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post #871 of 953 Old 08-15-2013, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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I agree that the Garage-Pak is way too expensive. I was leaning towards copper, but the more I look at it, the Rapid Air looks like a good deal. Northern Tool has a kit for $199 that has everything I need for three drops, one on each side wall and one on the back wall. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4023_200484023. I think that would be plenty for me, plus I have a coupon for $50 off a $250 purchase, so I could pick up a tool or two or some other accessories for a good deal I think. Also need some 12/3 MC cable to run power to it. Its gonna be in the opposite corner of the shop as the breaker box, so around 80' of wire. That stuff ain't cheap.

I got the braces installed today and everything is ready for a re-inspection. It'll probably be Tuesday before I get a chance to have it inspected. Hopefully it will all go well and I can finally stop trying to make someone else happy with my shop and start making it the way i want it. I also got some light bulbs, shop is lite up nicely.




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post #872 of 953 Old 08-15-2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention, I also exchanged the GFI and so far so good, but only time will tell. If it passes final inspection, I could always replace it with a regular recpetacle.

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post #873 of 953 Old 08-15-2013, 08:10 PM
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Cool, I'm sure its good to be on the down hill side. I think I would favor copper line.

One thing I would suggest is a retractable reel or 2 for the air hose. They really help in keeping things tidy.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #874 of 953 Old 08-15-2013, 08:32 PM
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Tim I used copper in my shop for the air. 3/4" for the main and 1/2" for the drops. You have to use the "L" type, I think and you need to use an alloy based solder for the joints. For me it's been great and copper is so easy to work with. Another nice thing is that you can buy all the joints at a hardware store or something liek Lowes whereas with the proprietory lines you're stuck with their higher priced fitting.
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post #875 of 953 Old 08-15-2013, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Cool, I'm sure its good to be on the down hill side. I think I would favor copper line.

One thing I would suggest is a retractable reel or 2 for the air hose. They really help in keeping things tidy.

Bill
I would like some hose reels, but for now other things are a higher priority. For now I'm looking for the air compressor to be hooked up, running, outside the shop but dry and a place or two to hook up a hose. That's one reason, copper is looking good, easy to add onto any time in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Tim I used copper in my shop for the air. 3/4" for the main and 1/2" for the drops. You have to use the "L" type, I think and you need to use an alloy based solder for the joints. For me it's been great and copper is so easy to work with. Another nice thing is that you can buy all the joints at a hardware store or something like Lowes whereas with the proprietary lines you're stuck with their higher priced fitting.
I did an online search for the type L versus type M. I also looked at them today at the store while I was exchanging the troublesome GFI and the type L has a noticeably thicker wall. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the type M, only that code requires type L in commercial situations. A 10' stick of 3/4" type L is about $25 versus about $18 for type L. That's not a tremendous price difference, but it would add up quickly. I'll do some more reading on the subject.

How far do y'all recommend placing the air filter from the compressor to allow the best water removal from the air? Y'all have one regulator for all outlets, or separate regulators?

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post #876 of 953 Old 08-16-2013, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKFireman

I would like some hose reels, but for now other things are a higher priority. For now I'm looking for the air compressor to be hooked up, running, outside the shop but dry and a place or two to hook up a hose. That's one reason, copper is looking good, easy to add onto any time in the future.

I did an online search for the type L versus type M. I also looked at them today at the store while I was exchanging the troublesome GFI and the type L has a noticeably thicker wall. I haven't heard of anyone having issues with the type M, only that code requires type L in commercial situations. A 10' stick of 3/4" type L is about $25 versus about $18 for type L. That's not a tremendous price difference, but it would add up quickly. I'll do some more reading on the subject.

How far do y'all recommend placing the air filter from the compressor to allow the best water removal from the air? Y'all have one regulator for all outlets, or separate regulators?
I've put quite a bit of copper in houses during remodeling for people. I always used "L" , the reason for this was mainly because its Quite a bit quieter when the water flows thru the pipe. The only place in 25 years of remodeling and repair on copper pipe where ive seen a problem, was at 45 and 90* fittings. ( im guessing this was due to wear from Impurities in the water. ) This shouldn't be a problem with air, with a filter.

If I had your shop, I'd use type "L" for the reason of the length of spans between anchor points on the metal building. It's more stout. And if your like me, you'll end up hanging stuff off the pipe.

Thicker pipe has higher burst strength as well, if you look at this web site it tells temperature vs burst strength.
http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdf

I doubt you'll be going over 150 psi. So either would be fine.

My H2O separator and filter are on the compressor. When sand blasting I put another in line ( it's actually mounted on the blast cabinet)

I also have a filter/oiler mounted on a wall, I use a Dedicated hose with this for air tools. Although I usually just add a couple drops of oil to the tool. The oiler has a seperate supply from the compressor.

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #877 of 953 Old 08-16-2013, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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If Jim and Bill both recomend type L, I'm gonna listen. Again it'll be a while before I get to it, but on the good side, I can plumb in just the filter/regulator and one port for now and add onto later when I can afford it.

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post #878 of 953 Old 08-20-2013, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Final inspection was today. Everything passed and signed off. Now I can really start setting it up the way I want it. There is a lot left to be done, but don't have to worry about inspections anymore

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post #879 of 953 Old 08-20-2013, 08:30 PM
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Cool Tim. Good news!!!


Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #880 of 953 Old 08-23-2013, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Started on the future home of my air compresser. I've never done concrete like this before, but it should do just fine for its intended use. The compresser is 220v but only has 2 hots and a neutral coming out of it. Can I use 12-2 mc for it, since the ground is covered in the cable or do I need 12-3? I was thinking black and white for hots and the green as the nuetral.





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post #881 of 953 Old 08-23-2013, 10:39 AM
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12/3 because you you will have two hots (black and red) one neut (white) and the green or bare ground.

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #882 of 953 Old 08-23-2013, 10:40 AM
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There should be a spot to terminate the ground, maybe a small lug or green screw?

I am in deep
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-did-happen-rebuild-1113470/
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post #883 of 953 Old 08-23-2013, 05:33 PM
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Tim I only use one moisture trap and that's on the hose that I use for my sandblaster and paint gun. I've got a refrigerated dryer for my air supply and have zero moisture. I regulate the pressure coming out of the last air tank. My compressor produces 175 psi then that air goes to the dryer then into a 80 gallon tank and when it comes out of there I drop it to 120 psi. You're gonna love that copper for the lines. I debated before using it on mine and am now glad I did. I have a customer that wanted to update about the same time I did mine and he used the commercial grade lines that cost allot and all of their special fittings. I was impressed but after talking with his foreman he told me the copper was better. Just one fitting was $25.00!

I'm looking at your tank location. Are you enclosing it? On the wire I ran 10-2 with a ground for mine. For things like that I usually go heavy. You can get the protection for ther motor in the breaker. The 12 gauge will likely be fine though, depending on how far it it from the breaker to the compressor. Something else I do when I have a high demand on my compressor is I have this big fan I turn on and blow air on the tank. It really helps keep the tank cooler and that cut's down on the moisture in the air.

Glad the nspection went well and things are moving right along for you. Oh and how's mom and the baby?
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post #884 of 953 Old 08-23-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
TKFireman
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Mom and baby are doing great, thanks for asking Jim. The little guy is already growing fast and and about to eat me out of the house.

I plan to enclose at least two sides of the compressor house. I plan to leave one side open, as long it stays dry for air flow and cooling. The pictures make the posts look like they are not plumb, but they are. It sounds like you have a huge air compressor setup Jim. Mine won't be anything that complicated. I was thinking about coming in, going to the ceiling, over one stud then back down to the regulator/filter, then back up to a distributor line around the ceiling. This will put about 20' between the compressor and filter. Hopefully that will be enough to dry the air decently.

I bought a 250' roll of 12-2 MC today for $50. That's about half price and I couldn't turn it down. I've been reading today that 220 doesn't need a neutral, unless its a 120/220 appliance like a dryer or stove that uses 220, and then 110 for the lights, timers, displays and such. Seems to be a lot of confusion over the xx-2 or xx-3 wire for 220. I don't see the difference for a straight 220 appliance, especially since grounds and neutrals both ultimately wind up in the same place and are often tied together anyway. But I'm not an electrician.

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post #885 of 953 Old 08-31-2013, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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I've been pretty busy the past week, but got some stuff done. I put two coats of oil based paint on the doors and jambs to protect them. I ran some more wire for receptacles on the back wall and air compressor. Temporarily wired the compressor so I could use my framing nailer. Cut the posts off and put the roof on the compressor shed. Its taller than needed, but I made the roof line up with a seam in the siding, then slid a piece of flashing under the siding and on top of the roof to seal it up. Still need to add the side walls and permanently wire and plumb it. The discharge on my compressor is sized for 1/2" pipe, but I guess running 3/4" in the shop would still be a good idea for possible future upgrades.


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