[CadCaman]

The timing marks are by (2) and they start at -2. You are looking for the sixth mark from the bottom. You must plug off you vacuum advance and check at idle.

[Bubba Ray]

Augoose, mine are the marks of fig. 1.30. I just checked the timing and I had NO change when I remove the hose from base of dist. and plugged it. The notch on the pulley stayed at 0.

[CrazyHorse6]

Originally Posted by Bubba Ray

Augoose, mine are the marks of fig. 1.30. I just checked the timing and I had NO change when I remove the hose from base of dist. and plugged it. The notch on the pulley stayed at 0.

You do indeed have the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and the now-open end of the hose plugged? If you're sure, lets move on to step 2- How is your timing light set up - hooked to the # 1 spark plug correct? How is your idle? Set it as close to 650 rpms as possible ref to Mike's instructions and ensure the engine is nice and warmed up, then shut down the engine. Gently loosen (slightly) the bolt at the base of the distributor and then restart the engine again. Now get ready to rotate the distributor - be sure to rotate it by grasping the base and not just the plastic housing. Rotate to advance the timing until you achieve the 8 degree BTDC that Mike recommended. Once you are there, shut down the engine and then tighten the bolt at the base of the distributor - be careful not to move the distributor. Fire up the engine again and verify your timing. If you are still on 8, unplug your timing light, reconnect your vacuum line and go for a drive. Listen, while driving, for pinging noises - they will be most noticable under acceleration. If you hear pinging, most likely its too advanced - you may want to retard it 1 or 2 degrees and then take it for another drive and test it again.
Good luck!

[JeepHammer]

Now, to the OP,
You are getting some BAD INFORMATION HERE...

There is NO SUCH THING AS '-2' or Minus anything else they can dream up...
And just because there aren't any numbers on the 'After TDC' side of the scale, your engine CAN be that far retarded...
Some guys are just 'Confused' about the basics of Internal Combustion Engines and don't quite know what they are saying...

The Basics Are,
If your engine has the timing scale to the RIGHT of center of the crank,
You have a late model timing cover (and hopefully the correct balancer for it).

If your timing scale is to the LEFT of the crankshaft centerline, you have an EARLY style timing cover, (and hopefully the correct balancer for it.)

Just because there are no numbers on the 'RIGHT' side of the 0° (zero) mark on the timing scale ([b]AFTER Top Dead Center, or ATDC), does NOT mean your engine can't be timed well into 'After' TDC...

If your running balancer mark is on the LEFT side of the 0° (zero) mark on the timing scale, then you are 'BEFORE' Top Dead Center (or BTDC).

You are wanting your running balancer mark to show up in the 'LEFT' or 'BTDC' side of the scale...
(Starting out at about 8° BTDC is a good place to start tuning)
------------------------

First, I'd check your vacuum advance to see if it's working since the timing didn't move when you removed the vacuum line.

Get a section of clean vacuum line, hook it up to the vacuum advance on the distributor, and suck on it or use a hand vacuum pump...

If you turn the pump 'Off' or stick your tongue in the hose, the vacuum canister should hold vacuum.

If it doesn't draw vacuum, or the vacuum leaks, you need a new vacuum canister...
............................

When setting/checking your timing, YOU MUST disconnect your vacuum advance line from the distributor, and plug the line while you are setting the INITIAL TIMING.

If you don't, Vacuum advance will mess with your Initial timing reading.
.............

ADVANCE or BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER,
Will be turning the distributor to the LEFT, or Counter Clock Wise.

If you get things too far advanced, you can take some out by turning the distributor Clock Wise, this will move you towards the 'After' TDC.
..........................

One thing that might make your life easier is to clean the timing marks off with a wire brush and brake cleaner...
(Carb cleaner leaves a oily residue, so use brake cleaner so the paint will stick)

And then use 'White Out' (Typing correction fluid) or white model paint to make the numbers and 'Hash' marks show up, along with the line on the balancer.
This will help you see the marks and balancer in direct sun light...
------------------------

You are looking to start around 8° BEFORE (to the left) TDC and work on the timing from there.

You can keep adding timing a little at a time,
What you are looking for in going too far is,

1. Hard starting, especially when the engine is hot.

2. 'Hesitation', 'Spark Knock', or 'Ping' when you try and slightly accelerate in traffic to keep up.

3. Popping or Backfire when starting out from a stop or when you stomp on the throttle when the engine is at lower RPM's.

If you get spark knock, ping or even hesitation, like the engine isn't pulling when you add just a little throttle at highway speeds,
You need to back the timing off some, you are into detonation territory...
....................
If it gets hard to start, you will need to back the Initial timing down some.
Too much Initial timing will make the engine really hard to start when it's hot.

Too much initial timing can make the engine 'backfire' or 'Pop' through the carb when you try and accelerate also, so be on the lookout for that...
...................
Too much TOTAL ADVANCE will make the engine Spark Knock, Ping or Hesitate on the highway...

You can pull some of that back in by adjusting the total advance, heavier springs in the distributor body, or adjusting the vacuum advance some with a 1/8" Allen wrench...

The Motorcraft distributor is REALLY tuneable, but you should take some time and 'Sneak Up' on the adjustments, don't just dial everything in all at once!

[mcmud]

^^ I know thats right and I couldn't a said it any better.

Keep it in the curve.

[JeepHammer]

I try.

Sometimes I screw up.
Other times people just can't keep up...

It's the '-2' that gets me!
Not '2° AFTER TDC', but '-2' like there is such a thing....

Anyway, tell them what the NEED,
Sell them what they WANT!
You can lead a horse to water, but he'll still crap on his heels!

[mcmud]

It's all in the timing Man.
You know, and the gears and the wires, and the power I guess too. BUT it's the timing Man. Another day.

[Bubba Ray]

I can see the marks fine now and again there was no change when the line was removed and plugged. The engine starts great and does not ping but does not like full throttle. I will take a shot this morning at checking the vac hose.

[mcmud]

What are you using as a vacuum signal source to the distributer?
Didn't notice the type of carb you use.
Do you have a tach. or a vacuum test kit?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Bubba Ray

I can see the marks fine now and again there was no change when the line was removed and plugged. The engine starts great and does not ping but does not like full throttle. I will take a shot this morning at checking the vac hose.

Did you get it to 8 deg?

Mine also has no change when I unplug the vacuum line because I use a ported vacuum source on it. This comes from the valve cover side of the stock carb about half way up. It only sucks when I get on the throttle.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Bubba Ray

I can see the marks fine now and again there was no change when the line was removed and plugged. The engine starts great and does not ping but does not like full throttle. I will take a shot this morning at checking the vac hose.

You are at a stand still until you check to see if the vacuum advanve is working...

Clean hose, flip the distributor cap, and look at the vacuum advance arm/trigger plate as you draw vacuum on the Distributor Vacuum Advance Canister...

If things move, and you can hold a vacuum on the line without it leaking down, then the vacuum advance is 'OK'.
-----------------------

Often times, when hooked up to the proper 'SPARK PORTED VACUUM SOURCE' the vacuum advance won't move at idle, especially if you have a low idle (like around 550 to 650 RPM) so you can't really use that as an indicator...

[Bubba Ray]

[IMG][/IMG]

The line in the middle of the carb is the vac advance hose. With engine running and rpm's raised the arm at the base of the dist. moves.

P.S. What carb is this?

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by Bubba Ray

[IMG][/IMG]

The line in the middle of the carb is the vac advance hose. With engine running and rpm's raised the arm at the base of the dist. moves.

P.S. What carb is this?

I can't really see the photo. (OK, got a bead on it) That looks like the BBD.

Your timing advance sounds like it is working properly.

[mcmud]

I too had to take notice, and then the looking glass and it appears to be the BGUM BBD a real good one as compared to the After Goof Up Model.

Hows the timing light suiting to you, it will be a terrific asset to have at arms length for the procedures necessary for setting, and using the total timing advance available to your engine.
Multi steps with one goal.

The correct curve for your purpose!

[Bubba Ray]

Sorry about the small picture. Just learning how to post. If the vac advance is working okay then how do I set the timing? With hose plugged or attached? Still 8 degrees?