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Old 01-30-2008, 02:53 AM   #1
Fjguercio
Web Wheeler
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 2,836
Ford E Coil Installation, Location, and Bracket

I have a few good hints for those that want to install / hang this Ford E Coil on the JEEP 258 or 232. I used a 5x5" approx .025 thick sheet metal as a sub bracket. Drill 4 or 5 holes to match the E coil bracket holes. Mount E coil low & centered on this sheet metal sub plate. I used 3/16 x1/4" steel rivets to join the brakets together. This assembly will hang from the Jeep I6, 258, stock coil mount holes in the block. I drilled two 3/8" holes one at 2 oclock on the dial from the top/right corner of E coil connector. Drill the 3/8" hole so the head of the stock coil bolt clears the connector insertion path. The second 3/8 hole will be 2.5" to the left of the first hole. This is a tight fit and recommend you hand fit the adapter plate to block holes, elongate 3/8" holes if necessary. Paint both brackets with engine paint and let dry. The 2 BOLTS from the stock coil will hold new coil in place.

If you take the E Coil connector it makes electrical hook up easier. I crimped ring terminals to the E coil flying leads and inserted them into the Faston Connectors. This connects the E Coil to Jeep without damage to the Jeep Harness Coil Connections. In addition if on trail ride and Ford E Coil Fails you can reinstall Jeep Coil with nothing more that a knife to cut the heatshrink off and a wrench to remove coil bracket. Solder two Ring Terminal the same width as JEEP OIL Filled Coil connection tab. One for the green gound and one for the red hot on the used connector. The ring terminals will slide into the Jeep Stock Wire Faston Connectors that mate to the Jeep Stock Coil Tabs.

The Jeep Connectors can be extracted from the plastic c clip mounted on the stock coil, use a small screwdriver carefully. I also put a small amount of dielectric grease on the female faston/ring terminal combination and covered with heat shrink. Use the E Coil connector and flying leads as an extention of the Jeep Coil harnes... DO NOT REMOVE THE JEEP CONNECTORS. The E Coil Connector also has a second Red wire for the Capacitor with BOX type terminal. I put heat shrink over this Box Terminal and doubled over. I have a TAC installed on my Jeep Coil Harness +. It would also be possible to add TAC to the second Red wire in the E Coil Connector. I saved this wire in case the CAPACITOR was need for radio noise reduction. Cover the harness addition with split harness tubing and a tie wrap or two.

When using this stock coil location, the coil plug wire will be the correct length. This Ford E Coil assembly will just clear the oil dipstick and dissy. No additional holes are needed to mount this upgrade

Keep the original Jeep Coil and C clip as spare and always good to keep the OEM stuff. You will also need to plan ahead to have a coil plug wire that will mate to the old coil and new style cap.

I tried to keep the JEEP HARNESS whole using the ring terminals to mate to the stock .250" faston connectors from coil. The BEST way to do this would to be solder the E Coil wire/terminal combination to jeep harness. I do have a slight engine roll and it could be this connection. The alternative would be cut the coil terminals off with some wire(can be spliced back in) and solder in the flying leads from the E Coil connector. Some JEEPFORUM guys will like the ring/faston combination to keep the Jeep Original, others for reliability may want to solder in.

AFTER Changing the Coil, Cap, Rotar, Plug Wires from the BRAND NEW stock style Cap, Rotar, Plug Wires and the stock coil mileage was improved 2.3 mpg. I have a new rebuilt engine and got 15.2mpg last wk and after this change mileage inproved to 17.5 mpg. I was traveling at 70 mph and both times had a hour stop or more so engine cooled off. Temps in single digits. I did NOT adjust the timing or carb after this change. I have a slight engine roll and does not start as well. Next warm spell will try to get tuned in.







Last edited by Fjguercio; 05-21-2008 at 12:51 PM..
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:41 PM   #2
GPER
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Nice, I'll keep this in mind. I'm using the Accel Super Stock coil and it is just too bulky.
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Old 01-30-2008, 10:45 PM   #3
CompGuru
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I attached mine to the battery tray. Just 4 holes and 4 long screws and nuts and it is on there perfectly. Does anyone see anything wrong with this? I haven't had any problems (yet). I did this because the plug wire wouldn't reach to the fender.
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:59 PM   #4
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Location: Burnsville, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGuru
I attached mine to the battery tray. Just 4 holes and 4 long screws and nuts and it is on there perfectly. Does anyone see anything wrong with this? I haven't had any problems (yet). I did this because the plug wire wouldn't reach to the fender.
Dear CompGuru,

May work for you. The battery has acid fumes that condense on metal surfaces that are close. The metals are cooler than the fumes. That is why our battery terminals are always corroded and failing. This is also why the battery tray and fire wall in that area always look the worst in the engine bay.

The Ford E Coil has two contacts on top, the spark plug connection, and inside there are very small wires with thin formvar insulation wound to make a transformer. Salts, Chlorine, and acids should always be avoided with electrical items.

May want to try what I did above.

Regards,
FRED
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Old 01-31-2008, 02:37 AM   #5
CompGuru
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Thanks for the info! I didn't really understand the electrical stuff but the connector seems easy enough to make. Thanks again. Dustin.
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1983 Jeep CJ7 White

Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come...

"There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance."

"Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic."
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:45 PM   #6
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CompGuru
Thanks for the info! I didn't really understand the electrical stuff but the connector seems easy enough to make. Thanks again.

Dustin,
If you do not have the E Coil connector put a .250 or .187 faston terminal. The faston should slide right over the tabs on the E Coil. I would also slide heat shrink over the faston to keep it from getting shorted out. Support the wire in the area with a tie wrap, since you will not have a connector lock.

Regards,
Fred
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:54 PM   #7
tuffie226
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I have a question about wiring the coil. I am in the middle of doing the Team Rush/Nutter all at once, and I was wondering about how to wire the coil. Is it as easy as cutting the wires from the old coil and soldering them onto the ones from the new coil (or doing spade connectors). Just seems like it would be way too easy to do that which makes me think it might be wrong.
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:22 PM   #8
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffie226 View Post
I have a question about wiring the coil. I am in the middle of doing the Team Rush/Nutter all at once, and I was wondering about how to wire the coil. Is it as easy as cutting the wires from the old coil and soldering them onto the ones from the new coil (or doing spade connectors). Just seems like it would be way too easy to do that which makes me think it might be wrong.
Dear Tuffie,

Pretty much correct, two wires for the coil swap. The Pics above show a short jumper with connectors that will mate to the JEEP HARNESS, so you can keep the JeepHarness whole and swap back to Jeep Coil for emergency.

Just changing the JeepHaress connector to Ford E Coil connector is also a very good alternative.






Fred
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:24 PM   #9
tuffie226
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Awesome Fred...thanks for the heads up. I'll let y'all know how it turns out!!!
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:57 AM   #10
chadlow
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
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On your plug, which wire goes to the positive on the oem coil? I got a plug just like that from a taurus, but it has 2 green wires and 1 red. I just want to make sure I hook it up right.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:13 AM   #11
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Two Green Wires have come up in the past and have seen a pic of also. Just tape off the extra green wire and hook up as shown. Above it says green/ground and red/hot+ on our system. As i posted on your thread + - is marked inside the Ford E Coil connector housing.

Please stay on your thread with your questions, this one is good reference info, nice and short, and does not have a lot of junk on it.

Let us know how your TeamRush, Ford E Coil, CDI, Grounding work goes on your thread.

Regards,
Fred
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:16 AM   #12
sgtbookie
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Great write up Fred!

Moderators, have you ever considered a sticky thread for the TeamRush upgrade? Seems we have several really good posts on here, and we receive a lot of the same questions daily on this particular mod.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:48 AM   #13
Fjguercio
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burnsville, MN
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Dear Sgtbookie,

Thank you very much, this thread has been looked at 1050 times so far. Mounts the Ford E coil in stock location and looks STOCK!!!

I also added a short ground wire from the BLOCK GROUND BOLT to the COIL MOUNT BOLT to ground the head. Very clean add and grounds the head for better spark as JeepHammer suggests.

The TEAMRUSH by JeepHammer is great up grade!!!!

Best regards,
Fred
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