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Unread 03-11-2009, 04:20 PM   #1
CJman77
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Those of you that have rebuilt a CJ Dana 30 please assist me!

Maybe I missed something in dissasembly, I need some help. I can't seem to find the right looking inner axle seal. In this pic it shows what I got from napa and what I pulled out of the axle.



Here is where it came from just so I don't confuse anyone:




Here is what the 4wd.com one looks like:

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.as...=0&partID=6088

And here is the quadratec one:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52420_12.htm

The quadratec one looks like the napa one in my photo. I just don't know I need some replacement ones so I can get this thing back together. Ideas?

Where does the one for NAPA go? It says its for this axle? Does it go down the tube? Or did they screw up and its for the newer dana 30's? I just didn't pull anything out that looked like it, so i don't know.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Brian

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Unread 03-11-2009, 05:30 PM   #2
foggybottombob
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I think they are all the same. The flutes on the ones you bought are just to make it easier to get the axle shaft into the seal when you push the shaft in. They all go in from inside the pumpkin. As long as the diameter of the seal fits the seat in the pumpkin and the rubber part is the same diameter as the axle where it goes through the seal they will work.

For the ones you have, the flat side goes to the pumpkin side and it sits against the carrier bearings.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 06:11 PM   #3
ctm
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You may have left the original flute in the axle....I just did mine, I already forget if the originals had the flutes. bad memory I guess!
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Unread 03-11-2009, 08:32 PM   #4
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
I think they are all the same. The flutes on the ones you bought are just to make it easier to get the axle shaft into the seal when you push the shaft in. They all go in from inside the pumpkin. As long as the diameter of the seal fits the seat in the pumpkin and the rubber part is the same diameter as the axle where it goes through the seal they will work.

For the ones you have, the flat side goes to the pumpkin side and it sits against the carrier bearings.
I tried to get them in there and since the flute is metal they will not go in.
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Unread 03-11-2009, 09:06 PM   #5
6leafclover
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I got a set from 4WDH but I havent put them in yet so Im interested to see what happens with yours
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Unread 03-11-2009, 09:07 PM   #6
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6leafclover View Post
I got a set from 4WDH but I havent put them in yet so Im interested to see what happens with yours
And yours have the flutes and look like mine?
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Unread 03-11-2009, 11:07 PM   #7
foggybottombob
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What is that rusty looking piece in the picture at the inside end of the axle tube?
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Unread 03-11-2009, 11:36 PM   #8
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
What is that rusty looking piece in the picture at the inside end of the axle tube?
Its the same old seal thats in the picture above it. I just kinda put it back in there to show you guys where it came from. The spring inside the oil seal was rusted out and broken into lots of little pieces.

This axle is starting to be a pain in the a**! lol
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Unread 03-12-2009, 12:20 AM   #9
JeepHammer
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Upper left is the one to use.
'Funnel' shape metal piece goes into the axle tube side.

Some early axles (thicker tube walls) you will have to trim the 'Funnel' flange some to get it to seat in the tube properly, but if you don't overheat the rubber when grinding on it, it's not an issue at all.

You want that metal 'Funnel' to be as tight to the axle tube wall as you can get it and still fit in there. You usually don't have to take much off, if any!
I've done several in the 'Field' with a hand file in the past few years, so it usually doesn't take much at all.

The metal 'Funnel' is an 'Upgrade' to the seal design,
The intention is to guide the axle through the seal,
Instead of the axle chewing on, and ripping into, the seal surface.

You 'CAN' use the same old oil seal type the factory used, but they are INFERIOR to the newer 'Funnel' design.
------------------------------

REMEMBER TO USE EMERY CLOTH AND 'SPRUCE UP' THE SEAL SURFACE ON THE AXLE!
Go AROUND the axle so the sanding lines work with the seal, instead of cutting into it.
Old seals mean rust and wear marks on the axle, and you should try and remove rust/edges before putting the axles back in on new seals.

REMEMBER TO LUBE THE RUBBER LIP AND AXLE END BEFORE YOU PUT THINGS TOGETHER!
Don't want to start out on dry seals!
A little wheel bearing grease or gear lube is fine, and if you don't get carried away, even engine oil will work to lube the seal lip/axle end-seal surface.
------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
What is that rusty looking piece in the picture at the inside end of the axle tube?
That's what's LEFT of the orignal oil seal!

Yup, that seal there is all that stands between mud, water, grit and any other contaminant that can enter the axle tubes and your VERY EXPENSIVE differential and differential gear set (Ring & Pinion)....

That Warped, Rusty, Worn Out and Torn mess is the reason why I say when you have the axles out,
Drop the carrier (Carrier & Ring Gear) and change the seals!

That's not even as bad as I've seen! That one still has PART of the sealing lip left on it!
I'm sure it wasn't contacting anything, but at least it's still there!
I've seen them with virtually ALL the rubber missing!

Last edited by JeepHammer; 03-12-2009 at 12:33 AM..
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Unread 03-12-2009, 08:21 AM   #10
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Upper left is the one to use.
'Funnel' shape metal piece goes into the axle tube side.

Some early axles (thicker tube walls) you will have to trim the 'Funnel' flange some to get it to seat in the tube properly, but if you don't overheat the rubber when grinding on it, it's not an issue at all.

You want that metal 'Funnel' to be as tight to the axle tube wall as you can get it and still fit in there. You usually don't have to take much off, if any!
I've done several in the 'Field' with a hand file in the past few years, so it usually doesn't take much at all.

The metal 'Funnel' is an 'Upgrade' to the seal design,
The intention is to guide the axle through the seal,
Instead of the axle chewing on, and ripping into, the seal surface.

You 'CAN' use the same old oil seal type the factory used, but they are INFERIOR to the newer 'Funnel' design.
------------------------------

REMEMBER TO USE EMERY CLOTH AND 'SPRUCE UP' THE SEAL SURFACE ON THE AXLE!
Go AROUND the axle so the sanding lines work with the seal, instead of cutting into it.
Old seals mean rust and wear marks on the axle, and you should try and remove rust/edges before putting the axles back in on new seals.

REMEMBER TO LUBE THE RUBBER LIP AND AXLE END BEFORE YOU PUT THINGS TOGETHER!
Don't want to start out on dry seals!
A little wheel bearing grease or gear lube is fine, and if you don't get carried away, even engine oil will work to lube the seal lip/axle end-seal surface.
------------------------------



That's what's LEFT of the orignal oil seal!

Yup, that seal there is all that stands between mud, water, grit and any other contaminant that can enter the axle tubes and your VERY EXPENSIVE differential and differential gear set (Ring & Pinion)....

That Warped, Rusty, Worn Out and Torn mess is the reason why I say when you have the axles out,
Drop the carrier (Carrier & Ring Gear) and change the seals!

That's not even as bad as I've seen! That one still has PART of the sealing lip left on it!
I'm sure it wasn't contacting anything, but at least it's still there!
I've seen them with virtually ALL the rubber missing!
Ok so the metal flange is a "guide". But these are still intended to be inner axle seals? Theyare the new version of what I have in my pic?
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Unread 03-12-2009, 10:08 AM   #11
Redmanchew
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I have got them both ways before and i will tell you one thing. Use the one with the funnell or flange. I did not the first time and when i took apart my front end to do ball joints and went to slide the axle back in it poped the inner seal out against the carrier bearing. That turned a long job of doing ball joints into a longer job of having to tear down the carrier to replace the seal.
The flange will "help" with guiding the axle into the diff. Operative word, "Help".
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 03-25-2009, 10:48 PM   #12
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmanchew View Post
I have got them both ways before and i will tell you one thing. Use the one with the funnell or flange. I did not the first time and when i took apart my front end to do ball joints and went to slide the axle back in it poped the inner seal out against the carrier bearing. That turned a long job of doing ball joints into a longer job of having to tear down the carrier to replace the seal.
The flange will "help" with guiding the axle into the diff. Operative word, "Help".
Okay so a update. I took the ones back because there was no way they would fit in the area where they were removed.

I can't find the right part anywhere and its killing me! I am waiting to put this back together and I can't because I can't find this damn part!

I am beyond frustrated. Anyone know where I can just get stock OEM ones like I pulled out.

Thanks in advance!

Brian
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Unread 03-25-2009, 10:58 PM   #13
foggybottombob
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I just bought inner axle seals for an 89 waggy front D44 at NAPA. They listed two seals and the ones I needed were listed as being for 86. There are two things that matter. You can't depend on NAPA books being exactly correct.
1) the large diameter needs to fit your seal seat in your housing.
2) the rubber seal has to fit the axle

If there is something wrong with the size of the part sticking out into the tube then take an angle grinder and cut off whatever does not fit if the two dimensions above work.
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Unread 03-26-2009, 07:19 AM   #14
Redmanchew
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i see what you mean now.... I went out to a bunch of sites and they all "show" the seal without the flange on it. Maybe give them a call... I know i ordered both my sets through 4wd and one came with it and one without. Dont remember what brand they were but they were different.

collins bros. has them listed and they are usually as close to OEM as anyone else. The part number is 8121781. Try calling them and see if they can describe what they have.
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1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

Support your local MS foundation. You don't know how much this disease sucks until it affects someone you love.

http://main.nationalmssociety.org/si...al&fr_id=18331

Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 03-26-2009, 08:06 AM   #15
RetiredSERE
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Just rebuilt my Dana 30, and know the pains of getting the proper parts. Yes use the Flange style, and check the costs. Napa has been my bain on this axle rebuild. Wrong parts from the manufacture, wrong seals from Napa, ect. Not only that, NAPA and CarQuest wanted $15-$23 a piece for them, but was able to get them from Quadratec for about $4 a piece (bought out the last 4 they had) as I had already destroyed one on install.

Also, go figure that I already had a set that I had ordered earlier. Must be getting old.

And another trick I learned on installing them. Try not to beat on them with a hammer, instead I purchased some 7/16 all thread, washers, nuts and used one of my large sockets to make a pull (opposite of a press). Made life alot easier.

Dave
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