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Spartan Locker Promo Running now @ ROCKRIDGE 4WD plus FREEG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ ChTJ Wrangler 4" Rough Country Suspension Lift Kits in

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Unread 07-20-2010, 02:04 PM   #1
TKFireman
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TKFireman's build thread

**EDIT** This thread started as just an engine build thread, on page 26, I decided to go ahead and make it a build thread on the whole jeep.

Let me start by saying that I have never rebuilt a motor before and only know what I have read so any and all comments/advice are welcome. This build is going to take a while, doing little things as I can afford them.

I currently have a 304/T176 with Edelbrock performer intake, Holley TA 670 cfm carb and HEI ignition. Intake, carb and ignition will probably be reused on 401, haven't decided on tranny, thinking of maybe NV4500 and be done with it, but we'll see when we get to that point.

The 401 is from a '77 Cherokee Chief, unknown mileage, PO said it ran, but has been sitting for almost a year

My goal is not to make wild horsepower or torque. My goal is a reliable engine with good torque and HP. I guess everything depends on what the machine shop says when I get to that point.

I did a cylinder leak down test on the engine and found most at 40% leakage, which I think is decent considering the motor is 33 years old, hasn't ran in a year and rings were cold during test, most leakage was past rings, but found a few intake valves leaking

I did break one rocker bridge during disassembly, hope this isn't a huge issue.
All rockers, push rods, lifters have been kept in order that I removed them, not knowing exactly what I was going to reuse. I plan on a new cam, which I know will mean new lifters, but not sure about the rest.

Here are some pictures of what I have so far, let me know If I'm headed in the right direction, will pull the pan when I get a chance to inspect bearings.


Cylinder 1

Cylinder7



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Unread 07-20-2010, 03:19 PM   #2
Comanche_
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Whats the cc # on those heads, they are HUGE.
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Unread 07-20-2010, 03:29 PM   #3
TKFireman
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from what I have read, they are in the 58 cc range. '70-'71 heads were in the 51 cc range. The stock compression ratio is 8.5:1 for '72 and up. How high of a compression ratio can you have and still run 87 octane efficiently?
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Last edited by TKFireman; 07-20-2010 at 03:43 PM..
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Unread 07-20-2010, 03:45 PM   #4
Aaroneous
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A useful bit of reading would be "BJ Builds an AMC" - great info on rebuilding these engines, and it has some tips on upgrades to do to improve reliability and longevity.

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Unread 07-20-2010, 05:06 PM   #5
TKFireman
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I'll look at it, thanks for the tip Aaroneous
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Unread 07-21-2010, 04:47 AM   #6
Lordwrench
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What were the factory power numbers for the particular year 401 you are starting with? I will be following this one,as a motor build is one of my goals!Keep us posted
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Unread 07-21-2010, 07:50 AM   #7
dustbag
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Go to bulltear.com and post this. They will get you going in the right direction. They know how to build amc engines. I have a built 360 and a 401 is my next dream. Good luck!
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Unread 07-21-2010, 04:43 PM   #8
TKFireman
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here are the stock specs for 360's, 390's and 401's. '72+ are all the same for the 401s
Engine Specs page. 360 - 401

Thanks Dustbag, I'll check out Bulltear too.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 01:21 PM   #9
TKFireman
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Got more done today, kinda slow between work and my 4 week old little girl, but getting there. Here are some more pictures with questions









1. Harmonic balancer is not supposed to come apart like this is it? I assume I need a new one.

2. From the pictures, which I know are a little blurry, can you tell anything about the condition of this engine? The bearings I pulled so far look ok, a little scoring on one of them. The large metal chunks in the oil pick up are a little worrisome, any ideas where they came from?

3. The bearing caps were already marked. The main caps are obviously factory markings, are the rod caps factory as well, they look like it, but unsure if someone has been in the engine before or not.

4. How much $$ do I need to save up before taking this to machine shop? Any way to tell at home if its going to need to be bored or not, which of course involves new pistons cost too. Recommend buying rebuild parts from machine shop, or just the machine work, cam bearings and such, and get the rest elsewhere?

5. Any recommendations of "This can be reused" or "Under no circumstance should you reuse this" Keeping in mind that this is a semi budget build but want a reliable engine. For instance, head bolts, reuse or buy new?

6. Cooling - planning for the future - reuse the 7 blade thermo clutch fan that came on the 401, buying a new clutch and a fan shroud, or go for the contour electric fan upgrade? Which one would move more air? I bought a new 3 core radiator about a year ago, so its in good shape.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 01:40 PM   #10
motiv8ya
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When I rebuilt my 401 I needed to bore it out to .040 over. The full rebuild kit including pistons and RV Cam was $500, the total for machine work for the block, crank and heads was just about $600. Just to give you ball park figures. Do yourself a favor and have the machine shop install the cam bearings for you.

If you don't have to bore it out it will be significantly cheaper for a rering kit and some upgrades.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 02:53 PM   #11
TKFireman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motiv8ya View Post
When I rebuilt my 401 I needed to bore it out to .040 over. The full rebuild kit including pistons and RV Cam was $500, the total for machine work for the block, crank and heads was just about $600. Just to give you ball park figures. Do yourself a favor and have the machine shop install the cam bearings for you.

If you don't have to bore it out it will be significantly cheaper for a rering kit and some upgrades.
Where did you get your rebuild kit and cam?
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Unread 07-26-2010, 03:34 PM   #12
motiv8ya
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Falcon Performance - 1-800-756-1114, I found them on Ebay and called them directly and got a better deal + free shipping!
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Unread 07-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #13
Trapshooter
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1. Harmonic balancer is not supposed to come apart like this is it? I assume I need a new one. You'll need a new one

2. From the pictures, which I know are a little blurry, can you tell anything about the condition of this engine? The bearings I pulled so far look ok, a little scoring on one of them. The large metal chunks in the oil pick up are a little worrisome, any ideas where they came from? Are you sure they are metal? Did you use a magnet to pick them up?

3. The bearing caps were already marked. The main caps are obviously factory markings, are the rod caps factory as well, they look like it, but unsure if someone has been in the engine before or not. Hard to say from the pictures

4. How much $$ do I need to save up before taking this to machine shop? Any way to tell at home if its going to need to be bored or not, which of course involves new pistons cost too. Recommend buying rebuild parts from machine shop, or just the machine work, cam bearings and such, and get the rest elsewhere? Expect to pay between $1500 to $1800 for machine work & parts.

5. Any recommendations of "This can be reused" or "Under no circumstance should you reuse this" Keeping in mind that this is a semi budget build but want a reliable engine. For instance, head bolts, reuse or buy new? NEVER reuse head bolts. You'll need new

6. Cooling - planning for the future - reuse the 7 blade thermo clutch fan that came on the 401, buying a new clutch and a fan shroud, or go for the contour electric fan upgrade? Which one would move more air? I bought a new 3 core radiator about a year ago, so its in good shape. If your radiator is in good condition you should be OK but a Ford Contour dual fan will draw considerably more air.
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My 401 build: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/trapshooters-401-build-1338277/[/url]
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Unread 07-26-2010, 05:46 PM   #14
82JeepCJ7
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Harmonic balancers are cheap. Broken cranks are not.
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Unread 07-26-2010, 05:54 PM   #15
TKFireman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapshooter View Post
Are you sure they are metal? Did you use a magnet to pick them up?
Good call Trapshooter, they looked metallic, but magnet test says they are not.

Also found a piece of a broken dip stick tube in the bottom of the pan, so its been replaced before. The dip stick that was in it was loose and pulled out fairly easily, so it will be replaced too

I suppose I need to find a harmonic balancer before I take it to the machine shop in order to have the rotating assembly balanced

Thanks for yall's help, again if there are any other suggestions/do's and don'ts, please don't hold back
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Tags
401 , bumper build , crankshaft , dana 300 , engine rebuild , harmonic balancer , heads , nv4500 , oil pan , pistons , rebuild , rock slider , shop build

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