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Unread 06-19-2013, 07:33 PM   #1
2Xtreme
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Which of these gaskets do I use for intake/ header?

I have an Offenhauser intake and Hedman header installed on my 258 which I need to remove and reinstall to seal up some vacuum leaks.

I ordered a replacement gasket from Hedman, which isn't much to write home about - some kind of pressed cardboard, that seals the intake and exhaust ports.

Hedman


Just in case, I also ordered a gasket kit from FelPro.
The kit had a similar designed gasket, but laminated with a metal facing.
It also had a separate, rubber gasket to seal the intake ports. As well as a couple others

Felpro


So my question is, what gasket(s) do I use??
Sealant/ no sealant? If so which sealant? And where?

Thanks in advance!

2X

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Unread 06-20-2013, 03:25 AM   #2
John Strenk
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I used both on mine but I don't have a header.

I probably just could of used the intake gasket with the stock exhaust manifold but since you have headers I would use both.

I just use HD axle grease, makes cleaning them off easier later but I'm guessing the header flanges may not be as flat as a machined exhaust manifold.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:24 AM   #3
gmakra
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I would go with Felpro since I never had a problem with them.
The cardboard style I have had problems with since they are thinner and I have had them burn through with the heat.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:42 AM   #4
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I am definitely going to go with the Fel-Pro laminated gasket.
But what about the rubber intake gasket?

I think I have to call their tech Support regarding installation.
One of Fel-Pro's technical documents states:

"....one side is a fiber material and the other side is steel.
Just remember to install the steel side toward the manifold and the fiber side toward the engine block. This allows the exhaust manifold to slide along the steel surface during expansion and contraction without damaging the gasket."

There is no mention of sealant, which I think would eliminate this 'movement'.
I would think a rubber gasket between the intake manifold and exhaust gasket would hinder any 'movement' as well.

Thoughts?
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:49 AM   #5
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The intent of the seperate intake gasket is so the clamping surfaces are flat across. In some cases like John mentioned without using the intake gasket its spaced closer to the head then the exhaust where the cupped washers clamp against the manifolds. In which case the intake never gets the same clamping torque the exhaust gets.

You may need to try mounting with and without it to see how it works for you and your combination of manifolds.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:54 AM   #6
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I think the Fel-pro gaskets are designed to be installed dry, but I don't think a little copper spray would hurt, just to help keep everything in place while you bolt it up.

Getterdone.....

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Unread 06-20-2013, 05:48 PM   #7
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I think I am going to go with the Fel-Prolaminated gasket AND the blue rubber intake gasket.

One question though...
I was never happy with the workmanship of the Hedman header.

What do you guys think about this?
Should I grind it down?



Thanks in advance

2X
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Unread 06-21-2013, 03:04 AM   #8
John Strenk
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Eh, it might help sealing with the raised lip like that as long as it's torqued properly.

How would you guarantee your grinding will make it flat??
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Unread 06-21-2013, 04:38 AM   #9
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Fel-Pro's tech support claims their gasket is used to accommodate lack flatness found when using headers (to a point).

As you know there was no gasket from the factory as all surfaces were machined flat.

So U was thinking 'relatively' flat might be worth a try.

But I see your point with the extra material helping with clamping pressure....
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:30 AM   #10
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I have the same header on the same engine, and I used the same Fel-Pro gasket set. No sealant. Clamp your headers in a vice. Use a long metal file and file across two of the header inlets at a time. Go slow and keep the file flat. I don't know what you call it, but there is a HUGE file board made to cover all of the inlets at once. Don't know if you can get your hands on one of those. My neighbor has one, so I got lucky. I have no issues with exhaust leaks.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:43 AM   #11
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To be honest, intake leaks are my biggest problem.

When I took them off, both had black RTV on them. I don't know if that helped or hindered anything.

I also noticed one of the mounting locations on the bottom of the Offenhouser, directly under the carb looked pretty boogered up. Might have to build that up with something for better clamping.

Maybe not, though. The blue gasket may help with that.

Just thinking out loud, here...
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:53 AM   #12
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It wouldn't hurt to file across the intake runners as well. Same process. You will be able to see the uneven surfaces pretty quickly by the shiny metal. You won't have to do near as much on the aluminum. Just go slow and be deliberate, and you HAVE to go across two or more runners at a time to keep it even between the runners.

Personally, I don't like sealants on the manifold sealing surfaces. Flat mating surfaces, a good gasket, and proper torquing should take care of any issues. My aftermarket Clifford intake does not seal the same as my stock intake. It is much more difficult to eliminate vacuum leaks. A primary cause is that the Belville washers do not sit flat on the runner ears.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 06:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
...A primary cause is that the Belville washers do not sit flat on the runner ears.
Same with the Offy. So much so that I had to invert a couple of them to better catch the contact points....
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Unread 06-21-2013, 07:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Same with the Offy. So much so that I had to invert a couple of them to better catch the contact points....
An option there is to carefully grind down the ears so they are even with the exhaust, and you might have to flatten one side of the washer. I was a little concerned about doing that. I'm no engineer, but it is my understanding that a belville washer is designed as a cup to enhance the torque. Turning it over will cause you to lose any gains in a belville washer. I tried using the proper diameter hardened, thickened washers in place of the belvilles, but, ironically, they started to snap in half. So I reinstalled my factory intake. Good to go.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 07:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
An option there is to carefully grind down the ears so they are even with the exhaust, and you might have to flatten one side of the washer. I was a little concerned about doing that. I'm no engineer, but it is my understanding that a belville washer is designed as a cup to enhance the torque. Turning it over will cause you to lose any gains in a belville washer. I tried using the proper diameter hardened, thickened washers in place of the belvilles, but, ironically, they started to snap in half. So I reinstalled my factory intake. Good to go.
Good point!

I have to admit, that when I first started modifications on the jeep i was a bit naive and assumed thing would just bolt on.

Needless to say, I have since learned that is not the case.
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