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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 05-13-2013, 10:00 AM   #16
brycez28
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxJeeper20 View Post
My question is does it have to be an automatic? many fine manuals that will allow a bit longer drive shaft.

And the topic of when is a CJ unsafe?
My 5 tracks straight and stops well and as long as I am in the interstate 70 MPH is no problem thanks to overdrive and a 350. and yes If a dog ran in front of it id just have to mash it no evasive manuvers , unless I have a second or two to react. Its not a sportscar . just because it can go that fast doesn't mean you do it . I only come near 70in the long straight parts of the 70 MPH zones.
It doesn't have to be automatic, I would actually prefer manual. It is just a matter of finding a manual transmission that has a tranfer case and will bolt to my engine.


As far as registration, I shouldn't have any issues in Wisconsin. From the DMV website, I should have two options (WI dmv will do anything to get your $$$):

Reconstructed vehicles
•Must be constructed from a vehicle 20 or more model years old.
•Must no longer resemble the original vehicle.
•Application materials must include a bill of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle.
•If the vehicle qualifies, it must pass a safety and equipment inspection with the Wisconsin State Patrol.

Homemade motorized vehicles
•Homemade motor vehicles, other than motorcycles, may qualify for Hobbyist plates.
•The vehicle must have been constructed from new or used parts not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle.
•Homemade motorcycles that replicate a motorcycle 20 or more model years old.
•Application materials must include a bill of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle.
•If the vehicle qualifies, it must pass a safety and equipment inspection with the Wisconsin State Patrol.

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Unread 05-13-2013, 02:02 PM   #17
ratmonkey
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if it's anything like PA special vehicles you have to provide not only the bill of sale for the major items. but also the VIN of the vehicle you got the parts from and proof that it was recycled/destroyed and no longer on the road.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 02:31 PM   #18
brycez28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
if it's anything like PA special vehicles you have to provide not only the bill of sale for the major items. but also the VIN of the vehicle you got the parts from and proof that it was recycled/destroyed and no longer on the road.
In WI, sounds like they are looking for bill of sale and title (if available) for major parts as well. Sounds like they would like VINs, but not neccessary if it is unknown.
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Unread 05-13-2013, 04:42 PM   #19
chatham
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built several jeeps and one of my last ones was a 71 CJ5. driveline was 350 SBC pushing 325hp, Saginaw 4sp, advance adapter to D18 transfer case and warn overdrive. axles had 4:88's. I loved the setup. would climb a building. with the 4sp, dual shift transfer case and overdrive I had a combination of 16 forward gears and 4 reverse. nothing I couldn't do. the driveline will handle the power if you don't do one thing, try to show how cool you are and attempt to lay down the tires. I have seen more than one guy split those early transfer cases right in half from the torque. but once you get the things turning you can dump the power into them and scream away. there have been quite a few vettes, camaro's and mustangs that can vouch for that. now having said all of that, if you have the funds I would surely consider dumping the D18 in favor of new strength and technology.

upgrading the motor means upgrading many things, cooling, stopping, air and fuel, suspension (weight distribution) roll sway, steering and safety. all this is relatively easy and if you like building a lot of fun.

no way I would keep the 9" brakes. absolutely not enough stopping power. going fast is great but stopping fast is just as important and there is no way they will do it ever. you must upgrade to 11" in the rear and disc up front and as said above got to upgrade the whole braking system.

got to change the brake and clutch pedals to swing pedals. if you cant find jeep pedals there are several cars out there at junk yards that you can find swing pedals from and make them work. not that hard. switch to power brakes and hydraulic clutch. hydraulic is so much easier than trying to fab and mount cable or rod clutch set up.

full cage absolutely. I have never ever needed the ones I have had but the point is safety needs to be there when you do need it. just like the brakes. make sure the safety belts mount locations are secure and improved if necessary. the forces in a rolling vehicle are amazing and you don't want to be thrown out if it happens.

a early jeep is short and the pre 72's are even shorter. but I have driven CJ5's down the road all day at what ever the speed limit would let me and I have driven them even faster and never felt concerned. but if something happens you have to have a vehicle that can react quickly and handle it. any vehicle over corrected can be a problem not just a CJ.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 10:14 AM   #20
brycez28
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Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by chatham View Post
built several jeeps and one of my last ones was a 71 CJ5. driveline was 350 SBC pushing 325hp, Saginaw 4sp, advance adapter to D18 transfer case and warn overdrive. axles had 4:88's. I loved the setup. would climb a building. with the 4sp, dual shift transfer case and overdrive I had a combination of 16 forward gears and 4 reverse. nothing I couldn't do. the driveline will handle the power if you don't do one thing, try to show how cool you are and attempt to lay down the tires. I have seen more than one guy split those early transfer cases right in half from the torque. but once you get the things turning you can dump the power into them and scream away. there have been quite a few vettes, camaro's and mustangs that can vouch for that. now having said all of that, if you have the funds I would surely consider dumping the D18 in favor of new strength and technology.

upgrading the motor means upgrading many things, cooling, stopping, air and fuel, suspension (weight distribution) roll sway, steering and safety. all this is relatively easy and if you like building a lot of fun.

no way I would keep the 9" brakes. absolutely not enough stopping power. going fast is great but stopping fast is just as important and there is no way they will do it ever. you must upgrade to 11" in the rear and disc up front and as said above got to upgrade the whole braking system.

got to change the brake and clutch pedals to swing pedals. if you cant find jeep pedals there are several cars out there at junk yards that you can find swing pedals from and make them work. not that hard. switch to power brakes and hydraulic clutch. hydraulic is so much easier than trying to fab and mount cable or rod clutch set up.

full cage absolutely. I have never ever needed the ones I have had but the point is safety needs to be there when you do need it. just like the brakes. make sure the safety belts mount locations are secure and improved if necessary. the forces in a rolling vehicle are amazing and you don't want to be thrown out if it happens.

a early jeep is short and the pre 72's are even shorter. but I have driven CJ5's down the road all day at what ever the speed limit would let me and I have driven them even faster and never felt concerned. but if something happens you have to have a vehicle that can react quickly and handle it. any vehicle over corrected can be a problem not just a CJ.
Thank you for the information and tip on the clutch! I will be looking for different axles (possibly from a ford bronco) that have larger brakes. I will be putting in seats with 4 point harnesses.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #21
TxJeeper20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycez28 View Post
It doesn't have to be automatic, I would actually prefer manual. It is just a matter of finding a manual transmission that has a tranfer case and will bolt to my engine.


.
Well your in luck try novak adaptors, manuals are shorter and allow longer drivelines

I chose the AX15 for overdrive and it was the only 5 speed to fit in my 5 that was tough enough for a 350.

but there are plenty of adaptable trannys out there
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Unread 05-16-2013, 04:05 AM   #22
JeePete
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Posts: 209
Bryce,

It sounds like you are trying to do this on the cheap, which is fine. You may be seeing from others, that you might have to back off your expectations a little, given you're trying to propel (and de-propel) an old vehicle, unless you're willing to spend some time and money to "do it" right. Not that it can't be done, it just takes planning and using others experience to frame your scope of work is smart, so good for you.

As it would be on many "things that go" cars, boats, motorcycles forums are a great tool to get opinions and advise from those who have gone before you. Furthermore, FWIW, there's always "the old guys" that have been wrenching before forums existed and younger folks full of piss and vinegar. (Not saying this is the case, but you can learn a lot from heeding advise)

So FWIW, I was rebuilding starters & alternators when I was 14 yo. moved on to doing auto body in HS part time. Did my fair share of racing/street racing. Always the guy who fixed family & neighbors cars. Helped a friend in HS that dropped a 302 in a Pinto.

So my belabored point is, if you've ever been in a car that had smoke go by the windows, you'll never forget it. We were trying to back a car down from triple digits (this was 30+ years ago) and basically the brakes took us from 120-ish, down to about 80-90 mph, then nothing. Brakes had completely over heated and were useless. Touch the brake pedal, smoke goes by the windows....

Trying to get anything to stop, that has insufficient brakes is REALLY scary. Glad you're heeding the advice and looking at axles with the larger brakes.

Keep us posted with your continued thoughts and we'll keep making sure you're on track...

Carry on!

PK
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