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Jeep Wrangler Hurricane Flat Fender Flare Kits for 2007-208.8 Swap Kit w/ TRUSS for JeepsPoison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955

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Unread 07-28-2010, 04:59 PM   #31
82JeepCJ7
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marysville, WA
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I went ARP head bolts etc on mine.

Unless your building a high RPM mud runner, the stock rockers are fine. Going to roller rockers requires the heads to be machined to accept studs and guide plates, extra money.

Push rods are cheap, replace them. You can have the old ones checked.

The only thing I see a lot of guys do is run the oiling line back to 7-8 down the valley.

Take lots of pictures of the engine before you disassemble it. All the belts and brackets. It will make putting it back together much easier. Disassemble the motor, put parts in bags or boxes with labels of where they go. I would recommend buying an engine bolt kit. They are usually about $60 and you get all new bolts to put the accessories on the engine. You will need a new gasket set as well as the intake valley pan.

What intake do you plan on running?

Just remember, when you get the block back, keep every thing clean. I painted mine prior to assembly. You may want to keep that in your plans.




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Unread 07-28-2010, 05:44 PM   #32
TKFireman
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I am planning on painting the engine, still debating on color, AMC blue is tempting of course. The CJ is currently disassembled waiting for paint, Brother is painting it, he has lots of body work experience, does good work, and doing it for cost of materials, going with Dark blue pearl metallic from newer Ford F150's. This color Dark Blue Pearl Metallic - 2009 Ford F150 Lariat SuperCrew 4x4 - Camel/Tan Interior | GTcarlot.com - Vehicle Archive #11402870 in a single stage paint. He said easiest way to choose color was drive around car lots until I find a color I like and go with that, that's how color was picked, no chrome anywhere, top and all trim flat black

Most of the accessories and brackets were not on the front of the 401, plan to use the ones from the current 304, which is fine because 401 had an externally regulated alternator, which I'd replace anyway, the power steering pump and york OBA will be fairly simple to swap over and all I have to do is unbolt from 304 and bolt to the 401 when the time comes. I'll still look at the engine bolt kits though, thanks for the advice

I plan on running an Edelbrock performer intake and Holly truck avenger 670 cfm carb, both of which are currently on the still running and driving 304 in my CJ. I will probably rebuild carb during changeover
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Unread 07-28-2010, 06:21 PM   #33
fuzz401
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look at this book a good read
bjsbook
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 07-30-2010, 01:30 PM   #34
TKFireman
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Apex, North Carolina
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I watched the boxwrench video today, that was extremely helpful, thanks for suggesting it, answered many of my questions, and learned about some things I haven't ran into yet.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 05:23 PM   #35
TKFireman
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Finished getting everything apart today. The more I got apart, the more I thought I may get by without boring the cylinders, they were smooth with little to no lip at the top, then I got to cylinder #8, see pictures below. The grooves in the cylinder can be felt while running fingers over them, but don't know if they are considered real bad or not.

All bearings were Clevite and appeared to be std. size. they had what looked like a part number then a dash and nothing after the dash, I think that means they're std. size.


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Unread 07-31-2010, 05:56 PM   #36
fuzz401
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When the machine shop looks at it they can say whether it need bored or just re-honed they will have to measure the cyl. for the bore and the taper of the cyl. wall
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 08-05-2010, 04:41 PM   #37
TKFireman
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Apex, North Carolina
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I looked into having the harmonic damper rebuilt, seems that everyone charges in the neighborhood of $100 to do this, for that price, think I might buy this instead.
Professional Products 80101 - Professional Products PowerForce Harmonic Dampers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I found that the timing cover has been off before, cracked, and welded back, seems to be a working fix, we'll see if it is usable, or may be able to use one from the 304 that I'm replacing. I prefer not to buy a $200+ new one, but will if needed

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Unread 08-05-2010, 04:45 PM   #38
82JeepCJ7
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There is a company here that sells rebuilt balancers for under $100. They have one listed right now for $58 for a 360.

AMC DAMPER 360 REBUILT
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Unread 08-05-2010, 05:40 PM   #39
TKFireman
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that's for a 360, if you go to their website DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers) the 401's are $87.41 + $45 core charge or $10-$15 to ship core to them, winds up being about $100 for a rebuilt one. Unless there is more than one damper dude. The one on summit is $120 or so including shipping for a brand new one, with possibly 30 years of technological improvements
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Unread 08-05-2010, 07:31 PM   #40
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Take the oil pump gears out of that timing cover case.. check the walls for scoring.. this is a big concern because the oil gets in the scores and oil pressure drops when the engine heats up.

You can buy entire timing case covers.. but they are a few hundred bucks. Bulltear has them I think. I still worry about my 360 rebuild since I kept the old cover. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge that I will monitor when I do my first start!
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:00 PM   #41
petey156
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I would buy all the parts at the machine shop, they like the extra business, if you treat them well they will treat you well too. they are a good person to have in your corner when questions arise
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Unread 08-14-2010, 09:05 AM   #42
TKFireman
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I talked to a few machine shops in the area, got some referrals off the local forum, so now its just a matter of gathering the funds.

In the mean time, I have done a lot of reading about improving the air flow through the heads. So after talking myself into it, I made a homemade valve spring compressor which worked great, removed the valves, and inspected the ports. I found a few slags of material in there that can obviously be removed and some areas that look like they could be smoothed out a little. I'm not going to try to remove a lot of material, just smooth it over. Any suggestions would be appreciated or pictures from completed ports from an AMC V8.

I'll probably first try this with my dremel, if that doesn't work, I'll invest in an electric die grinder.

Since the AMC uses a metal intake valley pan with built in gasket, is the gasket port matching needed or done differently than other styles of intakes?



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Last edited by TKFireman; 08-14-2010 at 03:05 PM..
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Unread 08-14-2010, 02:39 PM   #43
TKFireman
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Well, I jumped in with both feet and gave it a shot, there is a good article here about porting, was very helpful.
Porting Cylinder Heads by Engine Masters Magazine
I rounded the edges around the valve guides, got rid of any casting imperfections I saw, and I think I made large improvements on the short side bend, getting rid of a ridge and rounding it out more, let me know what ya'll think. Not done, but think I got a good start, with hours more of work ahead of me



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Unread 08-14-2010, 03:14 PM   #44
fuzz401
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only do the short radis in the bowl area and get your self a 1/4 rod cut a slot in it and wrap sand paper around it to polish were you have ground any ques PM me

and the AMC heads flow better they start around test 3-4 factory and go up from there
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 08-14-2010, 03:22 PM   #45
TKFireman
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Location: Apex, North Carolina
Posts: 1,229
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401 View Post
only do the short radis in the bowl area and get your self a 1/4 rod cut a slot in it and wrap sand paper around it to polish were you have ground any ques PM me
Are you saying that I shouldn't do anything around the valve guide, or are you saying just stay away from the valve seat area? I have a flap wheel for my dremel that polishes decently, put the sand paper on a stick I'm sure will have more control and get into smaller places, I'll give it a try, thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401 View Post
and the AMC heads flow better they start around test 3-4 factory and go up from there
Not sure what you mean by that, still learning here
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401 , bumper build , crankshaft , dana 300 , engine rebuild , harmonic balancer , heads , nv4500 , oil pan , pistons , rebuild , rock slider , shop build
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