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Unread 10-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #1
LSUtiger
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1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Shreveport, La.
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Temp/gas guage replacement ?

Has anyone replaced the guages with replacements from 4wd? They are different from mine. Is this why they say you have to replace both at the same time? The pic on their website shows the temp. guage being like mine but the gas guage looks like the one I recieved. Are there differences between years that are not listed?

I did not notice the difference untill I installed them!

The new guages are in the speedo. and they are correct in every other way except for the face.
I called 4wd on Sat. but I have to wait for a call back.

cimg1487.jpg   cimg1490.jpg  
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Unread 10-11-2009, 09:18 PM   #2
skidplate77
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Cj gauges

So happens I am in the midst of replacing my gauges too. My gas gauge is just like yours. I think that is only what is offered. The lettering will be just a little different than the originals. I got mine from Quadratec, and they are also Crown gauges. Both of my originals didn't work.
speedometer-gas-gauge-004.jpg   speedometer-gas-gauge-005.jpg  
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1977 Jeep CJ7 Renegade, 304 V8, Torque Flite 999 automatic, Dana 300, AMC 20, Dana 30 front, 30" X 9.50" tires, building it back to stock..
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Unread 10-12-2009, 04:32 AM   #3
John Strenk
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If either of you two want to send me your old gauges, I'll see if I can get them working.

Crown seem to be the better of the replacement gauges available.

I would suggest swapping dials if that is possible. there might be some differences in the needle stops though. I'll have to check. You could always print up new dials on a laser printer and slip them into place if you want to keep it authentic. Even copy your old dials on a color copier and cut them out and slip them in place.

If the gauge works, I would just keep what is there. Just think of all those other CJ owners that don't have working gauges.
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Unread 10-12-2009, 08:43 AM   #4
LSUtiger
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Thanks for the offer John. For now, I have a replacement speedo that I bought off of ebay that is working. After looking at the original stewart warner guages, it looks like the face comes off just like the speedo case. Since I have an extra, I think that I will try changing them around. Thanks for the idea.
Actually, I will install the speedo and see how they work first!
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Unread 11-08-2009, 09:18 AM   #5
Group_er
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hey guys, im continuisly having random intermittent fuel guage issues. I was wondering how you remove the face of the guage cluster? And get into the cluster, to allow me to remove the fuel guage individually?
Thanks guys!
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Unread 11-08-2009, 01:09 PM   #6
skidplate77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Group_er View Post
hey guys, im continuisly having random intermittent fuel guage issues. I was wondering how you remove the face of the guage cluster? And get into the cluster, to allow me to remove the fuel guage individually?
Thanks guys!
You'll have to take the whole speedometer out from behind the dash. It's held in by 4 studs (one at each corner) The chrome ring is crimpted in a few places to hold it onto the speedo case. You'll have to delicately unbend the crimpted metal to get the bezel off and the gauge glass...
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1977 Jeep CJ7 Renegade, 304 V8, Torque Flite 999 automatic, Dana 300, AMC 20, Dana 30 front, 30" X 9.50" tires, building it back to stock..
A new work in progress, and a new lease on life...
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Unread 11-09-2009, 08:36 AM   #7
Group_er
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thanks guys. Im going to try and make a abomination of a gauge cluster.
Im going to try and use the face and glass from the ****ty aftermarket cluster, and the housing and the fuel/temp gauges from the oem cluster,
I should have a clean almost new looking cluster with the proper decent actually working right calibratable oem fuel and temp guages. !
Ill let you know how it goes, hopefully some of the parks are interchangeable!
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Unread 12-02-2009, 01:50 PM   #8
Group_er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Group_er View Post
thanks guys. Im going to try and make a abomination of a gauge cluster.
Im going to try and use the face and glass from the ****ty aftermarket cluster, and the housing and the fuel/temp gauges from the oem cluster,
I should have a clean almost new looking cluster with the proper decent actually working right calibratable oem fuel and temp guages. !
Ill let you know how it goes, hopefully some of the parks are interchangeable!
Started the abomination this morning. So far so good, Ill let you know how it goes!
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Unread 12-02-2009, 01:57 PM   #9
Group_er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Group_er View Post
thanks guys. Im going to try and make a abomination of a gauge cluster.
Im going to try and use the face and glass from the ****ty aftermarket cluster, and the housing and the fuel/temp gauges from the oem cluster,
I should have a clean almost new looking cluster with the proper decent actually working right calibratable oem fuel and temp guages. !
Ill let you know how it goes, hopefully some of the parks are interchangeable!
Started the abomination this morning. So far so good, Ill let you know how it goes!
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Unread 12-03-2009, 05:59 AM   #10
John Strenk
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Take pictures...
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Unread 12-03-2009, 11:18 AM   #11
Group_er
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Its all In and working great!

I ended up using the OEM housing, glass,seal, black thing that holds the glass in, fuel and temp guages. I used the aftermarket face, and speedo assembly.
Now I have a great cluster with good actually working fuel and temp guages, I kept my speedo reading from my rebuild (2852klm) and It looks bran new with the aftermarket face. YEA WHO!!!!!
My fuel guage issues has been driving me crazy since the summer, when I put this thing on the road.

It took me 8 hours re and re. But SOOO worth it!
I will get pics when I get batteries for my camera!

Only thing that will need adjusting is the fuel guage stops. I know these quality oem guages are adjustable. Im sure john will speak up about which adjustment does what, and how much to turn it exc.
When I went to the gas station the fuel guage was reading between 1/4 and 1/2 (and it wasnt bouncing around!! YEA!!) (or blowing fuzes!!! YEA!!)
When I filled it up, it stopped nicly at the full line. The thing is, I only put 35 bucks in it, and its almost a hun to fill it. I think when the guage reads empty, I will still have a quarter tank left. Next time Im tearing the dash apart, I would like to try and fix this. Whats the steps all knowing john?

Thanks guys!!
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Unread 12-03-2009, 11:28 AM   #12
John Strenk
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Well might as well post this someplace:

Quote:
or those who need to have everything perfect. One final adjustment....
First lets have a look at the back of a typical OEM style Fuel gauge.

You probably never noticed the extra slots in the back but those are used for doing a calibration. They are actually quite clever in coming up with such a simple adjustment.
If you look inside an OEM gauge you will see two windings around two swperate bi-metalic strips. One is the often miss-labeled "Voltage Regulator" side and the other is for the needle or indicator movement.

As the windings heat up around the bi-metalis strip, one end of the strip will move. This free end is attached to the needle. The way the calibration works is there is a slot in the end of the needle were the pin on the end of the bi-metalicstrip fits. Depending upon the position of this pin in the slot determines how much the needle moves in relationship to the movement of BM strip. The closer the pin is to the pivot of the needle the greater the travel of the needle. THis is the Full Scale Adjustment. So if your gauge is not reading "Full" when the resitance is 10 ohms then you need to adjust the position of the pin.

THe other adjustment just sets the starting position of the needle or "Zero Adjustment" So if your gauge isn't reading empty when it's at 78 Ohms then you need to change this adjustment.
Note these adjustment are interrelated meaning that if you adjust the "Zero Point", then the needle might not reach "Full" so you will have to go back and re-adjust the "Full Scale" adjustment.
Start with the Zero Point first.
I attached the proper resistance (73 ohms) to the "S" terminal and ground and attached the power and ground leads.

I used 10-32 nuts and wire lugs to make the connection easier.
THen I adjusted the Zero point to read "E" as best I could using a flat bladed screwdriver. Then you replace the 73 ohm resistor with a 10 ohm resistor and adjust the FUll Scale adjustment. Note it might take a minuet for the needle to Stop moving so you might want to read a chapeter in your FSM while your waiting. . It also makes several jumps when going to "F". THis is normal.
Now the replacement gauges I have work a bit differently. Mine was quite bent inside and needed an adjustment. Maybe yours was knocked out of cal also.

The Zero and Full Scale adjustment are in one place. Put the screw driver in one slot and you can adjust the Zero Position. Turn the screw driver 90* and you can adjust the full scale movement. The pin and meedle mechanism is the same as the OEM guages. THe screw on the side is for adjusting the regulator. It has a funky screw so you don't accidentally mess up this adjustment.

Irregardless of how the adjustments work internally, the procedure is still the same as above. If you can't get the gauge to work properly after all this then I would recomend you send them back and get another set. THere have been some "Quality issues" with the vendor.
For more information on Gauges and stuff, Go here:
http://users.adelphia.net/~john.stre...QuickFacts.htm
There are a couple of stops right on the dial face also that acts as limits for the needle to travel.
needlelimits.jpg  

Last edited by John Strenk; 12-03-2009 at 11:40 AM..
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Unread 12-03-2009, 11:33 AM   #13
Group_er
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Great John. I will contact you whe I time comes!!
Thanks for all the help!
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Unread 12-03-2009, 02:19 PM   #14
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