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Unread 08-14-2010, 04:19 PM   #46
fuzz401
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yes stay away from the valve seats unless you are having new ones instaled

gudes are ok to do

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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 08-21-2010, 05:03 PM   #47
TKFireman
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After around 10 hours, porting and polishing is done, hopefully I picked up some HP for a very low cost, if nothing else, I improved the short side turn, gasket matched and got rid of a few imperfections.

I found a Taurus Fan locally for $20, going to pick it up Monday I hope, going to try to sell the thermo clutch 7 blade stock fan, make up a little cash. Currently have the stock motorcraft 4350 carb on ebay if anyone is interested
Motorcraft 4350 Spreadbore Carburetor: eBay Motors (item 330463111397 end time Aug-27-10 14:49:03 PDT)

Hopefully I'll be going to the machine shop in the next few weeks, will keep ya'll updated.

Thanks again for the advice.
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Last edited by TKFireman; 08-21-2010 at 05:17 PM..
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Unread 09-09-2010, 12:41 PM   #48
Fatman
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Fireman, consider Loop Road for your machine work, I use them quite a bit, and was very satisfied with the work and price they did on my 350.
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Unread 09-09-2010, 01:28 PM   #49
TKFireman
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Thanks Fatman, I'll check them out
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Unread 10-07-2010, 03:16 PM   #50
motiv8ya
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Did you hear back from the shop about what you need for a kit? I just ordered mine from Falcon Global and for $650 shipped I got a set of .040 over Federal Mogul pistons, Melling MTA-1 RV cam, Clevite Main and Rod bearings, new pushrods, lifters, Brass freeze plugs, felpro full gasket with intake valley pan, cast rings, Melling oil pump, and a timing set. Bsically everything in that kit I linked earlier plus pushrods for cheaper and no tax/shipping. Their customer service is excellent....
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Unread 10-09-2010, 04:11 PM   #51
TKFireman
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The shop estimated around $550 for the master rebuild kit with RV cam. Things haven't gone as planned, taking longer to fund this project than anticipated, but once I get the money together, hopefully around mid to late November, I'll talk to them again, don't think I'm gonna go with a RV cam though after doing some reading, probably gonna go with a little bigger cam in the 262 to 270 range, right now just going to have to wait and see.
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Unread 11-29-2010, 02:07 PM   #52
TKFireman
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Everything dropped off at the machine shop today, will keep ya'll posted
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Unread 11-30-2010, 07:46 AM   #53
TKFireman
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Got a call from the machinist. Crank will by ground 10/10, cylinders bored 30 over. Will need to be line honed, need new rockers and bridges and heads resurfaced. He is going to install freeze plugs and cam bearings. He ordered all parts including a new harmonic balancer for me. Said he could have got a cheaper kit with steel freeze plugs and cheaper rings, but suggested that I upgrade to better stuff. I told him to balance the rotating assembly too.
I told him what I wanted the engine to do and he picked out a cam for me 280/290 advertised duration and 448/472 lift. Said it would be good for low end torgue, and give it a little rumble at idle. I'm still a little in the dark with the cams, so I'll just take his word for it.
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Unread 11-30-2010, 09:38 AM   #54
swatson454
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I just realized that I completely spaced out a couple of your cam questions on another thread. Sorry about that. I'll go find them and see if I can help any.

For now, what's the valve size and where (rpm) do you want peak torque? What about gears and tire size?


Shawn
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Unread 11-30-2010, 10:18 AM   #55
TKFireman
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I was hoping you would throw in your Shawn
Valves are stock - 2.025 intake and 1.680 exhaust, most stock specs can be found here
Engine Specs page. 360 - 401

RPM range for peak torque, somewhere between 1000 to 2000 RPM, I'm not real picky and like I said, still learning, want the torque to come in at a very low RPM and have a good area under the curve. Engine probably won't ever see much over 3000 rpm, as I can run 65 at around 2600 right now. A little rumble at idle wouldn't hurt my feelings either. I don't know the LSA of the cam he picked, just taking the machinist's word for it.

Right now I have 4.10 gears and 35" tires, thinking that I will go down to 33's when I need new tires, 35's will not physically fit in the wheel wells and I don't want to do any trimming
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Unread 11-30-2010, 11:51 AM   #56
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It sounds like you want an engine that'll pull a stump without touching the throttle. Given the valve size, and rpm range you want to peak at, I'd definitely stay away from dual-pattern cams. After checking the line-up from Crane, Lunati, Comp and Isky, the closest thing I can find to what should get the job done is either the Isky 262 SuperCam or the 270 HL http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html

It's a lighter rig and if you end up with 33 inch tires and 4.10 gears, I'd go with the 270. Problem with that is that it'll want some more compression to ward off any low-speed problems. Now is the time to address that, though, and have the shop take the deck down to get the compression up a little. Both cams seem to want 9.5:1 and, short of a custom grind, I think they're as close to 'right' as you can get.

Hopefully that helps.


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Unread 11-30-2010, 12:02 PM   #57
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swatson, not to hijack, but are there any pages you 'personally suggest' for me to look at regarding cams. IE how to pick one and what all the specs REALLY mean? I am planning out my build and I want to try to understand every aspect of it and get my whole list together of what I want before I even get the block/motor.

Ben
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Unread 11-30-2010, 12:26 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
swatson, not to hijack, but are there any pages you 'personally suggest' for me to look at regarding cams. IE how to pick one and what all the specs REALLY mean? I am planning out my build and I want to try to understand every aspect of it and get my whole list together of what I want before I even get the block/motor.

Ben
You're going about it the right way. Here are a couple of pages that may help out. These are very general but still good. Cams are one of those deals where you can easily hear things like "Yes, definitely... most of the time" or "absolutely not, except for when..."

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/ca...ion-angle.aspx

http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/CamSpecTerms.aspx


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Unread 11-30-2010, 12:40 PM   #59
benullman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
You're going about it the right way. Here are a couple of pages that may help out. These are very general but still good. Cams are one of those deals where you can easily hear things like "Yes, definitely... most of the time" or "absolutely not, except for when..."

http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/ca...ion-angle.aspx

Cam Spec Terms - Lunati Power


Shawn
yeah it seems like alot of that is a depends who you ask kind of thing. I will give them a read and see what questions I have. My ultimate goal will be a fuel injected 460, if I could squeeze a compound turbo in there. The 08 F250 has one we drive and it REALLY works nice, picks up at 1200 rpm and can spit out 38psi at 80mph. Its something I think if done right would be really beneficial to a jeep for low end torque and gas mileage.

obviusly im doing ALOT of reading and planning. Im 17, if I can get this done to drive by my 20th Bday I will be on a GREAT schedule lol.

Ben
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Unread 11-30-2010, 02:30 PM   #60
TKFireman
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Shawn, thanks for the suggestions, but the cam has already been ordered with the 280/290, 448/472 specs. Would it be possible to put that in your program and see what numbers I'm looking at and if you can post the curves like you did in the other thread, that would be sweet.
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401 , bumper build , crankshaft , dana 300 , engine rebuild , harmonic balancer , heads , nv4500 , oil pan , pistons , rebuild , rock slider , shop build
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