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post #1 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
143hc
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 218
TF999 ???'s

I'm sealing up a leaky tranny. Oil is coming out the shifter seal and I'm wondering how much trouble getting the old seal out is gonna be. Any tips? I'm thinking I might be needing a couple seal picks. What about the throttle sensor rod? It looks like it unbolts/bolts back since the adjustment is further up.
BTW here's some info on tf's
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmis...-tom-hand.html
I learned that since I put on a new carb I need to get my throttle sensor rod adjusted.
Wonder what the shift kits go for...
TIA!!


Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo , weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGears LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, Perf. Access. Years ago, 81 CJ7 304, 33's
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 06:21 PM
jeepskate
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Been a while since I messed with one, but I think you may have to drop the pan and valve body in order to replace the seal. Good time to do a shift kit. Trans-Go is generally accepted as the best...should be able to pick up a jobber's kit (no fancy colored box, video tape, or selection of stage at install...you have the buy the stage specific kit) for under $100 easily off Ebay. Also a good time to install a Mopar re-usable pan gasket and a deeper pan. You most definitely need to properly adjust the throttle rod or you'll fry that trans in short order.

'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
http://www.jeepskate.net
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
143hc
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Thanks John. I just did the pan but did use a Mopar gasket...oh well. I know next to nothing about at's. Does the valve body unbolt easy? I have nightmares about checkballs falling out all over! I read up on adjusting the throttle linkage awhile back, but that might be out of my league. Might be calling the Jeep shop...
crap...

Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo , weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGears LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, Perf. Access. Years ago, 81 CJ7 304, 33's
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 07:54 PM
jeepskate
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Who's John? Valve body is held in with a handful of long bolts...all of the checkballs are encased inside it, so they won't fall out...don't have to worry about those unless you do the shift kit yourself. The linkage adjustment is easy...loosen the bolts, take the slack out of the linkage, tighten the bolts, take it for a test drive, tweak as needed.

'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
http://www.jeepskate.net
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 07:54 PM
CJ Chet
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By your signature it looks like you've got a Weber. I have the same setup (Weber 38/TF999) and I used a kickdown cable from Lokar. Works like a champ. Also got rid of the linkages and ran the throttle cable right to the carb.

'86 CJ7
'04 AEV RUBICON
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-02-2007, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
143hc
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Thanks for the help guys. Sorry jeepskate, thought someone called you John before.

Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo , weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGears LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, Perf. Access. Years ago, 81 CJ7 304, 33's
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-03-2007, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
143hc
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Location: Atlanta
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Ok, got the shaft seal in after it spent a little time in the freezer. I lowered the valve body a little and tapped the old seal up from underneath. I also took the slack out of the linkage. I see where it pushes a plunger in the valve body. Is this the kickdown? There was about a 3/8" gap between the linkage and the plunger so I set it at about 1/8", just guessing. Any suggestions?

TIA

Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo , weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGears LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, Perf. Access. Years ago, 81 CJ7 304, 33's
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-04-2007, 05:55 PM
jeepskate
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Just follow the documented procedure...I know I've seen it on the web several times out of the ATSG book.

'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff.
http://www.jeepskate.net
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-08-2007, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
143hc
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Location: Atlanta
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I had to pull the valve body after the ball and springs for the shifter detente came out. I got it put back together and can shift thru all the gears with the valve body out but when I bolt it all back up the shifter on the column is one off. It won't go into L1 and the neutral safety switch is in the Reverse position (between the contacts) when the shifter is in Park. I guess I can adjust the linkage but how does stuff like this happen when all that happens is unbolt/ bolt?

Now, 84 CJ7 Laredo , weber 38, 3.73's, Alloy 1pc., AuburnGears LS, hei/tfi, 2.5" BDS, Perf. Access. Years ago, 81 CJ7 304, 33's
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