towing a 1978 cj7 with rv - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 57 Old 02-05-2017, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
iamjwh
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towing a 1978 cj7 with rv

I want to tow my 1978 cj 7 304/t150/d20 stock amc, behind my winnie class a, but the threads on how to hook up and flat pull vs. using a trailer vs. using a tow dolly are all over the place. The owners manual says lock the select drive, put the tranny in neutral, put the tc in neutral and tow with all four wheels down or with a dolly. I thought I could follow the manual, maybe put the tranny in fourth gear to move the gears and sling more oil, and count on the sump in the dana 20 to bathe the output bearings. Probably ought to reinforce the stock bumper and hook up a blue ox or a curt 19475 adjustable tow bar. But since it will pulled from behind a 34 foot winnie, I want to make sure I don't have to worry about it.... its a 78 jeep with 53000 on the odometer. Any advice?

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post #2 of 57 Old 02-05-2017, 09:00 AM
pedal2themetai
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Hi, I dont' know what it means by lock the select drive? I would not leave anything in gear or locked.. the only thing I'd leave locked in would be the front hubs so the barrens get lubed.
good luck
tim
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post #3 of 57 Old 02-05-2017, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
iamjwh
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I took it to mean lock the front hubs....
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post #4 of 57 Old 02-05-2017, 09:08 AM
outdoorguy86
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I made a bar to flat tow my 83cj7. It is basically a triangle that has tabs that I could hook to the D-ring mounts on my bumper (I have an genright boulder bumper). I have used it several times, sometimes without issues, other times with issues.

The general consensus is if you are going to go a short distance (which is sounds like you are not) you can put everything in neutral and then stop every 150 miles or so and turn it on to get the oil moving and relubricate things. The issue is that no one tells you that you have to take into account gearing.... I was towing the cj back up to Boulder from Colorado Springs with my dads F350. Everything was in neutral. Doing 85 up the interstate I look in the side mirror and see smoke pouring out from under the jeep. Because of the 4.10 gearing on the axle, it had the rear axle shaft screaming in rpms and it was too much for the bearing on the tcase. It heated up and started buring off all the oil in the tcase. After waving off the fire department and pulling the driveshaft, I made it the rest of the way without issues. The lesson here is to watch your speed based on axle gearing.

The best solution is going to be to pull the rear driveshaft off the rear axle and strap or tie it up to the frame. Yes it takes a little longer to do, but it is the best way to do it. Look up regulations, some states if not most require a braking system to be installed. That is probably a good idea since you have quite a bit of weight in the winnie with the jeep behind. Same advice to pull the driveshaft for if you do a dolly and have wheels on the ground.

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post #5 of 57 Old 02-05-2017, 09:25 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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You'll get various opinions, but I've flat-towed my CJ behind my RV for thousands of miles following the Owners Manual instructions to the letter.

In your case, those instructions are: key in unlocked position, hubs locked, t-case and trans in neutral.

Some will claim you need to disconnect the driveshafts, but the one and only time I did that, it was a disaster. I broke a u-joint strap bolt while reinstalling the driveshaft in the mud at hunt camp. I didn't have the necessary tools to extract the bolt, so I was left with front-wheel drive only for the week long hunt. That severely limited the terrain that we could access. I will never do that again.

Matt
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post #6 of 57 Old 02-06-2017, 07:15 AM
Makanak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
You'll get various opinions, but I've flat-towed my CJ behind my RV for thousands of miles following the Owners Manual instructions to the letter.

In your case, those instructions are: key in unlocked position, hubs locked, t-case and trans in neutral.
...

Matt
Why hubs locked?

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post #7 of 57 Old 02-06-2017, 07:25 AM
bob4703
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I put more miles on our 74 each year in tow mode than I do driving it. I put the TC and transmission in neutral and ensure the hubs are unlocked.

Don't see the logic in locking the hubs while towing when I drive with them unlocked in 2WD. Also why put the transmission in gear? If the TC is in neutral then the main transmission is not going to turn. Hunger pains and kidneys don't allow legs of any trip to go much over 150 miles and I always check tow bar connections, transmissions, and hubs at each stop. This may not be what the owner's manual recommends, but I've never seen one.

A rear facing camera is essential when towing with a RV.

I never tow my Jeep any faster then the speed I feel comfortable driving it. This is usually not a problem with my RV.

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post #8 of 57 Old 02-06-2017, 07:52 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makanak View Post
Why hubs locked?

Makanak
To keep the T-case oiled.

The D20 is different from the D300 in this way. The D300 doesn't oil itself in neutral with, or without, the hubs locked. The D20 does with the hubs locked.

That's why the Owners Manual of D300-equipped CJs say to periodically stop and run the engine when flat-towing. That oils the t-case and prevents the output bearing from burning up when you keep the driveshaft connected.

Matt
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post #9 of 57 Old 02-06-2017, 12:48 PM
LumpyGrits
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Cj

I have towed my CJ all over the western USA.
I have found that the couple of minutes it takes to disco the rear DS at the pinion and hang the shaft up(cover u-joint with old sock)well worth the peace of mind. No need to lock the hubs or such when you do this.
Don't forget to un-lock the steering wheel.

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #10 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 04:50 AM
John Strenk
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How Odd,
My 76 CJ had a Dana 20 and here are excepts from the owners manual
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post #11 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 06:23 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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This is from the '77 FSM:

Matt
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post #12 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 06:46 AM
Makanak
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1982 TSM part 2 section D:

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Makanak

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post #13 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 07:18 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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From my 1981 Owners Manual:

Notice the additional NOTE for CJs.

Matt
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post #14 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 07:24 AM
Irie5678
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I thought the reason so many people tow Jeeps was because they didn't have to disconnect the drive shaft...

I'm more worried about our 37 year old Jeep being towed 1000 miles.
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post #15 of 57 Old 02-07-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irie5678 View Post
I thought the reason so many people tow Jeeps was because they didn't have to disconnect the drive shaft...

I'm more worried about our 37 year old Jeep being towed 1000 miles.
You don't have to disconnect the driveshafts, if you run the engine every 200 towed miles, or so. I simply fire the engine up every time I stop to fill the RV with fuel, or take a restroom break. This is much easier for me than messing with the driveshafts.

I've used this procedure for over 30K towed miles without problems. And my T-case has never needed to be cracked open.

Matt
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