|
|
|
|
#1 | |
|
I heart bacon and pie
|
TJ fender flares on a CJ
I have seen several people mention putting TJ fender flares on CJ's. I have a frankenJeep CJ with a YJ tub on it. So the front fenders are CJ and the rear fenders are YJ. The CJ tub was a rust bucket and I got a galvanized YJ tub pretty cheap a few years ago. I put scout axles on this Jeep and the tires stick out quite a bit. Does anyone know if TJ fender flares will fit either the CJ front or the YJ back?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Go Wolfpack
|
Black Laredo at the bottom of THIS THREAD has TJ flares.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
|
I have a scout rear in mine. I have 12.50s and I'm not sure what the backspacing on the wheels are but it sticks out about an inch with the flares not much to notice.
__________________
1984 CJ7, 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC20, ProComp 4" lift, 1" body, MORE SRS, TJ flares, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Teflon coated wheels, Warn 8274 |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Member
|
TJ Flares, hesitant to cut.
I am no body man, but I am willing to give it a try. I have done lots of google and JF searches, and cant find a how or were to cut. Really just before and after pics.
So, do I cut the lip off the back of the flare, or do I use that lip as where to cut? I can’t get it to lie flat with the lip. But if I cut it and regret it, I have to buy another set of flares. On the rear of the tub, I don’t cut into the inter fender would I? Just trim right up to it? Up front I understand that I do get into the inner finder a bit on the rear of the opening, and rivet/tack weld it back? Any one want to elaborate. Someone please offer me a bit more direction, or hold my hand while I booze up and get ready to cut.
__________________
83 CJ-8 scrambler SOA Locked and Twin-sticked 35's, fenders cut 4.56 bad paint leaks just about everything |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Registered User
|
bushwackers look really slick, too bad it just about takes a loan to get em
__________________
2005 jeep wranger rubicon: stock 1948 Willys CJ-2A: 350 crate V8, muncie 4speed, dana 20, dana 30 front, dana 44 rear, 5.38's, 31x10.50's, boxed frame, new body |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Registered User
|
4wd.com adds a lifetime replacement warranty. no questions asked for $40.
__________________
-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered User
|
Highlights of a TJ frear flair install on a CJ/YJ:
Remove existing flairs . Apply masking tape around the rear wheel opening. Center the flair on the tire, adjust forward and back, up and down for best fit, to the tire and to the body at its ends. Be aware that there is a front and rear to TJ rear flairs; get the right one on the right and the left one on the left. The top should be horizontal and the long leg of the flair should be at the front. Note the large plastic alignment peg on the flair, and cut it off. Mark the flair wheel opening flange on the masking tape. Note that the slanted portion of the fender well sheet metal will interfere with the flair flange adjust the cut line to follow it. Note that the flange at the front of the fender well will interfere. Make a cut at the inner end and bend it downward using duckbills, channel locks, vice grips or a large crescent wrench. Recheck all your marks and the alignment. Cut the sheet metal in along your semicircular cut line remember to flatten out and follow the slanted part of the fender well, or you will have a large hole to patch. I used an angle grinder to do a final trim to size after doing a couple of rough cuts. you will have to trim part of the lip of the fender flair to fit it to the slanted part of the fender well. once everything is aligned and fits well mark the flair attachment hole locations through the flair onto the masking tape and drill them. do a final fit and, deburr and coat exposed metal with rustoleum. After it dries install the flairs. Black silicone caulk can be used to seal the flair to the body. Enjoy!
__________________
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway. Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Registered User
|
![]()
__________________
-Peter- '85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukons, ARB rear locker/Detroit EZ front, 3.5" BDS YJ springs, 35" Trxus M/T's, Alloy Axles '96 ZJ DD 204K 2"BB 31's on Moab's '03 KJ wife's DD -NJJA- -NJJC- |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Web Wheeler
|
No difference in the wheel openings of the tubs CJ vs. YJ so that's not even a concern for you, foggy. I did this mod 11 or 12 years ago and there are pics on my site showing what I cut (also did a TJ fuel filler at the same time...you can cut further back like I did on my other CJ-7 w/out the filler mod)...you don't cut into the inner fenderwell. I personally don't like the look of the front TJ flares on CJ's...fit-up is much better with YJ fenders (I did that mod back then too).
__________________
'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers. '83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff. http://www.jeepskate.net |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Registered User
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Registered User
|
the rear of my CJ5
![]() I just lined up the flares and cut out as much as I could. Don't cut anything on the flares, and just drill holes and thru-bolt them. For some reason the axle looks like its not centered in the wheelwell now, but at full stuff, with the long shackles I have, it stuffs right into the hole like it was made that way. ![]() I didnt do the fronts for 2 reasons. I didnt like the way they looked, and I hope to get flat fenders eventually.
__________________
Default Jeepers Club #10 |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 | |
|
Member
|
Quote:
i cut as much of the fender as i could(evem got into the wheelwell a bit). the flare is not close to flush, it leaves a 1/4 gap. i did not want to cut any more,,, do i trim the flare?
__________________
83 CJ-8 scrambler SOA Locked and Twin-sticked 35's, fenders cut 4.56 bad paint leaks just about everything |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Registered User
|
![]() ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Registered User
|
love the wheels gper where'd you get them??
to keep things technical, it might also benefit some of us to use extended TJ flares. there's 2 people in our 4x4 club selling the 4" variety, and they're quite a bit more common than the CJ extended flares.
__________________
-Blake- |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
This mod took some care with the fitment to get everything correct; basically mark the opening (use inside of the round flair flange for a template (NOT the rectangular flair)). Trim, hold the flair up see what hits and trim away the parts that hit the flair flange until you run up against the inner fender, then trim the flair flange to fit around this. Finally clamp in place then mark and drill the mounting holes. Use care on a CJ-7 some of the mounting holes end up behind a support. If you elect to put a hole in this location you need to use self tapping screws to secure the flair. Enjoy!
__________________
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway. Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road. |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
|
| Suggested Threads |
|