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Unread 01-27-2011, 08:21 AM   #91
TKFireman
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Apex, North Carolina
Posts: 1,228
thanks fuzz 401, I highly doubt mine will ever see 6000, doubt it will see 4000 very often if ever, which is why I elected not to add the valley oil mod.

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Unread 01-27-2011, 04:26 PM   #92
TKFireman
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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well, didn't get as much done today as I thought I would, but I'm in no rush, taking my time and making sure I do it right, following instructions from both the box wrench video and my machinist.

I installed the cam, turned a little hard, had trouble figuring out which bearing was causing it, so I cut the old cam in 5 pieces and checked each bearing one at a time, found the problem to be both the 3 and 4 bearings, borrowed a bearing scraper, and it spins nice now.

I then installed the main bearings and checked all the gaps with plastigage. Mains 1 through 4 were around .002" or a fuzz smaller and main 5 was about .003". From what I see, everything is in spec there.

My machinist told me to use Permatex #51531 anerobic flange sealer for the rear main instead of RTV. Said it will compress between the newly machined surfaces of the main cap the the block, where the silicon will not compress, kicking the cap off at an angle, made since to me, so I ordered a small tube of it today

I'll spare myself the embarrassment of telling ya'll about the rest of my day, but will say, use grade 8 bolts in your engine stand, didn't drop the engine, but did brake a bolt off, got it out with screw extractor.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 09:10 PM   #93
fuzz401
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Location: Lancaster, Pa.
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.002 / .003 sounds real good
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 01-30-2011, 03:12 PM   #94
TKFireman
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Apex, North Carolina
Posts: 1,228
Had a little time today and got the timing set on, and checked bearing clearances on rods 1 through 4, all around .0017", guessing cause its smaller than .002 and bigger than .0015, which are the readings on the plastigage. Hopefully I'll do the other 4 tomorrow. Lubed the bearings back up and installed the pistons with no rings, everything spins smoooooooooth.

I was thinking about how I'm going to check the piston/valve clearance with hydraulic lifters. Was wondering if I could take an old lifter, and tack it around the edge where it won't touch the push rod and make it a solid lifter, then put some molding clay on the piston and give it a spin. Can I assume that both of the old and new lifters are exactly the same height when charged? Would this work? Is the gap between the piston and valve something that I should be concerned with checking, since I went with stock CR pistons?


Before anyone asks, the 4 on the #1 piston is not denoting that it is the #4 piston, it is the number 46, I'm guessing that is where the machinist was marking weights for each piston/rod set

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Unread 01-30-2011, 07:01 PM   #95
fuzz401
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Location: Lancaster, Pa.
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try taking a old lifter apart and flip the disc over and see if that makes it a solid lifter
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 01-30-2011, 07:04 PM   #96
fuzz401
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Lancaster, Pa.
Posts: 1,757
stock CR should not be a problem; drop a head on put model clay on the piston crank it over check the clay add head gasket thickness and you should be close
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 01-30-2011, 07:14 PM   #97
TKFireman
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Thanks fuzz, I'll try that, hopefully tomorrow
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Unread 01-31-2011, 11:50 AM   #98
TKFireman
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Apex, North Carolina
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Finished checking gaps for the rod journals. All 8 were between .002" and .0015"

Couldn't make solid lifters, didn't work for me, so I installed 2 new lifters for the #1 cylinder, with push rods and rockers. That showed between .400" and .500" clearance between the valves and pistons. Of course there is a 1.6 ratio on the rocker arm, and the distance the lifter collapsed, so I doubt my measurement was worth much. Like fuzz said though, with stock CR pistons, I doubt it will be an issue anyway.

I don't think there is much left to do besides disassemble, give everything a good cleaning again, and start final assembly. Machinist said I don't need to worry about piston ring gaps with the kit he ordered for me, may check a couple anyway just to make me sleep better.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 12:02 PM   #99
Jp78cj5
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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TK- you have come a long way since your first post. Its looking good. The first time that dude turns over and runs.........man what a feeling. Good luck with the build.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 12:17 PM   #100
TKFireman
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Thanks JP, I'm getting closer everyday, gonna hit a spot soon where I have to bag it, and save up for a while for more parts, but I am looking forward to the day I fire it up.
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Unread 01-31-2011, 01:10 PM   #101
motiv8ya
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It's looking good, I finished my second 401 a little while ago and can't wait until the day I can fire it up! What do you plan on running for exhaust, stock manifolds or headers?
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Unread 01-31-2011, 02:07 PM   #102
TKFireman
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planning on headers, current 304 has stock manifolds so I'll have to do some changing in there, haven't looked at headers very much yet, seems like a long ways down the road before I'm ready for those.
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Unread 02-01-2011, 07:55 PM   #103
TKFireman
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I just noticed there are 2 holes in the front of the block that do not have plugs in them. They are shown in this picture directly above the upper timing gear sprocket. I'm pretty sure there where cup plugs in there when I disassembled, looks like stake marks around the holes. I'm having trouble figuring out their purpose, and the purpose of plugging them, they go from the inside of the timing cover to inside the lifter valley. I don't see where plugging them or not plugging them would make a difference either way, can anyone help me out here?
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Unread 02-01-2011, 09:00 PM   #104
fuzz401
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the only 2 holes that get the screw in plugs are behind the cam gear the 2 top holes are for drain back of the oil and you can se on my block I droped the holes down to the lifter gally floor to help keep it from laying in there



__________________
1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 02-02-2011, 01:36 AM   #105
Johnyakimo1855
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lewisburg, WV
Posts: 232
Wow, glad I found this thread. Have my 401 sitting on a stand and about to order my parts for it. I think I'll follow some of your template you layed out. Mine is getting a edelbrock pro flo II, not sure if I want to dish out the $1600 for the edelbrock aluminum heads though (would like some input here). What kind of coating are u guys using on your oil galley? Thanks for taking the time to document your build.
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401 , bumper build , crankshaft , dana 300 , engine rebuild , harmonic balancer , heads , nv4500 , oil pan , pistons , rebuild , rock slider , shop build
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