint kits

Reply
Unread 08-23-2013, 06:32 AM   #1
jeep rio
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canfield Oh
Posts: 432
Transdapt bolt in sbc mounts

Did some searching for reviews with no luck. But I'm starting my resto on my 80 cj5 and just wondering what kind of experience people have had with transdapt bolt in conversion mounts. Just curious of you have to run fender well headers with this kit or if you can run in frame headers and also any other issues. I've got the 350 chevy almost ready to go.

__________________
1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
jeep rio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-26-2013, 11:48 PM   #2
FishnWishn
Registered User
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 17
I have a 73 CJ5 that the PO installed a chevy 4.3ltr in it using the Trans Dapt mounts. He used the stock manifolds and they went inside the frame. I am replacing the 4.3 with a crate SBC from Jegs. They recommended Headman headers for a CJ5 SBC conversion that will also go between the frame.. I should caution you on your choice of headers as the drivers side is a slightly center drop, to clear the mount and starter, and the other side is straight back from the rear of the block. I will be moving the Trans Dapt mount on wed and can send you some pic. I don't know how to resize the pics but here is the 4.3 coming out and the SBC that is going in. Notice where the collector comes down. right between the mount and starter are going to be. If you click the pics you can enlarge the original size.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
FishnWishn is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 10:03 AM   #3
jeep rio
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canfield Oh
Posts: 432
Thanks for the info. Looks like aright squeeze is their any too to put a heat shield on the starter?
__________________
1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
jeep rio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #4
jeep rio
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canfield Oh
Posts: 432
Just curious, you said your starter was on the driver side? On my 350 and most of the ones I've worked on they have it on the driver side as well. Just wondering if that was a typo
__________________
1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
jeep rio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 01:50 PM   #5
CSP
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 12,746
A small block Chevy has the starter on the passenger side if we're talking about left hand drive.

jeep rio I think you made a typo asking about someone else making the same typo.
CSP is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 02:17 PM   #6
jeep rio
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canfield Oh
Posts: 432
HaHa I sure did, sorry Its been a long day out here on the drilling rig Im on. 15hrs into my day already and im ready for bed lol. The brain isn't working
__________________
1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
jeep rio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 10:37 PM   #7
FishnWishn
Registered User
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 17
HEHE. Yea you and me both. I was just back from a 16 hr road trip to check my game cameras. had been up 12 hrs before that and surviving on power drinks and 5 hours. Too old to be pulling an all nighter. Good thing I was off the road by then. I know I was thinking filter but somehow came out starter. You can see the filter in the pic. The exhaust goes straight back past the starter. By the way I am a Rural Letter Carrier and own a right hand drive XJ and RHD Saturn wagon. I always get in any vehicle on the right side. I'm so confused!
FishnWishn is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 08-27-2013, 11:46 PM   #8
WSS
Registered User
1972 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Chino, Ca
Posts: 2,044
I am putting on some tight tuck patriots and also using a hi torque starter to cut the heat problem in the cramped spot. I should have them on tomorrow. It had stock sbc manifolds on them and a super nice exhaust but too much heat. I was having a problem with the crossover exh causing the fuel to boil out of the bowl and flooding/stalling in akward spots. I am also putting on a air gap intake to relieve some top end heat and blocked off the crossover. I could of done the spacer to insulate but this will both look and run cooler LOL



WSS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2013, 11:18 AM   #9
jeep rio
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canfield Oh
Posts: 432
very nice! mines coming along now.
__________________
1997 XJ Sport 2 Door- High country suspension and skid plate package.
2006 TJ- Custom lift 4in Full traction springs, OME shocks, Kilby skid plates and bumper, Full traction 3 link in rear, JKS control arms upper lower, Banks exhaust, Edge trail jammer, 4.56's and true trac front, Eaton elocker rear. D30, D44

1995 YJ Rio Grande- 4.0l Swap 3.5 in 4wd hardware lift, Ford 8.8 Rear 4.10 gears.
jeep rio is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #10
GTNMUDY
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: MADISON, WI
Posts: 202
Some things to consider when swapping in a SBC.

I did mine back in 92, used Advance Adapters for the bell housing to my T-176 and their weld to frame motor mounts. The bell housing made the trans and transfer case fit like stock. I did not need to make any mods to the drive shafts.

Now that you got the HP and Tourque, think about your drive line. I blew the 2 piece rear axles (AMC 20) in 1000 miles. The next thing was the U joint straps. Stock flat straps are junk, after twisting several u-joint out of the yokes I went to the "U" shaped straps and yoke.

Adding headers is not that difficult. I found a set of SBC header at a swap meet for $25. After heating the tubes I was able with the help of a small bottle jack to bend them inward and upward to clear the inside of the frame and line up perfect for a short exhaust exiting out just before the rear tires.

The next big hurdle was getting the heat from the motor, headers out of the engine compartment. I was running temps above 240 when moving down the interstate. I went to a 3 core radiator (4WD.Com) That helped a little. Got rid of the clutch fan and went with a electric pusher fan. Still no good, temps way high. what I ended up with was a 5 blade flex fan. The fan moved alot of air at idle and crusing speeds to get the temps down to 190 - 200 degrees.

Now I got a different issue. If I run the engine and then shut it off for say 10 minutes, the fuel in the carb bowels boil off and I need to crank the engine to fill the bowels and then it will start. If you got fuel injection you wont have this problem.

Be aware of the clearance of the distrubutor and fire wall before you weld up the motor mounts. I use a Unilite distributor on my build he HEI is large.

I am going to replace the aluminum carb spacer with a phenolic one. I also found a louver panel for the top of the hood. This will allow the heat to get out of the engine compartment.

One thing I learned when I put the SBC in was it there is something weak in your drive line you will find it quick.

You will love your new CJ with that SBC. It was the best thing I ever did to my 84 CJ

Have fun and let us know how it came out.

Larry
GTNMUDY is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-24-2013, 02:46 AM   #11
dg6772
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Muskegon, Michigan
Posts: 1,694
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTNMUDY View Post
Some things to consider when swapping in a SBC.

I did mine back in 92, used Advance Adapters for the bell housing to my T-176 and their weld to frame motor mounts. The bell housing made the trans and transfer case fit like stock. I did not need to make any mods to the drive shafts.

Now that you got the HP and Tourque, think about your drive line. I blew the 2 piece rear axles (AMC 20) in 1000 miles. The next thing was the U joint straps. Stock flat straps are junk, after twisting several u-joint out of the yokes I went to the "U" shaped straps and yoke.

Adding headers is not that difficult. I found a set of SBC header at a swap meet for $25. After heating the tubes I was able with the help of a small bottle jack to bend them inward and upward to clear the inside of the frame and line up perfect for a short exhaust exiting out just before the rear tires.

The next big hurdle was getting the heat from the motor, headers out of the engine compartment. I was running temps above 240 when moving down the interstate. I went to a 3 core radiator (4WD.Com) That helped a little. Got rid of the clutch fan and went with a electric pusher fan. Still no good, temps way high. what I ended up with was a 5 blade flex fan. The fan moved alot of air at idle and crusing speeds to get the temps down to 190 - 200 degrees.

Now I got a different issue. If I run the engine and then shut it off for say 10 minutes, the fuel in the carb bowels boil off and I need to crank the engine to fill the bowels and then it will start. If you got fuel injection you wont have this problem.

Be aware of the clearance of the distrubutor and fire wall before you weld up the motor mounts. I use a Unilite distributor on my build he HEI is large.

I am going to replace the aluminum carb spacer with a phenolic one. I also found a louver panel for the top of the hood. This will allow the heat to get out of the engine compartment.

One thing I learned when I put the SBC in was it there is something weak in your drive line you will find it quick.

You will love your new CJ with that SBC. It was the best thing I ever did to my 84 CJ

Have fun and let us know how it came out.

Larry
Is your fuel boiling off?? My father-in-law's 327 does that. We found a leak between carb body parts and rebuilt it...no more issues. His fueI was draing back to tank.

Dave in Muskegon
dg6772 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-25-2013, 03:15 PM   #12
GTNMUDY
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: MADISON, WI
Posts: 202
Well, I have always had a over heating in the engine compartment. After taking the CJ-7 out of mothballs for 6 years, it would start hard. Didnt do it before I stored it.

Cleaned out the carb to solve a real lean running, re-jetted the carb. Found a weak fuel pump replaced that and it runs much better.

After bringing up the engine to operating temps and then let it sit for 10 minutes or over night when trying to start I need pump the peddle 2 times start it and then must let it idle for about 45 second before I try to move. If I try to move right after starting it will stall out and quit running.

I did some investigating and discovered that before I started the engine I removed the fuel line to the carb. Noticed no fuel at the fitting on the carb.

Stuck the fuel line into a bottle and cranked the engine. After about 5 seconds I could see fuel gushing into the bottle.

I talked to a speed shop owner and he told me that he has the same issues with the AC Corbra kit cars with big block engines. He came up with a small fan and ducted a air hose to the side of the carb ontop of the engine (showed me a picture of it). His contention is that the alcohol in the fuel will boil off and cause the floats to sink and starve the engine of fuel until the bowels fill back up.

He claimed that using a aluminum spacer between the intake and carb will transfer the heat to the carb when sitting and his blower configuration will help eliminate that problem by blowing outside air across the carb body.

Well it seem like a good explanation and I can see where the alcohol will boil at a lower temp than gas. I wasnt to sure about the plumbing of his blower and maybe he was just trying to sell me one.

Since 92 after I swapped the SBC in I have always noticed that the hood of the jeep stays warm (or hot) for a long time when sitting. The Jefferson Wi., swap meet is this weekend and I will be looking for a different spacer for the carb, going with wood or composite material to help insulate the heat transfer issues.

Today I also received my louver panel for the top of the hood. This will allow a lot of heat to vent out of the engine compartment.
I found them here: www.americanrockrods.com

Painting it today and will have installed by the weekend. I wish I would have had this back in the 90's. I feel confident that it will solve my heat issues in the engine compartment (should also look cool)

Larry
GTNMUDY is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.