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Unread 01-07-2010, 04:36 PM   #1
skclark
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Tips on dropping fuel tank

I started changing out my monster shackles tonight with 1/2" greasables and found that I will need to drop the tank to get the bolt out.

I would just cut the bolt and put the new one in facing the other way. However, if I do i'm thinking my grasable bolts just become pointless.

Are there any gotchas I should look out for before lowering the tank? I removed the filler hose and see where all the fuel lines go in. I only need to lower it 6" to clear the bolt. If everything is stock will I have enough slack in the fuel lines if I suport it with a floor jack and lower it some? I plan on disconnecting the ground and fuel gauge wire. Then do I just pull the bolts along the front and back lip of the gas tank?

I searched, and based on the lack of "how to remove a tank" I am guessing I don't have anything to worry about.

Found this link, wish the PO did this to my rig... but then again that would have cost me a few extra Gs.

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Unread 01-07-2010, 04:52 PM   #2
chainz
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I did my tank on my 76 and it was pretty much the exact same setup as that link. To be honest with you it was really easy there were no hiccups at all. Wether or not the lines will be long enough I can't remember. The only thing that went wrong was my hardware was rusty and did not like to come out and some of it busted. If the strap bolts break then the tank has to come all the way out so spray those good with PB blaster before you tackle the job.
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Unread 01-07-2010, 05:07 PM   #3
Area.3.Fiftyone
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I wouldn't mess with it if you don't have to. You are going to break bolts, that's a given.

Some guys have removed just the back ones and loosen up the fronts so that it hangs from them. It should drop enough for you to get at them.

Why would putting them in the other way make the greasable bolts useless? If you are worried that you can't get a grease gun on them, buy some 90 degree zerk fittings and change out the straight ones that come with them.
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Unread 01-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #4
OlivergreenCJ7
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If you're going to the trouble to drop the tank you might as well replace the fuel lines if needed, sending unit if that's out, gas tank strap, etc. While it's out see if you can grind the skid down in some spots so it won't be an issue. X2 on the high probability of breaking a bolt. It's all straight forward, but if it hasn't been dropped you'll most likely run into all kinds of stuff you might as well do...
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Unread 01-07-2010, 05:50 PM   #5
cad9176
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Drain the tank before you drop it. It suprised me even with a few gallons when it sloshes around it is hard to control. Make sure the tank is well vented also. Disconnect the filler hose at the tank side port.

It is easier with 2 people to drop the tank.
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Unread 01-07-2010, 06:38 PM   #6
Area.3.Fiftyone
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You may as well replace the tank too while you are at it with a Poly tank if you are going to go through all of that trouble.

That's why I said leave it alone if you can.

You're going to open a whole can o' worms........
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Unread 01-07-2010, 06:47 PM   #7
skclark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMaiden View Post
You may as well replace the tank too while you are at it with a Poly tank if you are going to go through all of that trouble.

That's why I said leave it alone if you can.

You're going to open a whole can o' worms........
I completly understand what you are saying and I wont be opening that can tomorrow! Thanks for the heads up. I may go with the 90 degree fittings. I like the idea of them not sticking out waiting to get hung up on something.
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Unread 01-07-2010, 06:59 PM   #8
CJ7VFR
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You don't have to remove the tank to replace the shackle bolts with greasable ones.

All you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the rear shackle hanger onto the frame, and drop
it down while its still has the shackle attached to it.

Its alot easier to do that than to remove the tank.

And once the hanger is out, and you seperate it from the old shackle on your work bench, you can
clean it up, and bolt it back in place. Then just re-install the shackles with the new greasable shackle
bolts.

And make sure you are installing new bushings. You don't want to re-use the old ones.

Jim

Last edited by CJ7VFR; 01-07-2010 at 09:06 PM..
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Unread 01-08-2010, 05:46 AM   #9
skclark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7VFR View Post
You don't have to remove the tank to replace the shackle bolts with greasable ones.

All you have to do is remove the two bolts that hold the rear shackle hanger onto the frame, and drop
it down while its still has the shackle attached to it.

Its alot easier to do that than to remove the tank.

And once the hanger is out, and you seperate it from the old shackle on your work bench, you can
clean it up, and bolt it back in place. Then just re-install the shackles with the new greasable shackle
bolts.

And make sure you are installing new bushings. You don't want to re-use the old ones.

Jim
Thanks Jim, I had looked at the bolts holding the hanger and thought it may be more dificult than it's worth but if I can get them out I will go that direction. I will work on it today.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 05:56 AM   #10
jeepskate
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Hehehe...those puppies will very likely snap off in the frame on you too...
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Unread 01-08-2010, 06:13 AM   #11
twoleos617
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If you HAVE to drop the tank, get a piece of plywood like i did. turns it into a one man job.
Here's the link to the rest of my pics if they'll help at all...
Fuel Tank pictures by twoleos617 - Photobucket

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Unread 01-08-2010, 06:54 AM   #12
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepskate View Post
Hehehe...those puppies will very likely snap off in the frame on you too...
I was going to say the same thing. More trouble than it's worth IMO.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 07:35 AM   #13
skclark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMaiden View Post
I was going to say the same thing. More trouble than it's worth IMO.
Well, One came out and was pretty bent up and the other one snapped off. You guys are good. Based on the condition of the bolts i'm thinking this may be a blessing in disguise. I'm in the process of drilling it out so I can put some heat on it and try to EZout it. Got a good set of left hand drill bits from my last extraction adventure. I will post a pic of my ezout pleasures later.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 08:10 AM   #14
Area.3.Fiftyone
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I just tried the same thing when I went to remove a trailer hitch and it was a complete waste of time.

Get a 1 1/4" (or something close) hole saw, drill a hole through your rear crossmember for access and put a nut and bolt through it after knocking out the broken bolt and nut plate from the bottom.

Then just cover the rear hole with a plastic or rubber plug if you don't have a mig welder. Use the metal piece that comes out from using the hole saw if you do.

I was able to drill the broken bolts out, but when I went to tap it the nutsert broke loose and just spun in the frame.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 08:14 AM   #15
CJ7VFR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepskate View Post
Hehehe...those puppies will very likely snap off in the frame on you too...
Wow, those must be some rusty bolts!

I removed all four of my shackle hangers on my Jeep with no problems.

I sprayed them with PB Blaster for two days, and they came out with just
a short breaker bar. And I live in New Jersey where we get all kinds of salt
put down on the roads in the winter!

Although, like skclark said, its probably a blessing in disguise. If they were
that bad, they should be replaced. You don't want a shackle hanger coming
loose when your wheelin!

If its not one thing breaking, its another it seems some times.

Jim
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