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Unread 11-14-2008, 12:38 PM   #1
Coiz
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Torque Arm, should I add (make) one?

I finally got my chassis all painted and ready to go back together. During tear down I noticed that my trans mount was collapsed toward the passengers side. Probably because my cheap conversion engine mounts were twisted in the same direction so my whole drive train was leaning to the passengers side, they couldn't handle the power of my 5.0L HO.The transfer case also hangs a lot of weight toward the passengers side off the end of the trans.

So I welded in the new style engine mounts from AA and they appear to be 10x stronger then the junk I installed 10 years ago. My Jeep was originally an automatic but was converted to a manual trans by the PO. I have since upgraded that to a NP435 and kept the D300. There was never a torque arm on the trans since I have owned it and I would like to keep that trans mount from collapsing again in the future.

So my question is, will I be alright with the beefy engine mounts and new poly trans mount or should I add the torque arm for added strength? If I want to add one, where can I buy the plate that bolts between the trans and the mount? Or, does someone sell a complete kit?

If I can't buy one and just decide to make one, would 1/4" bar stock be strong enough? I think I can figure out the bushing end of things by using a bolt or all thread with multiple nuts and washers with new replacement torque arm bushings. Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks.

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Unread 11-14-2008, 03:19 PM   #2
John Strenk
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I think it would be just as simple to make a stronger one then buy a new one.
When you make one, be aware that the tranny mount is offset so the main force is cmpression during acceleration.
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Unread 11-14-2008, 03:48 PM   #3
Coiz
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I noticed that in a few of the pictures I had found that the trans mount was not centered like mine currently is. So offset the trans mount to the passengers side and make the torque arm long enough to reach the furthest holes in the cross member? Do you think a piece of 1/4" bar stock would be strong enough or should I go thicker?
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Unread 11-14-2008, 04:24 PM   #4
John Strenk
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Yes, offset it.

Will a 1/4" be thick enough? I don't know the original is thin but bent to about 3/8" for strength. I don't know the equivalnt strenth between a flat stock and a reinforced thin piece. There should be one engineer on here that could answer that.
t-17xtrannymount.jpg  
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Unread 11-14-2008, 05:09 PM   #5
Coiz
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Yeah, the one in your photo looks awfully wavy. I may look for something a little thicker or use the 1/4" and weld a smaller (.5") piece at the 90* to add the same type of reinforcement that the bend is trying to accomplish.
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Unread 11-14-2008, 06:29 PM   #6
Slawth
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Post #10 in this thread shows a fab'd torque arm that HackFab made for his T18. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...ght=torque+arm It appears to be 1/4" stock and is quite sexy. I would wager that 1/4" stock is more than adequate for your intended use.
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Unread 11-14-2008, 07:05 PM   #7
Coiz
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Hard to tell by that picture but it looks like his trans mount is centered and not offset, which would make it much easier for me. It also looks like that arm is more like 5/16" instead of the 3/16" as he mentioned. Maybe he will see this and confirm that for me. At least it gives me a solid idea of what I want to do with mine.


Hackfab's torque arm setup:
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Unread 11-14-2008, 08:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Hard to tell by that picture but it looks like his trans mount is centered and not offset, which would make it much easier for me. .....
It might be the easy way but would it be the cowboy way?
You will be putting more strain on the small bushing then and still be torquing the tranny mount.
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Unread 12-22-2008, 08:15 PM   #9
Coiz
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Torque Arm

I also added this to my build thread but figured I would post it here as an update in case someone was using the search.

So after some proper motivation from John Strenk, I decided to build a torque arm and move the mounts from its current center position and offset it toward the passenger side. I was originally going to use a piece of " x 2" thick bar stock but was having trouble finding a piece at the local stores. They all have " x 1.5" but not the 2" wide. When I got the torque arm mounts I put the two pieces of rubber together and measured that they have a 5/16" gap. I already had a piece of 3/16"x 2" and a piece of 1/8" x 2". So I clamped them together and started welding. I ended up with a 14" long piece of 5/16" x 2" bar stock.

I moved the transmission mount toward the passenger side and determined which holes in the skid plate would be used. This made the inner mount bolt hole very close to the center support brace on the adapter. I measured and marked the pieces then took it all apart. I had to drill a new hole in the trans adapter for the inner mount bolt.

Then I used the existing hole on the opposite side of the adapter and drilled a hole in the torque arm to match. This made sure the rubber mount had 2 bolts to the arm and the arm had 2 bolts through the adapter.

I bolted the entire thing back to the trans and skid plate to determine the correct point to drill the hole for the torque arm bushings.


So I measured and marked the correct location and took it back apart. I had to buy a $40 stepped drill bit to drill the 7/8" hole for the torque arm. I used a friend's drill press to make this a bit cleaner. Thanks Aaron. At this point I also cut about 2" off the end to make it the correct length.


This is the measurement that showed the arm should be 5/16" thick.


Of course I had to bolt it all back together again just to make sure everything lined up and bolted together.


So I took it all apart, primed and painted the torque arm, then put it all back together again.


Another angle


I think I put that thing together and pulled it apart about 5 times. It was a bit of work but well worth the effort. It might not be quite as pretty as Hack's but I am glad I took the time to do this and I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
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Last edited by Coiz; 12-22-2008 at 09:19 PM..
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Unread 12-22-2008, 08:28 PM   #10
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The original bushing setup does not compress against the metal but leaves a little gap in there so the engine can rock a little. The bushings should just be tight enough to make contact with each other.

But I wouldn't change anything you did already.
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Unread 12-22-2008, 09:23 PM   #11
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The 5/16" seemed to just slide right in and they are not overly compressed. Plus you can see a little bevel on the drilled hole which also gave them a little more room.
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Unread 06-24-2011, 03:46 PM   #12
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Related torque arm question

My T18 (circa 1977) does not have a torque arm. Maybe it was lost.

I was going to fab one, as shown in this thread, but I noticed my Dana 20 (circa 1974) has a torque arm, of sorts, of its own. It appears to use the two bolts that hold up the tranny skid plate on the passenger side. The Dana 20 on the right in the picture has what I am calling the torque arm.

Would the Dana 20 "torque arm" alone prevent the powertrain from rotating? Or should I install a torque arm on the T18 as well?
suc50026.jpg.scaled1000.jpg  
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #13
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I just saw this thread and wanted to see if anyone could answer this question. Were Torque arms in all CJ-7's? My 79 does not have one but I know that my trans (T-18) is not original. Is it as easy as getting an arm from where the trans is bolted to the skid plate out to an outboard location with bushings?
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Unread 04-05-2013, 06:41 AM   #14
nshefbuch
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^ it's just as simple as bolting in a plate but the plate can't be just flat or it would bend. Even the C-channel type bends as shown in previous pics above if enough torque is present.

Here is how I made mine. I took a different approach. Works very well.
image-3043422584.jpg   image-1683220920.jpg  
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Unread 04-05-2013, 08:16 AM   #15
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May be to late to chime in, but after I added the Bomb Proof motor mounts I got rid of the torque arm completely, bolted the tranny directly and I haven't had any problems at all!!!

'cept this darn brake upgrade...but that is a different story!
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