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11-28-2011, 09:34 PM
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#31
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346
That is called the rack and sector, that is the part that wears out of the CJ to cause all the dash buttons to start them with. Should have drove down I-10 a ways I would have given you an S-10 column in better shape. I think I also have some loose parts for a column if you find a hard part that needs replacing. I have all the proper tools for that if you get stuck, although you have it apart now, the lock plate removal was priceless. Keep the column housing good for cracks on the 4 bolts they are talking about I have seen the metal brake were they hook in.
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I may just take you up on that S-10 offer if I can't find the parts I need for this column. Thanks for offering. I went back in and edited my key/ignition switch screw up!! Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346
That is the ignition switch the key and tumbler is up top. Yes it just slides back and forth. The screws they have been talking about hold that outer column which is still attached to the inner tube. Might be the torx bit you were talking about earlier, it's been awhile so I don't remember what the heads are like.
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Any reason to ditch the ignition switch since it is so rusty? Probably a dumb question, but I don't have any spare change laying around. Regrading the four bolts... there are no bolts holding the column housing onto the shaft. It is held in place by a role-pin inside, and I am going to leave it!! I have too many parts as it is, and I'm worried about that!
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11-28-2011, 10:27 PM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Quincy, Florida
Posts: 2,625
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Well the switch could be used as long as it works properly, I've done worse in a bind on Sunday afternoon before Advanced and then left it for years.
Let me if you need the column or parts for yours.
Are sure about the roll pin? I cant recall ever seeing one with a roll pin, got any pictures of that?
It's past my bed time so I'll catch up tomorrow
__________________
Careful your character's showing
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11-29-2011, 05:49 AM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Gautier, Mississippi
Posts: 145
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I think last week there was a thread where a guy was doing the same thing and somebody posted a link to a bearing kit on ebay. sorry I don't know how to post links on this phone.
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11-29-2011, 07:17 AM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Gautier, Mississippi
Posts: 145
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Try this
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11-29-2011, 07:35 AM
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#35
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 83
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The bearing kit from Gm came with the rack and a couple of other parts.The kit will only have one race, the other is reused on shaft. They didn't even ask the year when I took bearings in, guy took one look, walk in back came out with parts. The rack I've seen at Autozone. GM made those column, from late 60's- mid 80's I think.
__________________
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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11-29-2011, 07:42 AM
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#36
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Monroe, CT
Posts: 430
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this is a great thread, I am just having to replace that actuator that nobody had a clear name for, just waiting on the parts, it had broken, so no ignition, have been hot wiring it.
thanks and good luck with re-assembly
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11-29-2011, 04:59 PM
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#37
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepFish1979
I think last week there was a thread where a guy was doing the same thing and somebody posted a link to a bearing kit on ebay. sorry I don't know how to post links on this phone.
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Thanks Fish, for the link. I remember looking at that thread now!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Menako
The bearing kit from Gm came with the rack and a couple of other parts.The kit will only have one race, the other is reused on shaft. They didn't even ask the year when I took bearings in, guy took one look, walk in back came out with parts. The rack I've seen at Autozone. GM made those column, from late 60's- mid 80's I think.
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Uh-oh... hope I still have one to reuse!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by my73CJ
this is a great thread, I am just having to replace that actuator that nobody had a clear name for, just waiting on the parts, it had broken, so no ignition, have been hot wiring it.
thanks and good luck with re-assembly
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Thanks! Learning as I go. More to come...
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11-29-2011, 05:14 PM
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#38
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,314
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I had such a good day yesterday working on that column that all I could think about last night was getting back to it. That's kind of sick! But I really had fun! While doing research last night I came across a guy that specializes in GM Tilt columns. He is a regular seller on EBay. I sent him an e-mail, and he responded this morning. He has communicated with me a couple of times, and he has been very kind. So I am plugging 'gmtilt' on EBay. After looking at his website anyone who is considering a tilt wheel might give him a look. His work looks outstanding, and his listed prices are far better than any of the "name brands" that we hear so much about.
Okay... on with MY rebuild. I wire-wheeled the column/shaft housings and disassembled the swivel joint. The swivel joint was really easy, and if you are going to work on yours then don't sweat it! I will use Marine Clean, Metal Ready, then POR on the housings. I'll paint the aluminum with whatever color we choose. Here's the pics...
Wire-wheeled...
Mopar... this is the inside of the upper housing, or shroud... whatever you call it! I said it was held in place by a roll-pin, but I was wrong. However, I don't see any bolts. Are we talking about the same thing?
These pics show the swivel joint in different stages of assembly...
Turned over to see inside
The wire spring is a tensioner, and it keeps the swivel joint tight!
Assembled...
This is how you take your swivel joint apart...
Bend at 90*
Pull apart
Grab the swivel
Rotate 90*
Pull apart
Once the swivel is out you have what is in the above pics. Take it apart, clean it up, regrease everything, and put it back.
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11-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 83
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The race for the one bearing is still on shalf, between your thumb and fore finger in pictures.
The 4-bolts with the Torx heads you removed already. You will want to use loc-tight on those 4- bolts when you reassemble. Cleaned up better than I would have guess! Good job!!
__________________
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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11-29-2011, 07:55 PM
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#40
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Menako
The race for the one bearing is still on shalf, between your thumb and fore finger in pictures.
The 4-bolts with the Torx heads you removed already. You will want to use loc-tight on those 4- bolts when you reassemble. Cleaned up better than I would have guess! Good job!!
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You're saying the race is actually the machined surface of the shaft? I did pull a race out of that top bearing. It is in the pic with the ruined bearing cup. It was sitting on top of the bearings. It's in the first batch of pics.
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11-29-2011, 08:26 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 83
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Mine came out on floor board, when I got the kit it only came with one race two bearing. Was just a heads up, because I was looking everywhere but on the shalf for the race!
__________________
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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11-29-2011, 09:48 PM
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#42
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Menako
Mine came out on floor board, when I got the kit it only came with one race two bearing. Was just a heads up, because I was looking everywhere but on the shalf for the race!
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Thanks, Menako... I'll have another look. It does look like a race is on there in the picture, but I would swear it's not!! I have to go back and look. I hope you are right! Was checking all over for the upper and lower bearings. Found some on EBay for $40, but the description does not say a race is included.
I really think this column is missing some parts, but being my first column, I'm not sure what is missing. All the diagrams I see online show a lockplate, with notches along the outside edge. My column doesn't have that. It was also missing the lock cylinder. Bill (lucdog) sent me one, but I believe the column is missing the parts to lock it in place. I also don't see a cancelling cam/horn button (I think that is what is left of it- the gray piece I remove in the first batch of pics). Can anyone confirm that?
Thanks
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11-30-2011, 06:10 AM
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#43
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Gautier, Mississippi
Posts: 145
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Lock plate should have been right behind the steering wheel held on by spring tension and a little wire c clip. When the lock tumbler goes into the lock position a spring loaded pin is released to engage the lock plate, that pin can get stuck down and not pop up in lock position. Cancel cam is also horn contact, that one in your first batch of pictures looks like a well worn one. It should have been right behind the lockplate and should have a wire way that pokes through the hole closest to the center of the lockplate. Look for it in the help section at the auto store.
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11-30-2011, 06:25 AM
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#44
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Gautier, Mississippi
Posts: 145
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And if you don't mind what was the username of the guy on eBay? I need a better looking housing for my column.
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11-30-2011, 09:25 AM
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#45
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 83
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I saw the Ebay bearings. The GM kit comes with the rack, black plastic gear that pushes the rack and spring. Not pushing GM, because you know you are going to pay double, just got tired of looking. Did have one picture that I took that may help.
__________________
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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