Tranny Mount (stabilizer side) for CJ7 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-10-2002, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
Jeep Daddy
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Question Tranny Mount (stabilizer side) for CJ7

The PO has a bunch of washers in the side tranny mount and I was wondering what is the proper adjustment or shimming of the stabilizer tranny mount?

For those that don't know what I'm talking about, the tranny has 2 mounts. One is in the center of the tranny that has 2 bolts going through the skid to the mount. The other one is on the drivers side to take up the engine torque. It has a stud that is nutted to the skid plate, two poly bushings above the skid plate, some washers, (that's what I'm not sure about), the steel tranny mount and a nut on that.

Anybody know the exact configuration for this? Please don't guess on this. I like to do things right, not Mickey Mouse.


2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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post #2 of 8 Old 10-11-2002, 03:37 AM
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No Micky here as I replaced one a few hours ago with a clutch job. For your T5, use the reward most set of holes on the trans. The tricky part for some, is that the tourqe arm extends past the mounting surface of the tranny and sticks out (one hole worth) toward the frond driveshaft yoke. A bolt and nut attach the trans mount to the arm at this location. The 2 holes to use on the bottom of the transmission (to attach the mount and arm combo) is the center one (goes through the other side of mount and the arm, AND the drivers side (of the 3 holes) which will only go through the arm. This will leave the rest of the arm to stick out towards the drivers side to locate the stud. The bottom of the stud is bolted tight to the pan while the top part comtains the bushings on either side of the arm and a big washer and nut on top that is snugged down only to press everthing together some. Not major tight as some do it. The mistake that I have seen is that people leave the pan side of the stud loose and this wollows out the pan hole. The washers are on the top and bottom of the bushings only, while the bushing touch each other at the center......through the arm.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
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post #3 of 8 Old 10-11-2002, 06:45 AM
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I know you dont want guesses but is it possable that the engine sits lower on the mounts on the passenger side ( unsure on the 258 mounts, but the 304 has slots for adjustment) causing the torque bushing on the drivers side to lsit higher and make space that was taken up buy shims/ washers?
You may want to try and rotate the motor in the mounts to bring that bushing closer to the pan.
just my 2cents

1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-11-2002, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Pic of Stabilizer bushing

Here's a pic of how I think it should be. I've been on 3 forums and have 3 different answers on how this should be. Can anyone tell me if they think this is right or not. The pic is of my skid mounted in a vise with my stabilizer bushing in the pic.



2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.

Last edited by Jeep Daddy; 10-11-2002 at 11:45 AM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 10-11-2002, 05:41 PM
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Thats what mine looks like.

Former CJ'er
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-11-2002, 07:41 PM
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That doesnt look right to me, There is a reason that bushing is two peices, it should isolate that metal mount. Otherwise it would be a one piece bushing.
Is there enough room to put another nut under the lower bushing to adjust the amount of slop?
Unfortunately i dont have mine in front of me to look at so im going from memory here.

1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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post #7 of 8 Old 10-13-2002, 12:26 AM
RODDOR
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Jeep Daddy your setup in your photo is wrong. Only in a jeep CJ gave the correct setup. One bushing needs to be on top of the metal channel and one needs to be underneath. I'm not a computer guy. But if you have a fax I can fax you an exploded view of a proper set up that I got from a dealership. There is also an old JP magazine artical that shows the same set up for the poly mounts that you are using. With some looking I can tell you what edition its out of or I can fax a copy of it to you. I found on mine that if you double nut the end that goes through the skid pan it won't come loose and waller out the stud hole.
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-13-2002, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Some of you guys are right, some wrong. The ones that are wrong have it like me. The stabilizer arm is suposed to be sandwiched between the bushings and the short end of the stud through the skid plate. I just got back from a place that has about 15 CJ's on the lot and I looked under all of them. Even the automatic trans has it like that. I was a little surprised because it just doesn't seem to fit tight like I thought it should.

Oh well, I'll do it right and take someones advise to double nut the bottom one. The skid plate is wallered out a little and my old stud was toast.

Thanks again.

2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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