[COBRA5LADDICT]

anyone have a write up? i need to wire up the cj for a flat 4 plug to tow a small trailer.

thanks!

[BioTex]

An easy way to do this is to purchase a 12v tester for a couple of buck at the Parts store. It will have a sharp point that you stick into the insulation of the wire, until it contacts the copper. The aligator clip will go to ground to complete the cicuit. This way you simply turn on a turn signal, and see which wire causes the light on the testor to blink. This will identify which wire is for that function. Then have someone hit the brakes, and see which wire causes the test light to illuminate etc... Hope this helps. If you need more detail, can do!

[John Strenk]

I made my splices in the interior and ran them out the back door. That way the splice doesn't get attacked by spray thrown up by the tire.

[Scrambler82]

BioTex has the right approach except that the wires go Running Lights and Brake Turn.

Four wires are needed, Two Brake/Turn signals one for each side (large filament), one for the tail lights attached to both tail lights (small filament) and one for the ground( don't depend on the hitch to supply a good ground).

[CrazyHorse6]

[IMG][/IMG]

Hopefully this will help- you didn't mention what year or what type of CJ, so here is a wiring setup for a 79 CJ7. On mine I just tapped into the wiring harness as it runs along the tub next to the rear mount for the roll bar and have about 4 feet or so of slack to reach out to the trailer. This way its protected from the elements. The white wire carries the signal for your tail lights, the light green with TR is your left turn signal, the light green without TR is your right turn signal and the white with TR is for your backup lights.
On my trailer wiring harness, the brown was for the tail lights, the green was for the right turn, and the yellow was for the left turn and a white for ground. So, brown to white, green to light green w/out TR, yellow to light green with TR, and white to ground and you should be all set. Like BioTex said, have someone check you out first.
Good luck

[mike06X]

I think this is well covered here; but the flat-4 trailer harness standard color functions are..easiest way is with a 12v test light, probe, and those blue-squeeze scotchlock clips work out great..
white: ground
brown: tail
yellow: left turn / brake
green: right turn / brake

[awful8484]

I was really looking for a how-to to do this. I have an 85 CJ that needs a trailer harness too. Does anyone have any diagram on an 85 color code for the wiring loom running to the back? Much appreciated.

[Cutlass327]

Please, just unplug the 4-way to the taillight and operate the different lights while CAREFULLY probing the harness side of the connector. Piercing the insulation leaves the wire open to corrosion. Same as those dam scotch locks. I went to NAPA, got 2 complete 4-pin connectors that plugged into the harnes, and made a harness that fit in between the harness and the taillight. Do not jam the test light into the connector either, it spreads the connector contacts for a loose connection, just lightly touch the test light probe to the metal inside the connector. Even better is to add some dielectric grease in the cinnectors to help seal even better.

The taillights on mine have Red, Black, green (may be brown - I am rd/gr colorblind ), and white. Black is tail, red is stop/turn, white is ground, and the green is reverse. I used the 2 connectors, some 4-wire trailer harness wire, and a 4-pin trailer harness. Made 2 jumpers using the 4-conductor, one for each side. spliced into 4 wires of the jumper for the left side, and then into the turn signal wire of the right side. I made the length between the 2 jumpers long enough to go across to each side of the Jeep. In the middle I spliced in the trailer 4-pin. Solder and heat shrink all of the splices. Then all you need to do is disconnect each tail light, plug in your vehicle's harness to your new harness, then plug your harness into the tail lights. verify proper operation of the vehicle's lights, and also of the trailer's.

This will keep the vehicle's harness free from corrosion-causing hacking/piercing and it is also removable if you don't want the trailer's harness on the vehicle all of the time.

[BioTex]

Originally Posted by awful8484

I was really looking for a how-to to do this. I have an 85 CJ that needs a trailer harness too. Does anyone have any diagram on an 85 color code for the wiring loom running to the back? Much appreciated.

It's in the FSM. There is a link to it here on the forum.

[red mistress]

Originally Posted by Cutlass327

Please, just unplug the 4-way to the taillight and operate the different lights while CAREFULLY probing the harness side of the connector. Piercing the insulation leaves the wire open to corrosion. Same as those dam scotch locks. I went to NAPA, got 2 complete 4-pin connectors that plugged into the harnes, and made a harness that fit in between the harness and the taillight. Do not jam the test light into the connector either, it spreads the connector contacts for a loose connection, just lightly touch the test light probe to the metal inside the connector. Even better is to add some dielectric grease in the cinnectors to help seal even better.

The taillights on mine have Red, Black, green (may be brown - I am rd/gr colorblind ), and white. Black is tail, red is stop/turn, white is ground, and the green is reverse. I used the 2 connectors, some 4-wire trailer harness wire, and a 4-pin trailer harness. Made 2 jumpers using the 4-conductor, one for each side. spliced into 4 wires of the jumper for the left side, and then into the turn signal wire of the right side. I made the length between the 2 jumpers long enough to go across to each side of the Jeep. In the middle I spliced in the trailer 4-pin. Solder and heat shrink all of the splices. Then all you need to do is disconnect each tail light, plug in your vehicle's harness to your new harness, then plug your harness into the tail lights. verify proper operation of the vehicle's lights, and also of the trailer's.

This will keep the vehicle's harness free from corrosion-causing hacking/piercing and it is also removable if you don't want the trailer's harness on the vehicle all of the time.

This sums it all up!
I've been looking for way to add trailer wiring harness to CJ without splicing or scotch locks.

Guess U made your own.

Anyone else made plug-n-play or T connector trailer wiring harness for CJ ?

[1986cj]

I agree with John Strenk on this one. I had pulled a tail light off and there is a lot of wires in there. I got the drivers side to work and hooked up the pass side and the drivers side would not work right anymore. I finely got fed up (to put it nicely) and decided to hook it up before all the wires that are down there. On the back of the tub, Inside back where the hard top light plugs into the loom you will find the wires before they become a lot of wires. I drilled and put a grommet next to where the factory loom goes through and taped in my wires right there inside on the cab. Mine is a 86 but the Green wire is the right turn and the Green wire with a Black tracer was the left tail light. These two will also make your brake lights work. The White wire is the tail lights. I just ran a ground from the frame to the connector. Not needed but also in that loom is a White wire with Red tracer for the back up lights. Pink/Red is fuel sender and there is a orange and black wire that go to the dome light for the hard top on mine. I found this a LOT easer to do. Hope it helps.

[mopar408]

and those blue-squeeze scotchlock clips work out great..

As if a Jeep didn't have enough wiring problems already. If I had a dollar for every one of those things I've ever thrown away, I'd buy a TDK frame.
Soldered connections, heat-shrink tubing, dielectric grease and extra dedicated grounds.